DIY A-105: Power Steering Pump Overhaul (with Pics & SM Scans)
#201
Advanced
Anybody use this? Seems about the same price as ordering the parts online but I can get it by the weekend. Actual dealership jacks the price up even more on the 91349-P2A-003
#202
Advanced
Already got this done finally. Need to put a big fat disclaimer at the very top to follow the directions very closely to putting the pump pieces back together. Even though it looked correct and fit together at first, I couldn’t turn the wheel at all when I first did this. Luckily all the bolts were broke free so it was quick and easy to get back off. Need to especially pay attention to the direction of the “veins” inside the pump. I didn’t realize there was a round side and a flat side at first.
#203
Intermediate
iTrader: (1)
Already got this done finally. Need to put a big fat disclaimer at the very top to follow the directions very closely to putting the pump pieces back together. Even though it looked correct and fit together at first, I couldn’t turn the wheel at all when I first did this. Luckily all the bolts were broke free so it was quick and easy to get back off. Need to especially pay attention to the direction of the “veins” inside the pump. I didn’t realize there was a round side and a flat side at first.
#204
Was planning on doing this job next week during my vacation but all pics recently disappeared. Can OP please repost the pictures a lot of diy threads seem affected as well. Thank you
#205
Intermediate
I liked this post 2 years ago, just because it was such a good write up. However, with 190K on the TL...and a PS pump oil leak, I'll now get a chance to utilize this info! So...thanks again ;-)
#206
05 Acura TL: a-spec
I was quoted $225 to rebuild my leaking PS pump, so about 2 hours of my time was well spent on this diy. I replaced everything except for the bottom one that needed a large hex key (didn’t have the size and no leaks evident). The two big seals were really flat, old vs new was night and day.
Thank you rockstar for the awesome diy and bearcat for the scans!
Thank you rockstar for the awesome diy and bearcat for the scans!
#207
Buy Parts in Aftermarket kits to save $
Ordered a kit to do this as the Pump Cover Seal is now over $27. Bought the entire kit for the mid $20's.
- Will try to update after receiving and installing.
- Will try to update after receiving and installing.
#208
Instructor
Are all of the O-rings and seals the same for a Type s and standard power steering pump? I have been doing research and can't seem to find if they are the same seals even though the pumps are different.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#209
Thanks OP,
I've had a leak from the pump for 6 months. Glad to be finally rid of it.
The instructions were great, but IMHO I would wash the pump before disassembly not after. I spent more than half my time picking out little pieces of dirt from the inside of the pump. The outside of my pump looked like the OP's and every time I would handle the body to position it, I would touch the dirt. Then when I grabbed an internal piece, the dirt would transfer to the inside of the pump.
I've had a leak from the pump for 6 months. Glad to be finally rid of it.
The instructions were great, but IMHO I would wash the pump before disassembly not after. I spent more than half my time picking out little pieces of dirt from the inside of the pump. The outside of my pump looked like the OP's and every time I would handle the body to position it, I would touch the dirt. Then when I grabbed an internal piece, the dirt would transfer to the inside of the pump.
#211
I did, I wanted to avoid the pump grinding/whining sounds other posters have said are bad for your pump. I added a little via the intake opening (the opening that faces the front) once the pump was installed. The pump will only take a little so keep adding until you see the fluid back out of the intake opening.
I also turned the wheel a few times with the engine off and the wheels off the ground (got this tip from briansmobile1 on youtube). I'm not sure if either thing helped but I heard no whine or grinding sound after I started the car nor during the bleeding of air.
I also turned the wheel a few times with the engine off and the wheels off the ground (got this tip from briansmobile1 on youtube). I'm not sure if either thing helped but I heard no whine or grinding sound after I started the car nor during the bleeding of air.
#212
Update to the Gates Kit - Success after about 5,000 Miles of use
Now to continue the journey on the other leaks... Probably ending up dropping the engine and tranny sometime:
- Rear Main Seal
- Looks like the Oil Pump
- Oil Pan may also be weeping some
Not a fun job, I have better things to do.
#214
CAD Guy
This DIY is very helpful. I used it to overhaul mine earlier this year. I had intentions of replacing the bearing and shaft seal, but I was unable to remove the shaft from the housing. I replaced the reservoir, suction hose & the hose that goes from the reservoir to the cooler while I had it apart. I prefilled the pump before I started it up and had no issues with squealing or air in the system. Fixed my slight leak & my cold start whine, power steering feels better than before!
#215
N00b Extraordinaire
Did that kit work out for you?
Anybody use this? Seems about the same price as ordering the parts online but I can get it by the weekend. Actual dealership jacks the price up even more on the 91349-P2A-003
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-348558-...CACVQ4PZ4JPGEW
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-348558-...CACVQ4PZ4JPGEW
#216
#217
Including Comparison of Rockauto to Amazon kit
I'll chime in on the kit I bought from Rockauto and reported above:
- It looks like it was the same kit in your link to Amazon and Amazon is about the same price after shipping, tax... depending on your state, account and how your state does taxes...
- It still continues to seal
- Good kit[/QUOTE]
- It looks like it was the same kit in your link to Amazon and Amazon is about the same price after shipping, tax... depending on your state, account and how your state does taxes...
- It still continues to seal
- Good kit[/QUOTE]
#218
N00b Extraordinaire
Couldn't wait....
I'll chime in on the kit I bought from Rockauto and reported above:
- It looks like it was the same kit in your link to Amazon and Amazon is about the same price after shipping, tax... depending on your state, account and how your state does taxes...
- It still continues to seal
- Good kit
- It looks like it was the same kit in your link to Amazon and Amazon is about the same price after shipping, tax... depending on your state, account and how your state does taxes...
- It still continues to seal
- Good kit
#220
N00b Extraordinaire
Did anyone manage to get the pulley off??
#221
N00b Extraordinaire
So, I finally got the nut off the pulley bolt. I was really paranoid that it was reverse-threaded because it was taking an inordinate amount of effort to loosen something that was torqued to 47ft-lbs. So, no, it wasn't reverse threaded, and yes, I finally got it off.
#222
- I have learned to minimize recommendations to co-workers, etc...
#223
Curious
I noticed quite a few complaining that the re-seal did not fix their issue. Something everyone needs to do, while the pump is apart, is check the bearing inside the pump. It is pressed on the shaft. Spin it and feel if its nice, quiet, smooth, and tight. If its loose, spins rough, or is hard to spin...it needs replaced. When I re-sealed my pump, it ended up being the bearing making the noise and I had to replace it. This was obvous when I spun the bearing by hand and it made noise.
Running with the pump wining too long will damage the bearing. The pump is sucking air causing it to cavitate. This causes lots of vibrations internally in the pump and the small bearing can only take so much.
This is why those who have done the re-seal with no luck finally had the noise go away when the pump was replaced. New pump = new bearing.
Running with the pump wining too long will damage the bearing. The pump is sucking air causing it to cavitate. This causes lots of vibrations internally in the pump and the small bearing can only take so much.
This is why those who have done the re-seal with no luck finally had the noise go away when the pump was replaced. New pump = new bearing.
#224
Reviving this post . im just curious , is there a way to tell if you need a new pump, or just a reseal? I have whiny noises when I turn the steering wheel and such. I just want to make sure because it would be a hassle to take apart the pump to reseal and take it off again to replace with a new pump if the reseal didn’t work. Thanks! I’m in a similar situation and looking for ways to tackle it
Basically get a quarter and flip it as we do not know your ability, only you do.
A good cleaning/reseal may do it.
May not
You need to decide to just go ahead and get a warranty with a rebuilt one and save some time...
Being honest here.
#225
Refer to my last post regarding advice:
Basically get a quarter and flip it as we do not know your ability, only you do.
A good cleaning/reseal may do it.
May not
You need to decide to just go ahead and get a warranty with a rebuilt one and save some time...
Being honest here.
Basically get a quarter and flip it as we do not know your ability, only you do.
A good cleaning/reseal may do it.
May not
You need to decide to just go ahead and get a warranty with a rebuilt one and save some time...
Being honest here.
#226
It would come with a warranty.
Did not say exactly as you quoted "guarantee the whiny noise to go away"
- But that is very likely
You are close to my advice. IMO the best way to do what you say in one shot and save time is to go to a good dealer or independent shop, give them the keys and get out your credit card...
- but replacement is pretty straightforward to the above average wrencher
#227
No, what I am said is that "you need to decide"
It would come with a warranty.
Did not say exactly as you quoted "guarantee the whiny noise to go away"
- But that is very likely
You are close to my advice. IMO the best way to do what you say in one shot and save time is to go to a good dealer or independent shop, give them the keys and get out your credit card...
- but replacement is pretty straightforward to the above average wrencher
It would come with a warranty.
Did not say exactly as you quoted "guarantee the whiny noise to go away"
- But that is very likely
You are close to my advice. IMO the best way to do what you say in one shot and save time is to go to a good dealer or independent shop, give them the keys and get out your credit card...
- but replacement is pretty straightforward to the above average wrencher
Last edited by Ronny Thai; 03-22-2019 at 05:43 PM.
#228
Suzuka Master
its took me 60 mins for the first time from remove, clean, rebuilt and re-install. Its an easy job and its way easier if you buy a replacement pump. I wouldn't bring the car to the shop for this one.
#229
- But that is with about 48 years of experience turing wrenches up to extreme work that many would just walk away from...
One with little experience could get it on their bench and be lucky to get the pump back together adequately to be qualified as a core so they don't get charged the core deposit when giving up and buying a rebuild pump.
I remember decades ago - a friend was doing basic front end work on a Toyota. Totally screwed up a bearing surface and gave up before getting it back together. Another friend ended up buying it as was. Fixed it in one day.
- Both were happy.
#230
do you have the part number for that pump seal that OP missed? Thanks. Just making sure I have all the seals needed .
#231
Best way to buy the seals. Otherwise, you need to check your breakdown on your own with recent part numbers. Not much more we can do except for hit the keys for you...
#232
Pro
One of the parts has increased 10x making the parts come out to roughly $40 shipping included from oemacuraparts.
Napa has the same gasket kit for $20 albeit not Honda parts. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PSK73786
Would you guys trust the Napa gaskets? Having worked at a body shop years ago, Napa was a trusted supplier.
Sorry for the double post.
Napa has the same gasket kit for $20 albeit not Honda parts. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PSK73786
Would you guys trust the Napa gaskets? Having worked at a body shop years ago, Napa was a trusted supplier.
Sorry for the double post.
#233
Racer
One of the parts has increased 10x making the parts come out to roughly $40 shipping included from oemacuraparts.
Napa has the same gasket kit for $20 albeit not Honda parts. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PSK73786
Would you guys trust the Napa gaskets? Having worked at a body shop years ago, Napa was a trusted supplier.
Sorry for the double post.
Napa has the same gasket kit for $20 albeit not Honda parts. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PSK73786
Would you guys trust the Napa gaskets? Having worked at a body shop years ago, Napa was a trusted supplier.
Sorry for the double post.
The following users liked this post:
Joecop67 (04-01-2019)
#234
Refer to my last post regarding advice:
Basically get a quarter and flip it as we do not know your ability, only you do.
A good cleaning/reseal may do it.
May not
You need to decide to just go ahead and get a warranty with a rebuilt one and save some time...
Being honest here.
Basically get a quarter and flip it as we do not know your ability, only you do.
A good cleaning/reseal may do it.
May not
You need to decide to just go ahead and get a warranty with a rebuilt one and save some time...
Being honest here.
#235
- WAY too often we spend time helping folks out and never hear of the outcome. Your post should help other people in your situation and level of ability better weigh the odds before considering investing time and parts on rebuilding.
Greatly appreciated. Good to hear the good news.
- We have 4 Acuras in the family and have had up to 5 at one time. Mainly TL's
#236
In a funny twist of fate I searched for the pump diy and it led me back to my own thread
This time it's a 2012 Odyssey for my fiance. It's weeping all over the place and the reservoir is now low.
I'm trying to decide if I need to do the shaft o-ring since I never ended up having to do it on either my
previous TL. I don't own snap ring pliers which is my main hesitation but I guess it would be a good time
to buy a pair.
This time it's a 2012 Odyssey for my fiance. It's weeping all over the place and the reservoir is now low.
I'm trying to decide if I need to do the shaft o-ring since I never ended up having to do it on either my
previous TL. I don't own snap ring pliers which is my main hesitation but I guess it would be a good time
to buy a pair.
#237
Burning Brakes
You don't need a snap ring pliers to do it. I did it with just needle nose pliers to get the snap ring in and out, it works. Did have to use the Lisle shaft type seal puller to get that middle large seal out. I also changed out the bearing with another OEM NSK bearing, using a 1-1/8" socket to seat the bearing back in.
#239
Burning Brakes
I used this seal kit from Gates, fits perfectly.
For the bearing, I used OEM, which has metal seal on the inner side that shields from ps fluid's heat. 91048-P2A-003 . I could not find a bearing a couple years back with metal seal on one side and rubber seal on the flip side.
For the bearing, I used OEM, which has metal seal on the inner side that shields from ps fluid's heat. 91048-P2A-003 . I could not find a bearing a couple years back with metal seal on one side and rubber seal on the flip side.
#240
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
first off wanted to say thank you to J for putting this guide together!! i know many people have used it and it's much cheaper and more robust to do it yourself with oem o-rings than any other option out there.
i wanted to put my comments up as well in case it helps anyone else since it's pretty recent
here is the parts list for the 07-08 type s...i do not know if these are the same parts for the non type s models
O-Ring (15.2X2.4)
91347-P2A-003
O-Ring (51.0X2.4)
91348-P2A-003
O-Ring (13.0X1.9)
91345-RDA-A01
O-Ring (16.7X1.8)
91347-PAA-A01
Seal, Power Steering Pump Cover
91349-R70-P01
Seal, Power Steering Pump
91249-PNC-003
O-Ring (14.4X1.9)
91370-SV4-000
and if you want to go all out and replace the bearing and the shaft (i did), here is what else you can get for $36 more. i recommend replacing the shaft and the bearing since you're going to be in there already.
Bearing, Radial Ball (17X40X12)
91048-P2A-003
$13
Shaft, Power Steering Pump Drive
56141-PAA-A01
$23
key note! use an impact wrench to get the four pump bolts off, the 10mm hex bolt out, and the pulley nut. I had to do this rebuild twice (more on that later) and the first time took me a few hours to manually break all those items free (breaker bars, vise, etc). when i did it the second time on a different pump (more on that later), i used an impact wrench and all those bolts/nut took less than a minute total. i'll be buying an impact wrench this xmas for sure.
so here's how my 3 hour job turned into 2 weeks of my daily car sitting in my garage and i was left to bum rides like a poor high school kid:
- my ps pump has been slowly leaking for 4 hours, and i ordered all the oem parts a year ago but never had time to get around to it (very minor leak and having 2 kids under 3 doesn't help).
- finally decided to go for it on a tuesday night, and took me about 2-3 hours of trying to break the bolts free with no luck. the geometry is super awkward to hold and i had no impact wrench. finally break everything free except for the 10mm bolt...last item left. so i call it a night and decide i'll use a coworkers impact wrench the next day
- get the impact wrench on wed night and try to break it free but can't get a good enough countertorque on the ps pump to let the impact wrench do its thing
- get a tip from thea truong (thank you for listening to all my rants and giving me good advice) to bolt the ps pump back to the engine backward for good countertorque.
- get ps pump bolted in and i start playing with the impact wrench getting familiar with it. in my testing it out, i forgot to switch the switch back to counterclockwise, put my full body behind it, and boom, strip all the aluminum threads on the inside of the ps pump. pump is toast haha
i then proceed to source a ps pump for a type s (must have "RDB" not "RDA" in part number) and in my search i find out the type s pump is unique in that after 3250 rpms the flow decreases (i'm guessing a different valve or valve actuation) and the steering feel stiffens up for on center stability. pretty cool! but that limits my search big time. all 7 junkyards in a 100 mile radius are stripped of their type s pumps. finally find one in pennsylvania but he couldn't ship over the weekend. finally order it and there is a 3 day snow delay. after 2 weeks, i finally get my used type s pump ($85 shipped) and rebuild that super quick with no stupid mistakes and everything was back and running...2 weeks later haha. i didn't opt for a reman one from rockauto because i know the ps pump is extremely sensitive and i try to get oem everything when possible
long post but i feel there is some useful info plus a few smiles at the expense of my dumb mistakes!
dumb dumb
all cleaned up and rebulit!
i wanted to put my comments up as well in case it helps anyone else since it's pretty recent
here is the parts list for the 07-08 type s...i do not know if these are the same parts for the non type s models
O-Ring (15.2X2.4)
91347-P2A-003
O-Ring (51.0X2.4)
91348-P2A-003
O-Ring (13.0X1.9)
91345-RDA-A01
O-Ring (16.7X1.8)
91347-PAA-A01
Seal, Power Steering Pump Cover
91349-R70-P01
Seal, Power Steering Pump
91249-PNC-003
O-Ring (14.4X1.9)
91370-SV4-000
and if you want to go all out and replace the bearing and the shaft (i did), here is what else you can get for $36 more. i recommend replacing the shaft and the bearing since you're going to be in there already.
Bearing, Radial Ball (17X40X12)
91048-P2A-003
$13
Shaft, Power Steering Pump Drive
56141-PAA-A01
$23
key note! use an impact wrench to get the four pump bolts off, the 10mm hex bolt out, and the pulley nut. I had to do this rebuild twice (more on that later) and the first time took me a few hours to manually break all those items free (breaker bars, vise, etc). when i did it the second time on a different pump (more on that later), i used an impact wrench and all those bolts/nut took less than a minute total. i'll be buying an impact wrench this xmas for sure.
so here's how my 3 hour job turned into 2 weeks of my daily car sitting in my garage and i was left to bum rides like a poor high school kid:
- my ps pump has been slowly leaking for 4 hours, and i ordered all the oem parts a year ago but never had time to get around to it (very minor leak and having 2 kids under 3 doesn't help).
- finally decided to go for it on a tuesday night, and took me about 2-3 hours of trying to break the bolts free with no luck. the geometry is super awkward to hold and i had no impact wrench. finally break everything free except for the 10mm bolt...last item left. so i call it a night and decide i'll use a coworkers impact wrench the next day
- get the impact wrench on wed night and try to break it free but can't get a good enough countertorque on the ps pump to let the impact wrench do its thing
- get a tip from thea truong (thank you for listening to all my rants and giving me good advice) to bolt the ps pump back to the engine backward for good countertorque.
- get ps pump bolted in and i start playing with the impact wrench getting familiar with it. in my testing it out, i forgot to switch the switch back to counterclockwise, put my full body behind it, and boom, strip all the aluminum threads on the inside of the ps pump. pump is toast haha
i then proceed to source a ps pump for a type s (must have "RDB" not "RDA" in part number) and in my search i find out the type s pump is unique in that after 3250 rpms the flow decreases (i'm guessing a different valve or valve actuation) and the steering feel stiffens up for on center stability. pretty cool! but that limits my search big time. all 7 junkyards in a 100 mile radius are stripped of their type s pumps. finally find one in pennsylvania but he couldn't ship over the weekend. finally order it and there is a 3 day snow delay. after 2 weeks, i finally get my used type s pump ($85 shipped) and rebuild that super quick with no stupid mistakes and everything was back and running...2 weeks later haha. i didn't opt for a reman one from rockauto because i know the ps pump is extremely sensitive and i try to get oem everything when possible
long post but i feel there is some useful info plus a few smiles at the expense of my dumb mistakes!
dumb dumb
all cleaned up and rebulit!
Last edited by sockr1; 11-11-2019 at 12:39 PM.