Log in to ANY of the bigger online parts places (ex: www.hondapartsnow.com), and take a look at their online parts diagrams - they have all of the parts numbers/assy drawings right there and you can print them off for future reference.

-2po

 

I would recommend checking out the Official Service Manual from www.helminc.com. They have very good detailed descriptions/drawings/photos of what to do, where it is, and how it works.

Any one actuator works by applying 12 Volts to the BOTTOM electrical connector (the one with TWO wires). It will lock with the polarity applied one way +/-, then the internal motor will run in reverse (to unlock) when the polarity of these two wires is reversed. The aforementioned Official Manual has sequential test procedures for all of this so that you are not chasing your tail, guessing, and wasting money/time on unecessary parts. For example: It shows you exactly where the little 'dot' marks are on the bottom edge that indicate the location of the three hidden snap retainers that you must release when removing the door panel. You (at least 'I') would never even know that those were there or what they are for without a little basic info...-money well spent IMHO. It will pay for itself in full on one job, and you will still have it for all of your future adventures - resell it later on eBay when you sell car or with car.

BTW: I changed out the passenger side actuator yesterday. Afterwards I cracked open the old actuator to see why it had failed - the internal motor was all rusted up, so it appears that WATER/MOISTURE is getting into these actuators through the seam where the two shell halves meet. I WOULD ADVISE ANYONE TO RUN A BEAD OF SILICONE OVER THE NEW PARTS SEAM TO 'HELP' SEAL IT BETTER AND GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR NEW PART/ LABOR EFFORTS.

 

Awesome write up...replaced front passenger door actuator and fixed problem...Thank you good sir...!...

 

my rear driver side is making a squeaking sound when I lock my doors.

do you guys think it's the relay or the actuator?

 

I just replaced my right rear door lock actuator and wanted to share some information I learned.
I ordered my actuator from Ebay $17. Not bad and thanks for all the help on here, I can do this and save a lot of $$$.
Well I removed the bad one and the new one wouldn't fit onto the lock mechanism.
I did some research and a lot of the Ebay sellers are saying that both front/rear are the same. Not so fast or easy. It seems Honda has for some reason made the lever arm on the rear and front actuators different and they are not interchangeable. And the ugly part about this is the darn rear actuator is around $70-$80 more than the front one.
Well I figured out the only difference was the lever arm. So I took my roto tool and very carefully cut the old lever arm off each actuator and then plastic welded the old to new actuator with a soldering iron. Installed and it works great.
I hope this helps someone in a pinch or if you were just curious as to why the cost is so different.
Thanks again for all the info on here!

 

^Nice first post! Thanks for the info! Always nice to hear people's finds/fixes! No pics of the cutting/plastic welding?

Welcome to Azine!

 

As a new member I don't believe I'm allowed to add photos. But I will add that the original (green) lever from the rear lock actuator was very easy to cut and remove. The newer Dorman lever was not and therefore it would not be reusable. That's okay because I didn't need it and actually used part of it as filler when welding the original lever onto the new actuator. A very doable job to save on the extra cost for the rear actuator. You will need a rotary tool with small cutting wheel and a soldering iron. Be patient and careful and it's not that difficult.

 

Nice DIY! Thanks man. Just replaced passenger front and driver rear.

 

This is a great tip and I am going to try it as my rear passenger actuator is out and I didn't want to drop 80 bucks on one!

Thanks for the tip!

 

I can confirm everything ravenjim said and this was a fantastic help. I saved $60 by purchasing the $20 front actuator instead of the $80 rear. The green lever arm popped right off the OEM bad actuator and I used my dremel to cut off the arm on the new actuator.

Interestingly, the old OEM front actuator I also had popped right off too. Only the Dorman seems to be solid to the actuator. Instead of using a soldering iron and melting it, I used some cyanoacrylate (model plastic adhesive) and it set in 5 seconds.

 

What I did was similar to others but I don't have a plastic welder. I was able to pry off the locking arm off my old one. (Pictured here). I then took the arm off my new one which was made for the front door and put the oem one on. You will notice the arm attaches to a rectangle shape piece so no need to worry about it rotating freely. I then put some glue on it to make sure it stays put. I bought my new actuator on eBay for $10.50

 

Meant to post this picture.



On the left is for the front door and on the right is for the rear door.

 

I am running into some trouble, there are 3 screws. first one came out easily and other is stuck. end up stripping 2 of them, now what do I do? leave it or drill it?

 

Note: When ordering parts...this part number is for the LEFT (driver's side) actuator. The write up is for the Right (passenger side) actuator.

Might save you some time when ordering (the wrong) part.

 

So I decided to tackle my pass side door today. I'm almost done, I'm just having one hell of a time getting to cable and tab (connects to the outside door handle) into the crescent shaped slot. Ant tips? I've been trying to force it in with the end of a flat head but I don't want to break anything.

Ps for the three screws that people are stripping; get yourself a impact driver. Worked great and I'm always stripping screws.

Draper 6 Piece Impact Screwdriver Set 81519 | eBay

 

Never mind. In case anyone else had the same issue, I used a dremel with a grinding bit to decrease the radius of the blue end of the clip. After that, only moderate force was needed to push the clip in.

 

Thanks for the pics and procedures on how to replace a 2005 acura tl door actuator. Really helps

 

make sure the 3 door screws are torqued to specs on reinstall, i think 20ft lbs,

 

First of all thank you Hifiveo and all who contributed to this thread.

I replaced my 2004 Acura TL (6spd manual) drivers side front door lock actuator today. The actuator itself was $22.86 shipped on amazon (part #72155-SDA-A01). As some others I cursed at the 3 screws, as one came out just fine, but the other 2 stripped. I tried torque screw driver, it didn't help. Then I drilled into them and after used reverse drill bit to get them out. I had another step that is not mentioned in this diy:

Before taking out 3 screws in the step:
"Disconnect the brown clip, it goes towards the inside of car. remove the metal rod from hole and let hang."
(mine was actually black) BUT I had another one of these clips and metal rods on the other side of the actuator (total of 2). So i took the first one out, then 3 screws, and when I tried to take out the whole thing, it would not go. So I twisted it to the side, and unhooked the second clip and second metal rod through the small hole where door lock used to be. Hooking this back up was tricky too, but after 20 minutes i finally got it.

Some people asked for part number for the screws: it is 90103-S7S-003, cost me $1.40 each at dealership. They come in pack of 3 (so $4.20 total) but the guy was kind enough to sell me just two i needed.

Thanks again, and good luck to anyone who tries this.

 

I'm confused now. My back left door lock does not function. Do I need to replace that driver's door actuator? The door will open, just have to lock/unlock by Puchong or pulling the nipple.(lol...Nipple)
please help!

 

no, you replace the door lock actuator that's broken.. not the drivers door

 

Ok I was skeptical of the comments above. Is it same part number? All I'm finding is l fr door assembly.

 

is the back left door actuator the same size all around or does that one have a particular part number. Would be nice to know, thanks!

 

The rear doors "look" the same except for a small plastic piece that holds the rod. Unfortunately this also makes the rears absurdly more expensive than the fronts. What I did was remove my defective old actuator, and plastic welded the arm from it onto a new working el-cheap front actuator. Bam - worked like a champ.

 

Part numbers:
Front left #72155SDAA01 / 8D1302
Front right #72115SDAA01 / 8D1303

Rear left #72655SEAG01 / DLA130
Rear right #72615SEAG01 / DLA148

If you are going to use the front actuators on the rear, buy the same side, and then modify it.

Rock auto has the fronts for under $19 bucks. Rears are $85.

 

thanks for the reply, man! You rock!

 

First off, thanks to the original poster and everyone else who has chimed in. Getting my 06' TL ready to hand off to my son for college, and thought I'd fix the drivers side actuator which has been down and out for years now. Well I was following another DIY from the site, and it only mentioned the one rod that runs from the outside handle to the actuator, so I popped that one out with no problem, and in trying to twist the actuator out from the door, the snap broke for the door lock rod at the key/door end... I put everything back in to make sure the new actuator was working and it is, but I just cant unlock with the key without replacing that snap. So I tried to wrap the rod end with tape to stick it in the hole in hopes it would stay in, that didnt work. Guess what, in trying to take that tape off with the actuator still in the door, the snap on the actuator end broke too.



So I have to replace both snaps from that rod, I know how to replace the one in the actuator, but does anyone know how to replace the one on the door handle end? Also, I am having problems figuring out what part I need from the diagram for the door end snap, the actuator end is #2 in the pic (72113-SR4-004), maybe its #5 (72119-SDA-A01)

. Thanks for any help!