Engine? Tranny? Sensor?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Engine? Tranny? Sensor?
So I'm back yet again with another problem. Quick intro before I get into the details. 04 TL autotragic w/ 160k rebuilt tranny about 12k ago (still shifts like shit)
Now on to the problem, last Saturday when I drove the car I noticed that the car would randomly jerk pretty violently when accelerating or decelerating. Then to make matter worst whenever I came to a stop while the car was in drive it would kill the motor so everytime I came to a stop I would put the car in neutral.
I also wanted to mention that if I put the car in reverse or drive the rpms would barely stay up and then eventually kill the motor. Sometimes the engine would stay on when I put it in drive or reverse but I would hear this weird chattering noise coming from the tranny side.
Here are some things that I think are wrong with it, torque converter clutch is stuck on (bad solenoids) or possibly the throttle position sensor that I've been reading about. My car is currently at the tranny shop and they can't seem to find what exactly is wrong with it so they ordered new solenoids as a starting point.
If anyone has experienced this please share your insights. Appreciate it!
Now on to the problem, last Saturday when I drove the car I noticed that the car would randomly jerk pretty violently when accelerating or decelerating. Then to make matter worst whenever I came to a stop while the car was in drive it would kill the motor so everytime I came to a stop I would put the car in neutral.
I also wanted to mention that if I put the car in reverse or drive the rpms would barely stay up and then eventually kill the motor. Sometimes the engine would stay on when I put it in drive or reverse but I would hear this weird chattering noise coming from the tranny side.
Here are some things that I think are wrong with it, torque converter clutch is stuck on (bad solenoids) or possibly the throttle position sensor that I've been reading about. My car is currently at the tranny shop and they can't seem to find what exactly is wrong with it so they ordered new solenoids as a starting point.
If anyone has experienced this please share your insights. Appreciate it!
#4
Senior Moderator
sounds like the torque converter is dragging and causing the engine to shut off. Is the trans fluid overfilled by any chance? The trans should not be shifting like shit. Did they put in new clutch packs and rehaul the whole unit or just replace little bits and pieces?
#5
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
I believe the trans fluid is slightly above the top hole on the stick and it's still bright red. When they rebuilt the tranny they put in new everything. The guy at the shop believes these issues are not
I'm pretty much annoyed at this point because my car has been sitting there for a month (yes I call every other day). I just got off the phone with them and he said he's going to do a test on the APP sensor because he stated that if it's bad it could mess with the fuel/air ratio causing the motor to kill once in drive/reverse.
I've also read that the random jerkiness can be cause by a bad APP sensor. Also the rpms sit below the norm when in drive/reverse to the point where it's barely staying on. So I think that'll be what I buy next as a checklist approach to fixing the car.
I really have no clue...
#7
Senior Moderator
The fluid should be BETWEEN THE TWO HOLES! This needs to be checked within 60 seconds of turning off the engine for a proper read! The transmission is hanging onto the engine causing it stall. A computer can't fix a mechanical problem with the torque converter. If you throw the car in Neutral does it stop from stalling?
Also turn the car on stall position on the ignition, and turn off all the accessories (radio, a/c, heated seats, etc). Turn the car on and let the car idle for 10 minutes and this will help it relearn the idle.
Hope this helps.
Also turn the car on stall position on the ignition, and turn off all the accessories (radio, a/c, heated seats, etc). Turn the car on and let the car idle for 10 minutes and this will help it relearn the idle.
Hope this helps.
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
The fluid should be BETWEEN THE TWO HOLES! This needs to be checked within 60 seconds of turning off the engine for a proper read! The transmission is hanging onto the engine causing it stall. A computer can't fix a mechanical problem with the torque converter. If you throw the car in Neutral does it stop from stalling?
Also turn the car on stall position on the ignition, and turn off all the accessories (radio, a/c, heated seats, etc). Turn the car on and let the car idle for 10 minutes and this will help it relearn the idle.
Hope this helps.
Also turn the car on stall position on the ignition, and turn off all the accessories (radio, a/c, heated seats, etc). Turn the car on and let the car idle for 10 minutes and this will help it relearn the idle.
Hope this helps.
I just find it hard to believe that a tranny shop that has been in business far quite some time cannot figure out whether it's the torque converter or not. My initial conclusion was the torque converter based on the car dieing and acting very strange in drive/reverse.
I know they do some kind of test for the torque convertor while the car is driving do you think that would catch some irregularity with how the torque convertor is performing? Also do you think that would cause random jerks while the car is driving?
In the beginning, roughly a week, after they rebuilt the tranny I noticed a shudder usually between 1st and 2nd. Sometimes it would happen in other gears but majority of the time in 1st and 2nd. I've bought the car to them twice and they say no issue. I believe this is how they come up with no issue:
1) No check engine light
2) They check the torque convertor with a system to see when it engages
3) The transmission fluid is still red
I wonder if this issue has worsen to the point to where I am now.
Appreciate the feedback!
#9
Senior Moderator
Did you pay for the repair with a credit card? If yes, start disputing the transaction now as you shouldn't have these issues.
After undoing the battery you need to do the idle relearn as I posted above.
If there is too much fluid, the converter will drag and cause your symptoms. Also it'll cause the vehicle to creep forward even when in N sometimes!
This is a test you can do for the tq converter but I'm not sure if it'll help:
Diagnosing Torque Converter Problems: Procedures for all Vehicles
and
Torque Converter
Our stall speed is 2500 RPM's.
After undoing the battery you need to do the idle relearn as I posted above.
If there is too much fluid, the converter will drag and cause your symptoms. Also it'll cause the vehicle to creep forward even when in N sometimes!
This is a test you can do for the tq converter but I'm not sure if it'll help:
Diagnosing Torque Converter Problems: Procedures for all Vehicles
and
Torque Converter
Our stall speed is 2500 RPM's.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Did you pay for the repair with a credit card? If yes, start disputing the transaction now as you shouldn't have these issues.
After undoing the battery you need to do the idle relearn as I posted above.
If there is too much fluid, the converter will drag and cause your symptoms. Also it'll cause the vehicle to creep forward even when in N sometimes!
This is a test you can do for the tq converter but I'm not sure if it'll help:
Diagnosing Torque Converter Problems: Procedures for all Vehicles
and
Torque Converter
Our stall speed is 2500 RPM's.
After undoing the battery you need to do the idle relearn as I posted above.
If there is too much fluid, the converter will drag and cause your symptoms. Also it'll cause the vehicle to creep forward even when in N sometimes!
This is a test you can do for the tq converter but I'm not sure if it'll help:
Diagnosing Torque Converter Problems: Procedures for all Vehicles
and
Torque Converter
Our stall speed is 2500 RPM's.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Just a quick update, I got a call from the shop and he stated that they are going to replace the torque converter. His main guy for torque converters said that a damper or spring could have broke in the converter which could cause the issues.
Hopefully the shudder and other issues will be cured due to a new torque converter. I won't have the car for another two weeks so I'll update then.
Hopefully the shudder and other issues will be cured due to a new torque converter. I won't have the car for another two weeks so I'll update then.
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