E-Brake woes...replaced things..now adjusting things.
#1
E-Brake woes...replaced things..now adjusting things.
I have the service manual print outs, so this won't need to be posted, I'm past this point and need more "experience" based answers...
I recently replaced the ebrake pads on my 07' TL JUST on the passenger side. I had to replace the passenger side because the rotor wouldn't come off and damaged the pads, etc. I got it all back together with new parts. I'm referring to just the passenger side in this post. The drivers side hasn't been touched, except for new rotors/pads.
When I put the rotor on, and I spin it with my hand, the pad is grabbing really aggressively and doesn't want to let the rotor spin all the way around. It spins with very little resistance, and then all of a sudden stops as it grabs the pads in that one area.
I adjusted the screw all the way out in the console.
I started the major adjustment. The adjustment screw "cowboy spur" is screwed all the way in to make it as short as possible, which would pull the pads in as far as they go I assume?..
A few questions:
1) Which way do I turn the "cowboy spur" in the rear to bring the pads out? Towards the car or away from the car?
I'm following the service manual print outs from this forum...but it doesn't mention which way to spin it for either adjustment.
2) Should the adjustment screw behind the rotor touch the the long bottom spring when you try to screw it? Mine rubs the spring, and it seems like if I turn it too much, it will damage that spring?
2) If the adjustment screw "cowboy spur" is all the way in (I assembled this way) - why are the pads touching the rotors still?
3) Will the major adjustment fix these issues, or does something else sound wrong?
I've tried:
-Pulling the ebrake handle and releasing it, hoping that would release, and major add even tension to the springs.
- Screwing the screw nearly all the way out inside of the console.
-
Thanks...this has been a really frustrating one...first time doing rear ebrakes...
I recently replaced the ebrake pads on my 07' TL JUST on the passenger side. I had to replace the passenger side because the rotor wouldn't come off and damaged the pads, etc. I got it all back together with new parts. I'm referring to just the passenger side in this post. The drivers side hasn't been touched, except for new rotors/pads.
When I put the rotor on, and I spin it with my hand, the pad is grabbing really aggressively and doesn't want to let the rotor spin all the way around. It spins with very little resistance, and then all of a sudden stops as it grabs the pads in that one area.
I adjusted the screw all the way out in the console.
I started the major adjustment. The adjustment screw "cowboy spur" is screwed all the way in to make it as short as possible, which would pull the pads in as far as they go I assume?..
A few questions:
1) Which way do I turn the "cowboy spur" in the rear to bring the pads out? Towards the car or away from the car?
I'm following the service manual print outs from this forum...but it doesn't mention which way to spin it for either adjustment.
2) Should the adjustment screw behind the rotor touch the the long bottom spring when you try to screw it? Mine rubs the spring, and it seems like if I turn it too much, it will damage that spring?
2) If the adjustment screw "cowboy spur" is all the way in (I assembled this way) - why are the pads touching the rotors still?
3) Will the major adjustment fix these issues, or does something else sound wrong?
I've tried:
-Pulling the ebrake handle and releasing it, hoping that would release, and major add even tension to the springs.
- Screwing the screw nearly all the way out inside of the console.
-
Thanks...this has been a really frustrating one...first time doing rear ebrakes...
#5
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
Spin them to the point of where the rotor can't be turned anymore by hand and back them off by 2 clicks. You probably adjusted them the wrong way.
#6
The adjustment screw hasn't been moved yet on the rears. I get 3/4's of a turn on the rotor and the rotor stops spinning. When I removed the rotor to see the issue, the right brake shoe is rubbing in just one spot..
Trending Topics
#8
Race Director
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...79&postcount=1
Step 6...
Are you sure you re-assembled everything correctly? If the adjustment sprocket is rotated all the way up and the cable is totally loose, then the shoes shouldn't be contacting the drum/rotor.
Have you examined the other side for comparison and to check if it is dragging also?
#9
I haven't tried adjusting and seeing how it moves the pads. The reason why I didn't do this, is because the spring is dragging on the sprocket and it concerned me. Is this normal? It seems like a horrible design and it could damage the spring during the adjustment?
Should they really be touching each other? Does the spring "hold" the adjustment of the "cowboy spur" or something?
Thanks for the help thus far!
I'm going to check tomorrow and see if there is anything I could have possibly missed. The e-brake functions fine (when I pull it, it freezes the rotors totally) - and releases fine, so I "think" I put it all together correctly. I just think the adjustments are so out of wack and I'm missing a step or something.
Should they really be touching each other? Does the spring "hold" the adjustment of the "cowboy spur" or something?
Thanks for the help thus far!
I'm going to check tomorrow and see if there is anything I could have possibly missed. The e-brake functions fine (when I pull it, it freezes the rotors totally) - and releases fine, so I "think" I put it all together correctly. I just think the adjustments are so out of wack and I'm missing a step or something.
#10
i
iTrader: (1)
I'm in the same position as you.
Where did you buy the ebrake shoes from? I bought some from pep boys and they were too thick. I bought OEM acura and they fit perfect.
Make sure to take the rear caliper off to make sure it's not dragging from the brake pads. The end result is you'll want a slight slight drag - enough to do about 1 rotation with your hands with ease. If you're getting uneven dragging (slight drag one part, more drag on the next), try doing the brake shoe pad break in procedure.
My mechanic taught me a different way than the book says. It's more of a feel like described above. You use the Cowboy Spur sprocket to adjust it until there is drag. I'm not sure how essential the spring is to the sprocket but I believe they are indirectly related. I just used my finger to move the spring out of the way while turning the cowboy spur.
Where did you buy the ebrake shoes from? I bought some from pep boys and they were too thick. I bought OEM acura and they fit perfect.
Make sure to take the rear caliper off to make sure it's not dragging from the brake pads. The end result is you'll want a slight slight drag - enough to do about 1 rotation with your hands with ease. If you're getting uneven dragging (slight drag one part, more drag on the next), try doing the brake shoe pad break in procedure.
My mechanic taught me a different way than the book says. It's more of a feel like described above. You use the Cowboy Spur sprocket to adjust it until there is drag. I'm not sure how essential the spring is to the sprocket but I believe they are indirectly related. I just used my finger to move the spring out of the way while turning the cowboy spur.
#12
These are OEM acura pads. I read online that the knock offs were too large, so I ordered the oem's.
I can turn it about 3/4's of a turn, before the caliper really get's locked up bad. It's like it's hitting unevenly...
I can turn it about 3/4's of a turn, before the caliper really get's locked up bad. It's like it's hitting unevenly...
#14
I fixed the issue.
The main issue was the dust shield that was behind the rotor. We had to put so much force getting the rotor off with a hammer, that the heat shield got hit accidently a few times. It was pushing into the rotor when the rotor was spinning, causing the rubbing issues. We had to give the heat shield some modification wacks to stop the rubbing.
The other issue is the adjustments were all out of wack on both sides. Just because you had an issue on one side and only fix the one ebrake side, doesn't mean the other won't need adjusted too. We adjusted both and it evened them out. We did the major and the minor adjustment on BOTH sides and everything came out OK.
Thanks for everyones help, this one was a pure pain in the ass. Be careful of the heat shields, they will cause confusion and mess with your confidence that you somehow put the car back together wrong.
The main issue was the dust shield that was behind the rotor. We had to put so much force getting the rotor off with a hammer, that the heat shield got hit accidently a few times. It was pushing into the rotor when the rotor was spinning, causing the rubbing issues. We had to give the heat shield some modification wacks to stop the rubbing.
The other issue is the adjustments were all out of wack on both sides. Just because you had an issue on one side and only fix the one ebrake side, doesn't mean the other won't need adjusted too. We adjusted both and it evened them out. We did the major and the minor adjustment on BOTH sides and everything came out OK.
Thanks for everyones help, this one was a pure pain in the ass. Be careful of the heat shields, they will cause confusion and mess with your confidence that you somehow put the car back together wrong.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rp_guy
Member Cars for Sale
9
07-16-2017 07:33 AM