No worries man....we aren't always the nicest up front, but we are usually pretty helpful....eventually.

Confused by some of the posts today....is that photo the old or new thermostat? I am assuming old...and you have replaced with new....and with that new one, there is no apparent water flow?

I am "guessing" that the top hose is the flow from the engine off the water pump, the lower hose is the "cooled" flow back to the engine. That is at least how it has been on previous cars of mine. Also assuming your Timing Belt service hasn't been done? Sounds like the perfect time to do that service while replacing the water pump. There are many who get the timing belt kit from rockauto or from Amazon. Lots of info on those options in the forums already. Several timing belt threads in the past 2 months.

 

Thanks again, I will check them out. I found one on Amazon that included everything for 180.00. And reading the reviews on it, most of the parts are made by the same manufacturer that the
OE is. The photo was the old one. The new one did the same thing. Top hose hot, bottom hose cool.

 

Aisin is a good brand kit and Amazon is the place to get it. That or rockauto.com

My favorite online dealer site is oemacuraparts.com or acuraoemparts.com

 

Thanks, it was a Aisin kit #TKH-002. Seemed like everything was included to do the water pump and timing belt, including the roller bearings and hydrolic tensioner.

 

Ok Aziner's, this thread is getting long. Today I decided to take the thermo out and put everything back together w/o the thermo installed to see if I had flow or not. Thank goodness I did instead of ordering the kit in the above post to do the timing belt and water pump and all the work involved to replace all that. Both hoses got hot and with the rad cap off i had my wife rev it a little and coolant came up and out of the radiator. I guess that's what I get for getting a AZone thermostat. Ordering an oem Honda/Acura thermostat today. Don't know if it solved the fan issue or not, I have a steady drip coming from the bottom thermo housing bolt that I have to fix. Of course it would be the hardest one to get to! 😣

 

Just wondering if a bad radiator cap could somehow keep the radiator fan from cycling in and off? I dont see any leakage from it but i took the cap off when it was cold and coolant came up and was flush with the top of the opening. Shouldn't this drain into the overflow tank? There is room in the overflow tank. Any ideas?

 

When you opened it, you released the pressure which is why you saw it come up to the top.

Could a bad cap "prevent" the fans from coming on....no. Could a bad cap "cause" cooling issues...yes. It is cheap insurance to replace it. Actually check all of those components while you are still messing with it all. Make sure the cap and overflow tube are all in good condition and replace if needed. I just replaced mine a few weeks ago since a few of these threads recently got me thinking/worried. You can pick up one locally at your Honda dealer. Pretty sure it is the 2005 Accord EX V6 that should match the part number....don't quote me on that.

 

I ran my obd scanner and it's showing a PO118 electric coolant temp sensor 1 circuit high code. I looked it up but not much luck. I replaced the sensor already, it's a new sensor giving this code. Any ideas?

 

Please read the above post, this goes with it and i tried to edit it but my 15 min had expired. I also volt checked the plug that plugs into the ect sensor and got 4.989 volts and from the videos/research on this code thats what it says I should get. This is a ect bought from Adv. Auto. Not sure if that has anything to do with it or not. Sorry in advance for rhe double post.

 

So today, after numerous videos, your guys help and a lot of checking this and replacing that, my fans finally cut on and off like they should, I guess. The reason I say I guess is I hooked up my obd scanner to monitor the coolant temp and the radiator fan cut on at approx 204 degrees and cut off around 198 degrees. Does anyone know the specs the fan should cut on at? I put a aftermarket temp sensor in and just wondering how close it is to an oem part. Thanks again Aziners for all your help.

 

Check my earlier post in this thread. The info I have says the trigger is 206°F so it sounds like you fixed it. I thought you had already replaced the temp sensor but must have misread along the way.

 

You are right Adobeman, I did replace my ect sensor. I believe I just wasn't letting it idle long enough in the driveway to get that hot like Jackass said to do. I thought maybe my gage wasn't reading right and until I hooked up my obd scanner I was scared to let it idle to long without the fans cutting on. I will check your earlier reply in case I missed it. In case i dont find it, do you know the temp the fans go into high speed?

 

So what do you think was the actual fix? The temperature sensor or the thermostat? My radiator fan doesn't turn on all of the sudden but when I send direct power to it via jumper cables, it does. I also swapped the relays and nothing changed.

 

What did you chancc/fix to make your fans come back on?

 

Just bumping this thread up to say thanks for solving my fan issue that I've had since I don't know when.

Fans would only come on roaring (full speed) in the summer time, with or without AC turned on.

Just replaced my leaking radiatior with a new Denso one and subsequently had to burp the system. The system was burped after around 18 mins of idling. At this point I was just waiting for the fans to kick on twice (as per rule of thumb, once the fans kick on that means your thermostat has opened), but they never kicked on. After 35 min of idling without the fans coming on, something wasn't right (they're supposed to come on around 20 mins after idling). I felt the lower hose to make sure that the thermostat was opening, and it was to my relief as the lower hose was hot.
Great, all air is burped out which is awesome. Now to deal with the fans not kicking on.

Came across this thread, ordered the engine coolant temperature sensor 37870-PNA-003, changed it out within 5 minutes with a 17mm combo wrench and my fans kick on periodically now as it should.

I don't know how long I had a faulty sensor for (probably a very long time) but it wasn't until I had to burp my coolant that I knew something was wrong. I honestly just thought the fans weren't supposed to kick on in the winter.

 

So I have a 2006 Acura TL (Auto) and I'm having a very strange issue with the cooling fan for the radiator, drivers side. So far its got a new thermostat, coolant temp sensor, water pump, bled the system a bunch of time and have two new relays for both fans. Not the omrons ofc. say its cool outside or I'm in a shop, temps get to about 208F and the radiator fan kicks on to cool it down and will do that multiple times as it should. But once im outside again and its hot or just in general during the day it'll work for a bit but then the fan just stops working and temps start to rise past 215F with no fan on. If i bring it inside the temps will go down naturally then the fan resumes normal use. So I've come to the conclusion the radiator fan just doesn't wanna work outside when its hot or just during the day in general but will work at any other given time like in a shop, in the morning, at night etc. out of ideas plz help.