Hi ziners !

I would like some feedback from does who have change to XLR8 Motor mounts or from the same Excelerate.

Ok so i had the rear and side mount gone but the front was ok so bought the XLR8 75A to replace my oem. I change all 3 mount using some DIY's (it was a b*tch). After i change the mounts and turn on the car i noticed a vibration, it vibrates when i turn the lights on to, i check the engine and it didn't move wen changin from R to D or so, but wen the car is iddle on D or R the cabine has a heavy vibration but on Neutral it dont vibrate that much. Good thing is the car has improved when driving. I want to know if i did something wrong ? Or this is normal and will take time to go ? Also with the oem mount wen i change from P to R it had some clunk and after i change it still sound.

I hope this is normal or anything i could do to make it better. Thanks.

 

Have you looked at upper transmission mount?

 

Didnt check, but it didn't have that vibration with the oem mount.

 

what did you expect with poly mounts? There vibration and it worst at park/idle. When you drive around it gets better.

That is just the nature of stiffer mount. I suggest you put the OEM rear mount back on to help with the vibration.

 

at stops/idle you'll feel like in massage seat, cruising around you can hardly tell difference between OE & aftermarket (I'm running innovative mounts)

 

Well first off, you shouldn't have went with 75A mounts as that bushing is specified more for track settings. You should went with the 62A mounts for a nice daily street setup.

I have the 62A mounts, but I purposely did not install the rear mount as that is pretty much where all the vibrations come from. I have XLR8 front and side, with OEM rear. I have zero vibrations, even when the A/C is on.

 

Maybe I should have gotten XLR8 mounts

 

the vibrations are normal. This is what I warn ppl about when installing the stiff aftermarket mounts...especially on an automatic....most ppl dont realize what they are in for.
If you must go aftermarket, get the softest durometer ones and get front and side only

 

I went xlr8 mounts all around with 62 durometer and the vibrations were horrible with the AC on. I put the OEM rear back on and kept xlr8 in the front and side, and everything is all good now!

It's by far the hardest one to put back on, but switch the rear back to oem. That vacuum line is a pain in the butt to reinstall!

 

I did the same thing no difference from stock mounts as far a vibration is concerned. Car wheel hop is completely gone. 😀

 

My rear was gone i didnt know how it did the job it was pretty bad.

 

I super LOL'd.

went from soft mounts to OVERLY stiff mounts and wants to know why there's vibration.

 

It'll settle down after a couple thousand miles / couple months, when they break in.

Biggest vibrations are when the A/C is on.

Mine is very minor now, hardly noticeable. 1st day steering wheel and whole dashboard rattled. Good now.

 

I very recently put XLR8 mounts on the passenger side, and the nose of the vehicle. I ordered the softest mounts (62).

As has been stated, the vibration is significant when the vehicle is in gear at a stop. In park/neutral it's not so bad. If you have interior panels prone to rattling, you will quickly discover where they are.

I'm glad I put them in though; they look like they'll last.

 

A few things to keep in mind. First, here are some tips for installation.

INSTALLATION TIPS FOR XLR8 MOTOR MOUNTS

• All XLR8 mounts are direct replacement but keep in mind your original mounts are probably sagging, defective or leaking so as you install each mount you may have to make adjustments in order to accommodate for a newer mount.
• When installing the motor mounts install ONE mount at a time.
• Make sure to support the motor when removing the original mount so that it will be easier to align the holes properly when installing the XLR8 mount.
• Once the mount is installed do not tighten any hardware done until all the motor mounts have been replaced. Basically, do your final few turns of all bolts once all three mounts are in place.
• Tighten the bolts that hold the mount in place to factory spec. Tighten the center bolt that goes through the mount to 35-40 ft lbs of tq.
• Re-locate any grounds removed to an alternate location.
• Plug any vacuum lines by following the line back to the source and installing a vacuum cap or by plugging the end of the vacuum line.
• The bushing inside the mount is made out of polyurethane so it is firmer and more durable than the original rubber mount. There may be some minor vibrations in the cabin at first but the bushing will soften up a bit as they break in over a few hundred miles.

The reason I post this is people tend to over-tighten that center bolt causing additional vibration. Also, the polyurethane does have a break in period. So the vibrations will subside over time. It would also be good to make sure there are no loose bolts/nuts or other components on the vehicle since you mentioned a clunk. And any other defective mounts or bushings could be adding to the vibration.

 

fective....

So the center needs to be loosened? Or just a bit tight?

 

Tighten the bolts that hold the mount in place to factory spec. Tighten the center bolt that goes through the mount to 35-40 ft lbs of tq.

 

Thats were in lost. Center of the mount or the bolt that goes from the mount to the engine? Thanks

 

I rode in a 75A 6MT before, the vibrations was negligible. Those mounts were well broken in though.

 

6mt makes a huge difference in neutral idling. not even comparable to the amount of vibration you'd get in D when idling for an auto. ppl who do this to an auto usually start making a habit of putting the car in Neutral when idling to help with this

 

Yeah a 6MT spends more time in neutral, so the vibration was totally tolerable. Dunnon how its like with AC on in a 6MT, I guess it would vib lots when getting into gear.