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engine tick/knock even after timing belt & check engine light after valve adjustment

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engine tick/knock even after timing belt & check engine light after valve adjustment

Old 01-03-2019, 10:14 AM
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engine tick/knock even after timing belt & check engine light after valve adjustment

I have a 2008 TL base nav auto 111000kms/70000mi. I was getting a low frequency (1, maybe 2 ticks per revolution if i had to guess) ticking/knocking noise in the engine, once the engine had been running for 10 seconds or so. The colder the start, the longer the engine would run quiet before it started to make the tick/knocking noise. The noise either goes away or gets drowned out at higher RPMs (2500/3000ish). I did some searching and discovered that the timing belt tensioner could cause a noise just like this. I ordered the aisin timing belt kit and installed it (no record of it being done by a previous owner so it was time anyways) but it made no difference in the ticking noise. I also installed new spark plugs at this time (ngk IZFR6K11) and noticed that the #5 spark plug tube seal was not sealing well and that coil/spark plug/tube was oily. there wasn't really any oil pooling at the bottom but there was enough everything dirty, which i cleaned this up as well as i could. the first start with the new timing belt/spark plug it started fine, but vibrated a bit for 10 or 15 seconds, then smoothed out. I could not audibly detect this slight rough running, but could only feel it through the seat. I figured it was something to do with the oily spark plug tube and since it smoothed out, i left everything as is.

It drove fine for the next week, no rough running or anything else notable other that the continued tick/knock.This past weekend i decided to measure/adjust the valve lash to see if any were way out of spec and causing the noise. (I also replaced the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals at this) I ended up tightening up the lash on 8 intake valves. These 8 were quite a bit looser than the other 4 that were right in the middle of the spec. They are all now pretty near the middle of the acceptable adjustment. All the exhaust valves were on the tight side of okay, so I left them alone. In my mind this many loose valves should cause a sewing machine ticking noise rather that a low frequency tick/knock. I wasn't hopeful that it would quiet the noise i was getting and i was right, the first start showed the same tick as before. (It may be slightly quieter now but it is really hard to say). The power steering pump made a groan and something briefly squealed then maybe a slight pop before it quieted down to normal (my memory is a bit fuzzy on this but it seems to me that it was more that a groan and slight squeal) on the first start after the valve lash adjustment, (i found out 2kms later that the power steering hose started leaking at the junction where the hard line off the pump and the soft line started dripping pretty seriously. This may or may not be related to the power steering groan/squeal. I was gentle as always when i disconnected and tied this hose out of the way to do the timing belt work and the valve lash adjustment work.) The car did the exact same slightly rough running as it did for the first start after the timing belt change, and smoothed itself out again. I figured this was due to the still oily spark plug coil again. I only idled the car in the garage for a few minutes and then shut it off. The following day i went out and started the car and after a few minutes of idling i noticed the check engine light was on (not blinking). It started fine, and ran fine. I drove home (250kms/150mi) and all was good (except the leaking power steering line).

I do not have a code reader so i don't know what the code for the check engine light is, and i realize that limits how much anyone can help me too. I am wondering if there is something i might have unplugged that would cause a CEL. I did not disconnect the throttle body connector, however i did disconnect the evap purge valve, and the dual stage intake actuator. There was another sensor i unhooked near the throttle body too but can't recall for sure (probably MAP sensor, maybe coolant temp?)The battery was hooked up the whole time, but the key was never in the ignition.. should any of these cause a CEL without turning the key on while they are disconnected? I realize a really poor valve adjustment could cause a CEL but i figure that tightening up loose valves shouldn't.

In my mind i wonder if the (slightly) rough running on first start would have caused the CEL, but it seemed identical to the timing belt change first start that didn't cause a CEL...could it be something to do with the power steering pump groan/squeal/pop on first start? i know there is a pressure sensor in that pressure line...any other thoughts? (other than i need to get a code reader, i'm looking into them)

I have quit driving the car until i get the power steering pressure hose fixed, it makes a mess and leaking fluids in the engine bay is never a good thing.

Thanks all
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Old 01-03-2019, 07:31 PM
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1. There is a safety recall for the PS hose. Pretty sure it covers 2008 models. Has it been done on your TL? (You can call any dealer and give them your VIN and they can tell you if the recall has been done.)

2. Re: the MIL. Yeah, there are about 11 things you unplug to remove the manifold IIRC. The MIL may or may not be related to an unplugged sensor.

3. Take it to any auto parts store and they will read your codes for free.
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Old 01-03-2019, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by nfnsquared View Post
1. There is a safety recall for the PS hose. Pretty sure it covers 2008 models. Has it been done on your TL? (You can call any dealer and give them your VIN and they can tell you if the recall has been done.)

2. Re: the MIL. Yeah, there are about 11 things you unplug to remove the manifold IIRC. The MIL may or may not be related to an unplugged sensor.

3. Take it to any auto parts store and they will read your codes for free.
1. Yes, I read about the recall and promptly booked my car in as soon as they could get it in.

2. Everything was plugged back in before the key was put in. I can see how those items being unplugged with the key on would cause the MIL, I'm wondering if any of those being unplugged even with the key out would cause it for sure. Surely someone here has done it the same way I did (battery connected but no key), and I would guess this isn't something that would be hit or miss.

3. Yes, I will be doing this once I get the car back on the road.

thanks
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Old 01-04-2019, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dgoodsy View Post
1. Yes, I read about the recall and promptly booked my car in as soon as they could get it in.

2. Everything was plugged back in before the key was put in. I can see how those items being unplugged with the key on would cause the MIL, I'm wondering if any of those being unplugged even with the key out would cause it for sure. Surely someone here has done it the same way I did (battery connected but no key), and I would guess this isn't something that would be hit or miss.

3. Yes, I will be doing this once I get the car back on the road.

thanks
You can do #3 when you do #1.
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Old 01-08-2019, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Pair of TLs View Post
You can do #3 when you do #1.
I checked and the dealer wants $90-$140 to scan, depending on what is found. For that price I will pass and get it scanned for free somewhere else this time. I can always go get the dealer to scan it at a later date if i need.

thanks,
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:13 PM
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I rented a scan tool today, found code p0443 - evap canister purge valve circuit malfunction. I checked under the hood and found an unplugged evap purge valve. I don't recall unplugging this but apparently I did, and didn't do a thorough search of the area when I was "done". Anyways I plugged it back in, cleared the code and when I took it for a brief drive the light did not return. Seems like it is fixed.

As for the tick, it hasn't rectified itself. Any other suggestions?

Last edited by dgoodsy; 01-17-2019 at 09:16 PM.
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