mel152: did you get it off?

I'm doing mine now and a new-ish 800ft-lb IR wouldn't budge it.

For round two, I bought some cheap 1/2 extensions (20 inches or so) and a 1/2 breaker. I wonder if I should get 3/4 equipment instead. I like the fence post for a cheater bar. I will try again this weekend possibly.

 

I've got an 800lb IR and it didn't do it either.

1/2" worked for me.

I twisted about 180 deg and held it. After a short time, it snapped. I used all Craftsman tools except for the impact socket.

 

It probably would have been alot easier just getting someone at the dealership to do it. I paid $50 bucks for mine and it was done in 10 mins. Saved me alot of heartache and frustration!!

 

kragen online sells a 20 dollar special Honda crank pulley removal tool- no they dont have loaners
It is made to hold the pulley still and then you can easily remove the bolt-
On install - jam a prybar in the trans flywheel teeth- remove access panel under trans
There are 2 ways- direct toque mesure 181 foot pounds or iirc 60 ft lbs and x amount/degrees of rotation of the bolt from there- say 3/4 turn as example- see directions for exact details

 

Yes i know this thread is old. Im posting here because i was just at my local tuner shop and he used liquid wrench, and air impact gun, and torched it. And this bolt still hasnt moved. Should i proceed to a dealer? Or is it even worth it ruining the threads or snapping the bolt. Idk what lol.... I have the bolt sitting in pb blaster overnight and im going to head back tomorow.

 

What size of gun? What diameter of hose? What compressor?

If he doesn't have a 1" gun with a sufficient compressor, then all bets are off. Take it somewhere else that has a 1" gun and a good compressor.

 

With a long enough handle, you'll be able to put more torque on that thing than any impact gun. The tricky thing is positioning the tool...

 

Torch. The washer on the bolt can be a problem. Once you heat that bolt and washer up it will come off.

 

If you snap the bolt, well...

 

The guy at the shop used this thing with spiral coils that go around the bolt head. It was to the point of glowing orange. Im gonna try another shop tomorow and see if there guns stronger. The shop i first went to was a high end shop, my acura looked pathetic next to all those porches and a gtr. Either way the guy was suprised it wouldnt move.

 

You will need the damper pulley holding tool: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6357-schley-products-60100a.aspx or Amazon

See if you can adapt step 10 in this:
http://www.iammike.org/htmods/HowToR...-WaterPump.pdf

The document is from http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1908944

 

Here's how I got mine loose: (1) soak the bolt with PB Blaster and let it sit for 5 - 10 minutes; (2) Hit it with a strong 1/2 inch impact (I used HF Earthquake) for 30 seconds or more ( a couple of times); (3) hit it with an impact (dialed back to less than full force) trying to tighten bolt; (4) now reverse and hit it with an impact to loosen bolt and it should spin right off.

 

damn, that sucks even with the bolt red hot.

I was able to get mine off using the starter bump method.

I used a 6' (foot) long bar with some extensions and couldnt get it loose. The extensions would flex and i bent them 90 degrees.

 

All places are closed becus of the snow

 

Boom. The vibrations help the PB Blaster penetrate the threads.

 

heat up the bolt until its red hot then use the starter bump method.


That's how I've been able to get these crank bolts loose.

 

Finally got it off. Had a meineke blast it with a 3/4.

 

I took my entire pulley assembly off to change the crank seal, there was a fragile electronic sensor directly behind it, I'd be afraid this would start to have major issues if it was exposed to extreme heat. It's the angle-sensor that needs to be recalibrated when removing the pulley.

 

Ding, Ding, Ding!!!

Yeah, good point. Not sure how much heat the CPS can take or how much gets transferred to it when heating the crank pulley bolt.

But again, just go to a shop that has a big (1" or 3/4" with a professional compressor) and they'll be able to pop it off with ease, no heat needed. They can re-tighten it enough for the drive home and it will come off easily with a 1/2" gun or large ratchet/breaker bar.

 

I just used my impact I bought from Harbor Freight and had the same results as rodneyc77. Equiptment is key.

 

Me too. I tried the starter method, I tried ½ drive impact method, I tried heating it with a torch, I even broke a socket AND I broke the special tool (I got mine from advance auto for around $30)... As a last resort effort, I put a 6' cheater/breaker bar/pipe on it and finally it popped loose..! THANK GOODNESS!
Not an easy job, bujoint did boost my confidence once I Crunk it back up and everything was fine..