Will_V

Hi,

About 3 weeks ago I noticed that I could not lock my car with the keyfob, not even with the doorlock switches. However, I can unlock and open the trunk as usual. The only thing I can do now is to lock all the doors manually and use keyfob to unlock them. I am not sure what wrong at this point. Please help.

Thanks,

Will Y.

Do you hear any "click" when pressing the lock buttons or the remote?

If so, it may be a bad door lock actuator. There are a few threads in here about bad actuators.

Otherwise, how is the car's battery- is it the OEM?

G/L.

Will_V

Thanks for your comment.
Well, I can hear a very soft sound only when the Lock button is pressed immediately after the Unlock button. But if I unlock the car for a minute or so I don't hear anything after the Lock button is pressed.
My battery is OEM, but it seems like everything else is working fine.

Hromit

I bet this is an actuator problem. If you have the repair manual and a screwdriver you can buy an actuator assembly on-line and replace the actuator. I had the very same symptoms on my Accord and it was an actuator. Actuators are a common problem on Hondas and dealers carry this part in stock. Having the repair manual is a must - you have to remove a bunch of stuff off the door prior to getting to the actuator.

Will_V

Thanks Hromit. Are all 4 actuators need to be replaced? or just the driver door? I called Acura2000 (my dealer), they said that it will take an hour to find the problem and take it from there. I want to fix it myself if possible.

Hromit

In my case the driver's door would not respond to the key fob. If the four doors are locked and I manually unlock the driver's door only (the other three being locked) then I can use the keyfob to open the other three. Or, I could lock the driver's door manually (the other three being unlocked) and then use the keyfob to lock the other three. This traced my problem to the driver's door actuator. I bought mine on-line for about half the price of what the dealer wanted. If you are not too lazy you can take the door apart to get to the actuator, disconnect it from the circuit, and apply proper voltage to see if it would respond. But this means taking the door apart. If your symptoms are different I would refer to the manual - body electrical - for troubleshooting. Actuator replacement is no big deal, really, a screwdriver and a socket wrench is all you need. But do get the repair manual - some things are connected in a non-intuitive way and it is important and helpful to know the order of disconnecting things. When I took the door apart I was a little worried about potential "spare parts" upon reassembly and took digital pics along the way - luckily I did not need them.

Will_V

Today, I spent more time on troubleshooting but still unable to solve it. Based on the circuit diagrams on pages 22-142 to 22-144 of the Sevice Manual, I come up with the following assumptions.
1. If the actuators are dead I should not be able to open the door with the remote and door switches.
2. All fuses are in good condition.
3. Door Lock Relays may be bad (still need to identify wherer these relays are located).
4. May be Door Multiplex control Unit is bad.
5. May be Multiplex Integrated ControlUnit (MICU) is bad.
6. Unlock circuit is disconnected.

I'm planning to take my car to the dealer this Friday (April 25).

Thanks.

Bubbs TL

My car is at the dealership now for the exact same issue. They initially thought it was the actuator and replaced it but within a half hour it stopped working again. After some further diagnostic they say its the drivers side fuse box. Lets hope thats the fix!

Will_V

Thanks for the info. Please report back once your car is fixed.

Bubbs TL

I picked up my car yesterday, and the doors locks are functioning great, I will let you know if I happen to run into any issues.

Will_V

Bubbs, would you please give the detail on what they fixed on your TL? Did the dealer replace the drive side fuse box?. Thank you.

Bubbs TL

Hi Will -

Yes they replaced the drivers side fuse box. I havent had any issues so far.
Let me know if you need more info.

Bubbs

Will_V

Hello Bubbs,
I took my car to my dealer yesterday morning for fixing two recall problems and I asked them to look into fixing the door lock problem. After 6 hours, I got a call from the Acura shuttle driver saying that my car is ready to for pick up. I was in a very good mood on the way to pick up my car. Once I got there they went over the work order. They took care of the recall items but left the door lock problem untouch. They said that they found after-market wirings (I rewired the DRL for LED bulbs and installed Canadian Tire Rust Protection Module) so they don't even look at the problem. They added that after-market items may have caused the problem. After some explaination they told me to make another appointment so they can get outside guy to come in who has experience in troubleshooting this kind of problem. I can't believe that they will get outside guy to work on my car. After thinking about this I decided to look at problem again.
According to the schematic diagram of the door lock/unlock, I beieve that the door lock/unlock acuators are good. I traced the problem to the underdash fuse box and I found something that is very interesting. Please help me to verify that the engaging of the Lock Relay sounds the same as the Unlock Relay, not very soft sound like in my case.
1. After I pressed on the unlock switch on the driver side door I can easily hear the engaging of the relay (built in with underdash relay box). The loud clicking sound indicates a good relay.
2. I repeated the step above but press on LOCK this time. In my case, the Lock Relay makes very soft sound about 1/10 of of that the Unlock Relay. I'm thinking that the underdash relay box ($253 CDN) is bad.

It helps to temporary remove the yellow 20A Door Lock fuse #8 (located underdash fuse box) so there is no interfering sound from the door lock actuators.
I am very much appreciated for your help on this matter. Thank you.

vv_lebelie

I am experiencing the same exact problem as you - I would like to know what the dealer told you - or what they had fixed.


Thanks

dr33m

I also had the same exact problem with the door locks a couple of months ago. The dealership initially replaced the driver's door lock actuator but when I picked up my car, the locks still didn't work. So, they kept the car and replaced the actuator again... and later that day after picking up my car, the locks stopped working again. In the end, they ended up replacing the multiplex unit by the driver's side fuse box. Since then... no more problems.

Will_V

My TL has been parked for the winter so I didn't really get a chance to work on it until this week. After a thorough investigation the problem I decided to order the driver side Fusebox ($259.99 CDN plus taxes). It took a day to order the part. I was about 90% sure that something must be wrong with the fusebox. If you have a question please let me know. Good luck.

vtec22

The thrad from the dead :-), having the same issue Im ordering my MICU tomorrow, hopefully it works!

Thomasv

iTrader: (2)

these cars are fucking pieces of shit. FUCK YOU ACURA.

Gotta order a MICU for my car. Jesus, did they hire the same people to engineer this car that engineered the Dodge Neons?! Fall apart cars....I swear, every time I replace something another part fails. This car is a giant piece of shit!

Cracked Dash, failed MICU, cupholder piece seperated, rear view mirror oozed out all the juice, the shifter not is tearing apart like it was made out of paper towels, all the clamps on this car are the worst possible fucking clamps you can put on any vehicle, over half a dozen recalls....WTF is next!? Oh yea, the navigation doesnt work...big fucking surprise!

Anyway...about to spend another 200+ on a MICU apparently... is this the right one?


http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/..._FUSE_BOX_ASSY
ACURA TL FUSE BOX ASSY
Part# 38200-SEP-A04

Thomasv

iTrader: (2)

Sorry for my rant above. Im about to order the part and now im not sure which way to go. Dangit. Seems like I can get in trouble here if i dont order the correct part.

Parts being considered for replacement: MICU, multiplex unit, and the fuse box assy.

Symptoms: I can lock my car manually and then lock it with the fob to turn on my alarm. It unlocks fine with the fob but wont lock with the fob alone. My brothers audio shop ts it down to a bad MICU but now im questioning whether or not it may actually be the fuse box or even the multiplex unit.

I cannot find the MICU in the parts catalog on acuraoemparts...can anyone tell me what its listed under? Do you think I should try the MICU instead of the multiplex unit or should i grab the fusebox assembly? Im not sure what made the shop determine that my MICU was bad but they do have a lot of equipment to help them make a determination.