typeS219

So i am the original owner of my 2007 acura tl type s with 80,000 mile. MANUEL TRANNY. A couple years back there was a recall cause 3rd gear would sometimes pop out. so acura dealer fixed it and everything was good. recently got timimg belt, water pump, and oil pump replace cause i plan on running this thing to 200k miles. SO, i recently noticed oil leaking from underneath the car. i thought it was the oil pan, and it was not sealed correctly. i bought it to my mechanic, and he gave me bad news. my transmission is leaking oil. Has anyone had a problem like this? if so what was their plan of action? Once again this is a manuel transmission, any advise would be of great help!

thanks
Antonio

thoiboi

where is it leaking from? the mechanic should be able to tell you that. Is it the rear main seal?

TVL65

I have 160,000 on my 07' TLS. My Trans (AT) was working fine, started leaking last year but was only slight. Within the last few months it got worse, far worse, like fresh fluid on the pavement every time I parked. It's a shame because it was working perfectly fine. I researched online for used but for $800 I'm sure they were abused or probably had issues. There were rebuilt ones for $1500 + but I have no idea who rebuilt it and exactly what was done or if they were rebuilt correctly? I bit the bullet and had dealer install a re-manufactured Trans, For the trans & labor it came to $5200. BUT I know it was completely torn apart & rebuilt by qualified Techs. Its got a warranty from Acura for 3/36,000. There are Trans shops here in NJ that could have rebuilt it for probably $4,000 but I read horror stories online, like not standing behind their work and problems. Level 10 shop has many bad reviews. Eventually your leak will get much worse. BTW if you do the trans be sure to replace rear main seal too while in there. GOOD LUCK!

typeS219

so my mechanic does not work with transmissions. he is an honest guy and told me he does not want to take the chance of pulling it out. he said however is seems to be leaking from the front...i dont know what to do...i know an acura dealer will rape me..im just looking to see if anyone has endured a problem like this.

thoiboi

well you're going to have to be our eyes, we won't be able to tell you where the leak is from the internet. Take a look and see if it's a transmission line or the lines going to the radiator or something..


give us a bone here!

typeS219

I thought it would be that much. so i might have to sell my baby :''''''''''''''(

typeS219

im gonna have to give my mechanic a call and see if he could give me more detail....i wish i was more knowledgeable with thus stuff... sorry guys lol

nfnsquared

How much?

From your other posts, sounds like it may be a rear main seal leak. Have you every replaced your PCV valve? Do a search, might be a simple $25 fix....

typeS219

Honestly not that much...id say a couple drops a day(the siz of a quarter) id see on my driveway...so you think it might be rear main seal leak? Where is the exatcly located? Because i can see the oil coming from the front of the car...near the oil pan area

but just looked up pcv valve replacement..no i have never changed..but would that initiate some sort of leaking?

nfnsquared

Yes, if it's blocked or stuck shut causing over-pressurization of the crankcase.

Front of car? Not the main seal then. Check your front valve cover and below it.

Also could be oil pump (fairly common) or vtec solenoid.

Did your mechanic say it was transmission oil or engine oil?

Jackass

MT...there are no lines going anywhere.
My guess is it is the normal weeping of engine oil from either the oil pan, oil pump, or rear main seal. Mine has been "weeping" for several years that leaves nickel size spots randomly on my garage floor. Not nearly enough to worry about and spend money on. I will worry about it in about another 2 years when the next TB service comes due.

thoiboi

Shows how much i know about MT's

whitetiger5

Send some pics! If we can see where the oil is leaking from then we could provide you with some more accurate feedback as to where you should start looking.

It will certainly put your mind at ease to know more clearly what the issues (and the severity).

typeS219

will get some pics up soon...car is at the mechanic and will be getting back this weekend... thanks for the feedback guys

truonghthe

or you can sell the car to m8....

I would have other mechanic look at it before you conclude with the verdict that the transmission is leaking, per half take it to shop that specialize in transmission.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

My take on this thread and on your issue is the rear main seal is FAR more likely the culprit than the transmission. When you say the leak is coming from near the rear of the oil pan I start thinking that even more. The only manual transmission I've ever seen leaking from the main input shaft caused the clutch to start slipping; if your's isn't then that's just one more indication the rear main seal is the issue. FWIW, last year when I had my clutch replaced, I had the rear main done, not because it was leaking, but it was an extra $50 since the transmission was already out.

nfnsquared

Huh?

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

I interpreted Post #9 as meaning near the rear of the engine oil pan (meaning the left side of the engine between the engine and the bellhousing); I could be wrong, but until more definitive information comes our way, that stands as my current understanding of the issue.

t-rd

All you have to do to see if there is a rear main seal leak is to remove the inspection cover. 2, 10mm bolts. It's not a monumental task to identify that. It is a huge task to change out the rear main seal. So if you want to pay for that job, then might as well change out the clutch at the same time. If you want a new TL, that's fine also. $500 ~ $800 monthly loan for years. You pretty much pay for that same job in a matter of months, but for that new car, you have to pay that for YEARS.

typeS219

This is what the mechanic said...still havent got the car back but ill see if he can throw it on the lift and take some pics...he says the case looks like it might be cracked...fml

will keep you updated

nfnsquared

1. How does he know that an auto-adjusting clutch is worn and about to go?

2. That sucks if the case is leaking. I'd go back to the dealer and complain.

typeS219

sooo...here is an update....back in 2009 I had the 3rd gear recall done by Acura (manual transmission)...they did all the work and car ran nice....so this leaking im am getting is coming from my transmission case... when they took the tranny out and went to re-seal it, they did not do a good job. that seal is now leaking, causing trans fluid to leak...I called Acura and said nothing they can do...I have a friend that is a Honda mechanic and he was gonna take tranny out, replace clutch, and reseal for about 3grand...I think that is the route I am going to take..does anyone have any recommendations for preventive matienence when he takes the tranny out? real main seal etc??

thanks
Antonio

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Definitely rear main; while I was in there I did the pressure plate (highly-HIGHLY recommended) and performed the CDV delete. Also, with the transmission out and the engine supported from the bottom, replacing all six engine and tranny mounts becomes a relatively trivial job.

truonghthe

while you have the transmission out, IF its was mine TL I would replace the following original components


1. Steering rack and pinion (IF you found leak) with new inner and outer tire rods.

2. Three motor mounts and transmission mount(s).

3. Rear main seal and new flywheel with clutch.

typeS219

im sorry what is the cdv delete?

typeS219

def doing the rear main seal, flywheel, clutch, and solenoids
for the motor mounts and tranny mounts, should I check to see if there in good condition? or just change anyway?
I saw they where a bit expensive

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Clutch Delay Valve delete; this give crisper shifts when romping on it.

typeS219

gotcha....will mention this to my mechanic when we discuss the plan of action

truonghthe

change it, the motor mounts is notorious for getting busted around 80k-100k miles. Three mounts is the biggest ticket item but you will save a ton on labor since the motor has to come out anyway.

typeS219

Could you guys recommend a good brand of motor and tranny mounts? I see the oem are pretty expensive and found others a bit cheaper but dont know if there reputable

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

OEM. Period, full-stop, the end.

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

So your friend is only replacing the clutch and rear main seal....for $3k? Is he rebuilding the tranny too?

WDPanda

3 grand and friend don't go together.
You can get a used transmission installed for about a grand. Wtf.

typeS219

New clutch flywheel solnoids and both rear brake calipers...3k for parts and labor

typeS219

Parts and labor...flywheel itself is 900

i dont want a used tranny and someone’s problems

csmeance

You can go aftermarket for WAY cheaper....

typeS219

Gotcha

typeS219

I not going cheap on the transmission..was looking to save money other places such as the motor mounts but now its looking like all oem

Labor not cheap where i live(NY)

csmeance

I understand your hesitation, but folks are running aftermarket flywheel and clutch with no issues and pumping out some serious power though the rotrex kits.... Trying to save you some $$$ Innovate 75A new style engine are really good for performance seekers... OEM can be found way cheaper such as DENSO parts rather than buying the same DENSO part though the dealer. Also make sure that the case is good and not cracked, I've seen a cracked one in miami happen and spill fluid everywhere.

typeS219

I know i see the aftermarket clutch and flywheels out there but ive herd bad stories about them too. I just want to be safe cause i def dont want to have the tranny pulled out twice....as for the case, it is definitely not cracked, however leaking from the seam because the asshole from acura who did the recall didnt do it well....my clutch is in good condition, meaning it still grabs and doesn’t slip but i figured since its out, mind as well put a new one in to make this thing run to 200k