Engine firing problem after car sits for more than an hour

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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 07:43 PM
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Engine firing problem after car sits for more than an hour

Hey guys, I am having problems with my 2005 TL. If my car sits for around an hour or longer, it cranks alot longer before it fires up and will sometimes struggle to get idle and I have to give it a little gas to make sure it doesn't die. After its up and running it's pretty much fine. I've noticed that it does surge a small amount when I'm getting on it but the acceleration smooths out after a couple seconds. This problem has been getting progressively worse for the past couple of months and is now getting really bad.

I want to say it's my fuel pump but I want to make sure and ask for advice before I spend a couple hundred dollars on a new one and replace it myself.

My 05 TL has 196K miles and isn't throwing any codes or displaying any lights. I can hear the pump prime before I try and fire her up aswell. Hope someone can help me! Thank you
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 08:24 PM
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Check your voltage on and off.
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 11:02 PM
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I had my battery tested earlier today and it's perfect. It cranks over like a champ but it takes a while for it to actually fire up
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 05:26 AM
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i doubt it's the fuel pump.

try other small things first before tackling the fuel pump....
like, you can try inspecting EGR valve, PCV, spark plugs...simple things that give the engine spark or air
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Old Sep 7, 2019 | 12:25 AM
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Today I took some time and replaced the blower motor and resister, air filter, topped the coolant, drained and filled the oil and ATF, and then repalced all of those spark plugs. Immediately back to near perfect performance, but getting some missfires at the higher rev range of first gear, throttle full open and it put me in limp mode. The spark plugs were all ////Japan//// but looked a bit suspicious to me. I have to imagine it's not a fuel pump when I switch the plugs and I get such dramatic improvements, and similarly can't imagine it's the valves either, unless in any case the plugs start a bit fresh and the ECU has been reset so I get different performance, but I don't get such dramatic changes with just a battery unplug, only with new spark plugs. I did note the plugs are not all spec'd to the same, or right gap. I see as far as 33 to 49.....basically where I'm at is that if I run into significant missfires again (expected) I'll order direct from NGK for my plugs but I'm assuming there's another issue going on. The valve adjustment is pretty damn involved for time, and I don't have a garage to leave my car to work on, let alone the finesse/experienced required to know wtf I'm doing with a valve adjustment, or significant expense of having someone else do it. I'm at a bit of a loss, if I'm honest.

As an aside, a 20amp fuse is blown for the radio, which either happened while my mechanic was messing about with the parasitic energy drain and all that (main fuse blew three times while they were tracking down the blower motor issue), so I'll get that swapped tomorrow. I checked all the other dash fuses while I was at it, and that was the only one showing damage.
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