zeta

iTrader: (1)

Nice write-up!

Just to clarify.

The bolts that gave you all the trouble were the 4 flange bolts (8x28) (#8 on the link below), located on the pump cover?
And the flow control valve cap was the bolt you accidently stripped? The cap that receives the O-ring #14 on the link below?

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2007...s-pump-bracket

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

yup exactly (i didn't strip the bolt, it's steel, i stripped the female threads in the aluminum pump housing for that bolt). can't wait for that impact wrench to show up on my door haha

thoiboi

which wrench did you get

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the clarification.
Now I know to break loose those 4 pump cover bolts before removing the PS pump from the engine.
Then, of course, I'll have to grapple with the flow control valve cap.

truonghthe

When you listen to the AZ mechanic/tech support from live stream lololol, how is your steering feel now?

Yes the Type S PS pump has 2 different part number (one is new and the other one is factory reman), but its the RDB that specific for the Type S.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Holy fucking headache, @sockr1 thanks for sharing!
I just redid the Ody pump with my buddy @vteckillerna1 and
it's going strong!

ryan g

Time for another resurrection! I’ve been putting this off for a while, but trying to determine if it’s the right solution.

I have the whine when cold and the pump looks like everyone else’s: covered in grime. Have all the parts in a cart, but am unsure if I should just replace the pump. The thing that has me wondering is that it is frustratingly difficult to turn the wheel in parking lots or doing k turns. It is somewhat easier if I give it a little throttle while turning the wheel. I also noticed the fluid is a little low and definitely old. It is for an 08 Type S. Car has 135K, but on a second motor that has about half that due to a CAI hydrolock situation a few years back (thanks hurricane Hermione). Not sure if the pump was replaced with it.

Would rebuild and flush be the way to go? Or does this sound like it’s shot?

thoiboi

rebuild it, unless you have extra money lying around

racerock

Based on your description (only): reuilding or replacing the pump may not fix the "difficult to turn" when cold. The root cause may actually be lower.... Your rack. Not saying it is as your car is not in front of me and I have no idea of your ability to diagnose or if all data is presented (in person noises/symptoms are sooo important)

Your gamble.

ryan g

What might be some symptoms that it is the rack? I have no issues while driving the car and no other sounds that I can make out other than the whine, but that dissipates as the car warms up. I mainly only have an issue while backing out of my driveway/K-turns and that's just extra effort to turn the wheel from a stop.

Valens

My steering was ok until I had to back up into a parking space. Then it was really stiff. Doing the rebuild fixed my issues completely, the steering was smooth as butter. My steering rack boot on the driver side has a little leak which I thought might be the culprit but nope, it was the pump.

If I were you I would do the rebuild or buy a junkyard oem pump if you got a reputable yard near you. I got one for $35. If you decide to change out the bearing, make sure to be gentle and use the right socket to press it in. Trust me.

ryan g

Thanks, I saw your thread literally right after posting here and has me hopeful the rebuild will help. Did you replace the shaft too or just the bearing?

Valens

Just did the bearing, not the shaft. Personally I thought that was going too far lol. The manual doesn't list the shaft as a wear item anyway.

Some more tips. I saw no reason to disassemble the million layers of the pump. Try to keep that part together if you can, make things much simpler.

If you don't have a vise, leave the power steering pump bolted into the engine to get the pulley off (stick something in the splines to keep it from moving). Also, the flow control valve cap was a bitch. Make sure you got a 10 mm hex socket. I was able to bolt the pump into the engine upside down to keep it steady while I removed the cap.

racerock

What you describe was characteristic on a different vehicle/different power steerin system setup on a car I diagnosed and repaired quitea few years ago and it was not the pump.
Others on here have provided very good input that in their experience it was the pump itself (which it very well can be and has been in the past as well for me)
Rebulding yours may be a very good first step to eliminate potential root cause

Again - we are not there, but you have given decent description. and are pretty much at a decision point in time.

The most important thing that can be done at this point: Determine your root cause and report back when you find it and repair with success (You can and are likely to do so)

ryan g

Finally tackled this over the weekend. Took a lot longer than I was hoping, but that's typically how all of my projects on this car go. The pump is now silent and everything seems pretty smooth. Steering from a complete stop is only marginally easier. I know the Type S pump/steering is typically stiffer than base, but to be honest after 11 years of having the car, I'm not even sure I remember what it felt like "new." I may have been disillusioned by my wife's electronic power steering. I didn't do the bearing; it wasn't really budging off the shaft and I was afraid I would damage the shaft if I kept hammering. Kind of wish I could turn the wheel with one hand from a stop, but all in all I would say it's a success.

Thanks for all the help.

Edit: I feel pretty stupid. As I re-read a couple of posts, I realized that I should have been trying to get the bearing off by hitting a socket over it and not the shaft
Even if it's quiet, could the bearing still be bad and replacing it make steering from a stop easier?

Valens

My projects on this car always take all day no matter what. At least the first time. Don't sweat it. If I remember right, you ARE supposed to hit the shaft to get the bearing off (thread a nut into the shaft and put a rag over it so you don't balloon it). I remember having to take some really gnarly hammer swings to get it off. You use a socket to get the shaft ON. A socket that touches the metal part of the bearing, not the orange part.

That said, concerning your last point. I can tell you this. I damaged my bearing and it was causing a high pitch whine. However, steering was a dream even like that. So if your bearing is quiet and smooth, it most likely isn't the problem. Did you bleed the car with the wheels off the ground and engine off? See here

ryan g

I bled it with the engine running. I also flushed it first.

My only complaint now is that it is still hard to turn at a stop. Everything else is super smooth. Maybe a re-bleed/flush would help?

Valens

If I were you I would do the bleeding like that post says (wheels in the air, engine off). Just to make sure it's not something as simple as air in the system.