Got OEM Fogs? Need some help on the wiring!
#1
Fearless DIY Guy
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Got OEM Fogs? Need some help on the wiring!
Amongst other things, the foglight install is pending to occur this weekend, although I will be goddamned if the garage has a clear cut description on how this is accomplished. I have found bits and peices of threads, but nothing clear cut.
Anyway, that being said, is there anyone whom has installed their fogs that can help point me what to connect where?
Anyway, that being said, is there anyone whom has installed their fogs that can help point me what to connect where?
#6
I just did lilsid112's fog light install. He directed me to see if I could help out...my thoughts were the same as above, it would have taken me much longer to figure out all the OEM wiring than to just run my own aftermarket relays, especially being that I install audio/electronics for a living. My brain couldn't wrap itself around that OEM harness, but I had the switch and my aftermarket relays figured out in 2 minutes, especially since I was putting HID's in at the same time, so the headlight plugs in the OEM harness would have to go to ballasts instead of the bulbs.
So, I decided first to figure out the switch, and run everything else on my own. The first thing was that Red and Red/black at the switch are not needed. The factory wiring diagrams I have access to say that these go to the interior lights system...whether that means they light up a bulb in the cluster that tells you your fogs or on, or what they do I'm not sure, but the less complicated this install the better.
The blue wire at the switch is the 12volt input to it. So, if you want your fogs to have the ability to come on whenever the key is on, hook this up to an ignition source. If you want them to only be able to come on when the parking lights are turned on, hook blue up to the positive parking lights wire (this is what I did). The switch is still primary, so this doesn't mean the fogs will come on automatically when the key is turned (or parking lights engaged) unless you leave the switch in the engaged position.
The black wire coming out of the switch goes to ground. That only leaves the green coming out of the switch, which is +12v out when you push the actual switch to engage it. Doing this will also light up the little green light on the switch itself.
I ran that green wire to trigger external relays, which sent battery power to the HID ballasts. The bumper was already pulled off, so I mounted the two relays behind it. If you are unfamiliar with relays, heres what I did:
Green wire from the switch went to the #85 spot of BOTH relays.
86: Ground
87: +Battery input
30: +12v output; obviously the 30 from one relay powering one of the lights and the 30 from the other relay powering the other.
If your relays have an 87a terminal, it isn't used.
If you aren't doing HID's and are following what I did, you can still use part of the factory harness that comes in the kit. The two pin plugs with (1)blue/yellow and (1)black wire are good...if I wasn't doing HID's I would have probably used this harness to run over to my relays behind the bumper, and cut this harness to the length I needed at this spot where my relays were. The two blue/yellow wires would go to the two #30 outputs of the relays, and the black wires to ground. But in my case, doing HID's at the same time and having ballast wiring on top of it all (I always run battery power to HID installs because they sometimes pop headlight fuses) it was easier to just run my own wiring and call it a day.
Keep in mind that working at a stereo shop, I had plenty of extra relays, spare wire, connectors, ring terminals, etc on hand. Each relay got a 16 gauge wire going straight to the battery with a fuse in line, a ground wire, a 16 gauge out from each relay to its corresponding light (or ballast), in addition to the wire i ran from the switch's output to the relays. I also used a bunch of wire loom which we had on hand, and of course, the two relays. So, if you are doing this install this way, that gives you a general idea of what you'll need.
Hope that helps someone out.
-Kevin
So, I decided first to figure out the switch, and run everything else on my own. The first thing was that Red and Red/black at the switch are not needed. The factory wiring diagrams I have access to say that these go to the interior lights system...whether that means they light up a bulb in the cluster that tells you your fogs or on, or what they do I'm not sure, but the less complicated this install the better.
The blue wire at the switch is the 12volt input to it. So, if you want your fogs to have the ability to come on whenever the key is on, hook this up to an ignition source. If you want them to only be able to come on when the parking lights are turned on, hook blue up to the positive parking lights wire (this is what I did). The switch is still primary, so this doesn't mean the fogs will come on automatically when the key is turned (or parking lights engaged) unless you leave the switch in the engaged position.
The black wire coming out of the switch goes to ground. That only leaves the green coming out of the switch, which is +12v out when you push the actual switch to engage it. Doing this will also light up the little green light on the switch itself.
I ran that green wire to trigger external relays, which sent battery power to the HID ballasts. The bumper was already pulled off, so I mounted the two relays behind it. If you are unfamiliar with relays, heres what I did:
Green wire from the switch went to the #85 spot of BOTH relays.
86: Ground
87: +Battery input
30: +12v output; obviously the 30 from one relay powering one of the lights and the 30 from the other relay powering the other.
If your relays have an 87a terminal, it isn't used.
If you aren't doing HID's and are following what I did, you can still use part of the factory harness that comes in the kit. The two pin plugs with (1)blue/yellow and (1)black wire are good...if I wasn't doing HID's I would have probably used this harness to run over to my relays behind the bumper, and cut this harness to the length I needed at this spot where my relays were. The two blue/yellow wires would go to the two #30 outputs of the relays, and the black wires to ground. But in my case, doing HID's at the same time and having ballast wiring on top of it all (I always run battery power to HID installs because they sometimes pop headlight fuses) it was easier to just run my own wiring and call it a day.
Keep in mind that working at a stereo shop, I had plenty of extra relays, spare wire, connectors, ring terminals, etc on hand. Each relay got a 16 gauge wire going straight to the battery with a fuse in line, a ground wire, a 16 gauge out from each relay to its corresponding light (or ballast), in addition to the wire i ran from the switch's output to the relays. I also used a bunch of wire loom which we had on hand, and of course, the two relays. So, if you are doing this install this way, that gives you a general idea of what you'll need.
Hope that helps someone out.
-Kevin
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#12
LOL, small world that there are maxima guys over here, and I hate to burst the bubble, but I am not Metal Maxima. I have this same screen name on every forum I'm on.
I did follow a few of his projects on the .org; I am still on the .org and I was pretty heavy into the audio section over there a couple years back, but a few key members had a serious attitude problem and I haven't checked back in a long time, although I still talk to Don (Pearl96Max, the audio moderator) every so often. There was nothing new about my 5th gen that I needed to gain from the forum in any case, so it was no big loss. Plus, when you do this stuff for a living, you don't feel the need to post all your projects on the forums because they are a daily occurrence which is why I stay pretty low key on most forums, simply posting to help out if I know the answer to a question or whatnot.
Even though I'm still rocking my 5th gen (god knows how many systems I've swapped out in it by now)......having worked on lilsid112's car pretty extensively now and having done a few other fairly serious systems in them through the shop, I will say I do enjoy the TL, both to drive and to work on.
Other than this thread, I doubt I'll be checking this forum too often but if theres anything you guys ever need done in the Tampa area, give me a shout.
kpr10is@hotmail.com
Shop: MCOR Automotive, Lutz FL. (813) 362-5454.
-Kevin
I did follow a few of his projects on the .org; I am still on the .org and I was pretty heavy into the audio section over there a couple years back, but a few key members had a serious attitude problem and I haven't checked back in a long time, although I still talk to Don (Pearl96Max, the audio moderator) every so often. There was nothing new about my 5th gen that I needed to gain from the forum in any case, so it was no big loss. Plus, when you do this stuff for a living, you don't feel the need to post all your projects on the forums because they are a daily occurrence which is why I stay pretty low key on most forums, simply posting to help out if I know the answer to a question or whatnot.
Even though I'm still rocking my 5th gen (god knows how many systems I've swapped out in it by now)......having worked on lilsid112's car pretty extensively now and having done a few other fairly serious systems in them through the shop, I will say I do enjoy the TL, both to drive and to work on.
Other than this thread, I doubt I'll be checking this forum too often but if theres anything you guys ever need done in the Tampa area, give me a shout.
kpr10is@hotmail.com
Shop: MCOR Automotive, Lutz FL. (813) 362-5454.
-Kevin
#13
LOL, small world that there are maxima guys over here, and I hate to burst the bubble, but I am not Metal Maxima. I have this same screen name on every forum I'm on.
I did follow a few of his projects on the .org; I am still on the .org and I was pretty heavy into the audio section over there a couple years back, but a few key members had a serious attitude problem and I haven't checked back in a long time, although I still talk to Don (Pearl96Max, the audio moderator) every so often. There was nothing new about my 5th gen that I needed to gain from the forum in any case, so it was no big loss. Plus, when you do this stuff for a living, you don't feel the need to post all your projects on the forums because they are a daily occurrence which is why I stay pretty low key on most forums, simply posting to help out if I know the answer to a question or whatnot.
Even though I'm still rocking my 5th gen (god knows how many systems I've swapped out in it by now)......having worked on lilsid112's car pretty extensively now and having done a few other fairly serious systems in them through the shop, I will say I do enjoy the TL, both to drive and to work on.
Other than this thread, I doubt I'll be checking this forum too often but if theres anything you guys ever need done in the Tampa area, give me a shout.
kpr10is@hotmail.com
Shop: MCOR Automotive, Lutz FL. (813) 362-5454.
-Kevin
I did follow a few of his projects on the .org; I am still on the .org and I was pretty heavy into the audio section over there a couple years back, but a few key members had a serious attitude problem and I haven't checked back in a long time, although I still talk to Don (Pearl96Max, the audio moderator) every so often. There was nothing new about my 5th gen that I needed to gain from the forum in any case, so it was no big loss. Plus, when you do this stuff for a living, you don't feel the need to post all your projects on the forums because they are a daily occurrence which is why I stay pretty low key on most forums, simply posting to help out if I know the answer to a question or whatnot.
Even though I'm still rocking my 5th gen (god knows how many systems I've swapped out in it by now)......having worked on lilsid112's car pretty extensively now and having done a few other fairly serious systems in them through the shop, I will say I do enjoy the TL, both to drive and to work on.
Other than this thread, I doubt I'll be checking this forum too often but if theres anything you guys ever need done in the Tampa area, give me a shout.
kpr10is@hotmail.com
Shop: MCOR Automotive, Lutz FL. (813) 362-5454.
-Kevin
#18
Fearless DIY Guy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
I'm going to wire this up tomorrow, hopefully your guide will get this done!
#19
Fearless DIY Guy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Worked perfectly. Thanks!!!
POI: On the TL, the illumination wire supplying power to the lights in panels is almost ALWAYS red w/ a black stripe and silver banding...for whatever reason, that light will NOT illuminate the button; you will need to pat a separate lead for the button itself to light.
POI: On the TL, the illumination wire supplying power to the lights in panels is almost ALWAYS red w/ a black stripe and silver banding...for whatever reason, that light will NOT illuminate the button; you will need to pat a separate lead for the button itself to light.
#20
ScoobyZINE
iTrader: (7)
POI: On the TL, the illumination wire supplying power to the lights in panels is almost ALWAYS red w/ a black stripe and silver banding...for whatever reason, that light will NOT illuminate the button; you will need to pat a separate lead for the button itself to light.
#21
BUMP! guys we were trying to install my ebay accord fogs into my 06 3g and ran into wiring issues. i dont have a pic of my harness that i got but we have 2 relays and dont really know what to do with them and how it goes...Can some one draw out a diagram of how to do the wiring and if not anyone know where to get another set of wiring harness and a new oem switch. the one i got doesnt really sit flush at all.
thanks guys
thanks guys
#22
Fearless DIY Guy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
It's so goddamn easy, now...check it:
SWITCH: Blue to power source (switched, constant, whatever), black to ground, green routes through firewall
FOGS: Green connects through firewall to green, black to ground, then I think it's just the blue/red gets a fused connection to the battery.
Easy squeezy
SWITCH: Blue to power source (switched, constant, whatever), black to ground, green routes through firewall
FOGS: Green connects through firewall to green, black to ground, then I think it's just the blue/red gets a fused connection to the battery.
Easy squeezy
#23
It's so goddamn easy, now...check it:
SWITCH: Blue to power source (switched, constant, whatever), black to ground, green routes through firewall
FOGS: Green connects through firewall to green, black to ground, then I think it's just the blue/red gets a fused connection to the battery.
Easy squeezy
SWITCH: Blue to power source (switched, constant, whatever), black to ground, green routes through firewall
FOGS: Green connects through firewall to green, black to ground, then I think it's just the blue/red gets a fused connection to the battery.
Easy squeezy
#25
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Haha, I remember when I wired up my fogs...I had the OEM fog harness and an aftermarket one from Ebay from an accord kit. I stripped the entire OEM harness down and it still confused the hell out of me. So I said screw it and used the ebay one and had it installed within 15mins. Works like a charm.
#29
Former Sponsor
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I also sell OEM accord kits..I can wire them up as well before I send them out..
#30
Cruisin'
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ok...question...
See the that link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180939151974...84.m1497.l2649
I just bought this on ebay and what I want is the wire from that button thru to the fog light at bottom front bumper.
- Could you do this for me?
- Do you ship to Quebec, Canada?
- How it cost to me with the shipping?
- Could I pay by PayPal?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180939151974...84.m1497.l2649
I just bought this on ebay and what I want is the wire from that button thru to the fog light at bottom front bumper.
- Could you do this for me?
- Do you ship to Quebec, Canada?
- How it cost to me with the shipping?
- Could I pay by PayPal?
#31
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (18)
See the that link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180939151974...84.m1497.l2649
I just bought this on ebay and what I want is the wire from that button thru to the fog light at bottom front bumper.
- Could you do this for me?
- Do you ship to Quebec, Canada?
- How it cost to me with the shipping?
- Could I pay by PayPal?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180939151974...84.m1497.l2649
I just bought this on ebay and what I want is the wire from that button thru to the fog light at bottom front bumper.
- Could you do this for me?
- Do you ship to Quebec, Canada?
- How it cost to me with the shipping?
- Could I pay by PayPal?
Thats a civic button, not accord so the accord switches I believe won't fit/line up..
I can get you the fog wiring harness/switch and switch harness (everything needed) without fog lights as well...
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