jrican1219

I have a shop that wants 100 bucks for a BS rotor. They are claiming that one has hot spots and needs to be replaced.

For one, I would like to see the rotor to confirm this. How can i tell if that is true by looking at it?

Two, if i have them leave the current "hotspotted" rotor on, will i need to remove the brake pads to replace the rotor?

Are there any tools that I would need to do so?

Thx

01tl4tl

check the DIY/Garage section for complete brake job help

the caliper comes off-2 bolts, the brake pads, the caliper mounting bracket-2 bolts, the 2 rotor retaining screws (pita) and finally the rotor itself

Decent plain replacement rotors run from 50-75-100,
Check with napa and other parts stores, new pads will be required
If the rotor is hot spotted the pads have heat stress too!

Have another shop that specializes in brakes inspect the car- 2nd opinion as to why this has occured and the right cure
You should not be getting hot spots unless something else is wrong!!
Brake fluid could have moisture in it, rotor may be warped
Do you get any steering shake on braking

What made you take the car in to begin with?

jrican1219

That is why I am doubting the hot spots to begin with. No shaking what so ever. I took it in becuase of a loud audible squeal and I was pretty confident the brakes needed to be replaced.

Should i tell him to put the rotor back on? Should i look at it to see if it really does or now?
I dont want to do the work myself if it is that much. It just seems like they are taking me for a ride with a $99 rotor. I know they are not putting Brembos on it

nfnsquared

Well, technically no, you don't have to remove the pads to remove the rotor. To get the rotor off, it's two bolts to remove the caliper and with a little effort (and/or piston compression) the caliper assembly will slide off. Then you can pull the rotor off and replace it. However, it will be somewhat difficult (if not very difficult) to get the caliper back on without removing the pads from the caliper assembly. It's a lot easier to just remove the pads first, then the caliper, and then the rotor.

I doubt the squeal is caused by a hot spot/s. You might just need some grease on the back of the shims, on the pad retaining pins, and/or the spring clips. I'd regrease everything and see if that fixes the squeal. This is very easy to do and the DIYs in the garage have actual pictures of the caliper/rotors and scans of the service manual.

csmeance

apply the brakes firmly, do you have the squeel? If yes, check the brake pad sensors to see if they are hitting the rotors, meaning its time to change the pads. If they are not in contact, grease the shims as one member just said.

nfnsquared

Sorry, missed your last question. Yes, you'll want a torque wrench for tightening the caliper attachment bolts and the lug nuts.

01tl4tl

the OPs car is at the shop from what I read here,,the rotor may have been over heated and they called it hot spot
OP admits to some spirited braking- we all know that will kill a stock rotor

Ask what brand rotor they are using- bendix or brembo or what
If the rotor was overheated the pads are probably baked / dead

On Technically not removing the pads: if you pull the caliper assembly complete- the pads come with it --therby removing the pads to remove the rotor

Majofo

Yeah.. new rotors at AutoZone are like $50.. before you could bring them in and get them replaced for the life of your vehicle, I think now is like 2yrs.

I'd take it home and spend a weekend on it. Not a big deal.. the only PITA is the retention screws. I'm guessing if you do have hot spots or warped rotors the retention screws will be a big ass pain.

If you decide on doing it the only tool you really need is a big head phillips, socket set, hammer and a drive unit for the retention screws. When you use the drive unit try tighten direction first then try to remove.