HELP! 8 Different CEL Codes... All 6 Cylinders Misfiring
11-09-2010, 09:14 AM
#43
And make sure you turn over the engine the same amount of times for each cylinder. Or else you'll get readings all over the place and that wouldn't be helpful at all.
I was also thinking...Just do 4 cranks per cylinder. 5 would be overkill.
On my engine when I did 4 cranks per cylinder I got in the 235ish psi range. So that should give you an idea of what to be looking for.
I was also thinking...Just do 4 cranks per cylinder. 5 would be overkill.
On my engine when I did 4 cranks per cylinder I got in the 235ish psi range. So that should give you an idea of what to be looking for.
11-11-2010, 12:03 PM
#44
Okay, compression results are in... Cyl#4 has high compression & Cyl#5 definitely has low compression. Could cylinder#4 be high due to Cyl#5?
1st/2nd Attempt
Cylinder 1
125/120
Cylinder 2
125/115
Cylinder 3
135/145
Cylinder 4
157/160
Cylinder 5
60/65
Cylinder 6
135/137
What could this mean... Bad piston ring, cylinder not sealing properly?
1st/2nd Attempt
Cylinder 1
125/120
Cylinder 2
125/115
Cylinder 3
135/145
Cylinder 4
157/160
Cylinder 5
60/65
Cylinder 6
135/137
What could this mean... Bad piston ring, cylinder not sealing properly?
11-15-2010, 01:33 PM
#46
How many times did you turn over the engine?
I ask because all the numbers look low. If you only did two or three cranks then I could understand. But that would still get you in the ballpark.
Cylinder 1,2,5 are below spec. 3 and 6 are barely there. 4 is the only one that looks decent.
Here is what you need to do...
1)Retest 1,2,5.
2)During the test check and see if the pressure holds. If the presure bleeds off then it is a problem with the valves.
3)Then put 5-7 drops of oil in the cylinder and repeat the test. If the pressure is higher than before then the problem is with the piston rings.
5 being low wouldn't really have anything to do with 4 being high. It would only matter if the head gasket was bad. But a bad head gasket usually has other symptoms like white or blue smoke from the exhaust. That happens because the water and oil passages aren't sealing between the head and block. That allows either coolant or oil to get into the cylinder. Coolant=white smoke. Oil = blue smoke. Also you would notice that your oil or coolant levels constantly need more added.
Notes and things to think about
The fact of the matter is that whatever happens the head gasket will get replaced anyways so it doesn't really matter if that is the problem. But I don't think it is.
If you replace the rings on one piston you might as well do them all.
Since the heads will be off any shop, especially acura, should do a leakdown test on a flowbench to check the valves. It might be a bent valve or just a bad valve seal.
Also can you tell us how your oil pressure is doing? If it's low then the problem will most likely be the piston rings or head gasket or both.
I ask because all the numbers look low. If you only did two or three cranks then I could understand. But that would still get you in the ballpark.
Cylinder 1,2,5 are below spec. 3 and 6 are barely there. 4 is the only one that looks decent.
Here is what you need to do...
1)Retest 1,2,5.
2)During the test check and see if the pressure holds. If the presure bleeds off then it is a problem with the valves.
3)Then put 5-7 drops of oil in the cylinder and repeat the test. If the pressure is higher than before then the problem is with the piston rings.
5 being low wouldn't really have anything to do with 4 being high. It would only matter if the head gasket was bad. But a bad head gasket usually has other symptoms like white or blue smoke from the exhaust. That happens because the water and oil passages aren't sealing between the head and block. That allows either coolant or oil to get into the cylinder. Coolant=white smoke. Oil = blue smoke. Also you would notice that your oil or coolant levels constantly need more added.
Notes and things to think about
The fact of the matter is that whatever happens the head gasket will get replaced anyways so it doesn't really matter if that is the problem. But I don't think it is.
If you replace the rings on one piston you might as well do them all.
Since the heads will be off any shop, especially acura, should do a leakdown test on a flowbench to check the valves. It might be a bent valve or just a bad valve seal.
Also can you tell us how your oil pressure is doing? If it's low then the problem will most likely be the piston rings or head gasket or both.
Last edited by NCTL05; 11-15-2010 at 01:36 PM.
05-19-2011, 06:54 PM
#49
09-13-2011, 02:48 PM
#51
1999 Acura 3.2 TL. Had a very similar problem. My OBDII reader gave me p0302, p0305, and p0306. as well as p0300. There was a P1399 pending also. I replaced coil 6 and reset the codes. For a bit, only saw the p0302 and p0305. Then , got p0302, p0303, and p0305. Talked to a parts guy at Oreilly, had 2 more coils. Thought I might try'em so I bought them. So, long story short. After MUCH pittering around and changing the 'easiest to get at' coils. I realized by putting several posts and convesations together that I only had 1 bad coil, and it was coil 2. Swapped one of the new ones into cylinder 2. Put one of the good ones that I took off back into 5. Reset codes. Runs perfect. It apparently SHOULD be the first cylinder (in firing order, very important) that shows up on the codes. That is, my codes showed cylinders 2,5, and 6. Then 2,4,and 5. Then various others, but always 2. The firing order is 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, and 6. The common thing was always 2 and 5. 2 was the problem, and 5 was right after it, getting a latent effect of the cylinder 2 misfire. The others occurred randomly for the same reason. So it answers the question that alot of people with this issue ask, "why did 2.. n things break at once???". They didn't. They're just appear broken by association. This post might not be timely. Hopefully it might give someone reading it later some ideas.
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06-11-2013, 05:42 PM
#54
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It is not usually the sensor...
I'd like to share my experience with repetitive P2195 and P2197 codes along with intermittent (every 3-6 months) P300X codes popping up. I had each and every code pop sometimes P3000-P3006, other times it would just be a few cylinders.
Many trips to auto zone to pull the codes prompted me to buy my own OBD2 scanner... Best $17 I ever spent on new egg.com. This made it much easier to check, confirm repeat codes triggered, and clear them if necessary. The issue I had is that the codes would trip and after 3-4 drive cycles the CEL would turn off on its own. For this reason I knew it was an intermittent issue and kept tracking it on my own.
After dealing with this for about 1-1.5 years I was under the hood again doing a routine K&N air filter removal, cleaning, and re-installation. This time I found it easier to remove the air flow tube between the air box and throttle body. To my surprise I found it was almost completely separated/torn right where it connects to the throttle body. There is a hose clamp there and by poor design it clamps down the rubber hose just past a bump/ridge on the throttle body housing (which helps it stay on). Since this ridge is there and the clamp needs to be tight, continued weathering over time causes them to tear. I was able to confirm this with my local Acura dealer in Boulder, CO. The parts manager said that he sees the same issue I had frequently and keeps the replacements in stock because of it.
Once replaced I haven't tripped a single CEL code in 2 weeks or more.
Many trips to auto zone to pull the codes prompted me to buy my own OBD2 scanner... Best $17 I ever spent on new egg.com. This made it much easier to check, confirm repeat codes triggered, and clear them if necessary. The issue I had is that the codes would trip and after 3-4 drive cycles the CEL would turn off on its own. For this reason I knew it was an intermittent issue and kept tracking it on my own.
After dealing with this for about 1-1.5 years I was under the hood again doing a routine K&N air filter removal, cleaning, and re-installation. This time I found it easier to remove the air flow tube between the air box and throttle body. To my surprise I found it was almost completely separated/torn right where it connects to the throttle body. There is a hose clamp there and by poor design it clamps down the rubber hose just past a bump/ridge on the throttle body housing (which helps it stay on). Since this ridge is there and the clamp needs to be tight, continued weathering over time causes them to tear. I was able to confirm this with my local Acura dealer in Boulder, CO. The parts manager said that he sees the same issue I had frequently and keeps the replacements in stock because of it.
Once replaced I haven't tripped a single CEL code in 2 weeks or more.
06-11-2013, 05:47 PM
#55
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Join Date: May 2011
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Also keep in mind there is many other points at which additional air could sneak into the system and also trip "stuck lean" codes. Once the MAF is detecting nonsense and getting false/poor signals from other sensors it can cause the misfires.
Learned the above info from a knowledgable and certified mechanic lady named "Red" (yes she has red hair) from my local AutoZone in Broomfield, CO.
Learned the above info from a knowledgable and certified mechanic lady named "Red" (yes she has red hair) from my local AutoZone in Broomfield, CO.
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