jeffgt14

Anybody use this? Seems about the same price as ordering the parts online but I can get it by the weekend. Actual dealership jacks the price up even more on the 91349-P2A-003

jeffgt14

Already got this done finally. Need to put a big fat disclaimer at the very top to follow the directions very closely to putting the pump pieces back together. Even though it looked correct and fit together at first, I couldn’t turn the wheel at all when I first did this. Luckily all the bolts were broke free so it was quick and easy to get back off. Need to especially pay attention to the direction of the “veins” inside the pump. I didn’t realize there was a round side and a flat side at first.

tenacious tl

iTrader: (1)

I have the same problem. I replaced all the seals and a bunch of front end components (driveshafts, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar links). I went to drive my car today for the first time and I can hardly turn the steering wheel. I'm going to disassemble and check the orientation of the pieces inside the pump and burp the system to see if that solves my issue.

Ibis

Was planning on doing this job next week during my vacation but all pics recently disappeared. Can OP please repost the pictures a lot of diy threads seem affected as well. Thank you

Chisel

I liked this post 2 years ago, just because it was such a good write up. However, with 190K on the TL...and a PS pump oil leak, I'll now get a chance to utilize this info! So...thanks again ;-)

Topher707

I was quoted $225 to rebuild my leaking PS pump, so about 2 hours of my time was well spent on this diy. I replaced everything except for the bottom one that needed a large hex key (didn’t have the size and no leaks evident). The two big seals were really flat, old vs new was night and day.

racerock

Ordered a kit to do this as the Pump Cover Seal is now over $27. Bought the entire kit for the mid $20's.
- Will try to update after receiving and installing.

Andy07KBP

Are all of the O-rings and seals the same for a Type s and standard power steering pump? I have been doing research and can't seem to find if they are the same seals even though the pumps are different.

Thanks!

redbeard1

Thanks OP,

I've had a leak from the pump for 6 months. Glad to be finally rid of it.

The instructions were great, but IMHO I would wash the pump before disassembly not after. I spent more than half my time picking out little pieces of dirt from the inside of the pump. The outside of my pump looked like the OP's and every time I would handle the body to position it, I would touch the dirt. Then when I grabbed an internal piece, the dirt would transfer to the inside of the pump.

Mr. Showtime

Should I "pre fill" the pump before putting it back on?

redbeard1

I did, I wanted to avoid the pump grinding/whining sounds other posters have said are bad for your pump. I added a little via the intake opening (the opening that faces the front) once the pump was installed. The pump will only take a little so keep adding until you see the fluid back out of the intake opening.

I also turned the wheel a few times with the engine off and the wheels off the ground (got this tip from briansmobile1 on youtube). I'm not sure if either thing helped but I heard no whine or grinding sound after I started the car nor during the bleeding of air.

racerock

SO, I rebuilt the one that was weeping on our 07 TL shortly after posting. I was in there the other day and looked around and it was clean.

Now to continue the journey on the other leaks... Probably ending up dropping the engine and tranny sometime:
- Rear Main Seal
- Looks like the Oil Pump
- Oil Pan may also be weeping some

Not a fun job, I have better things to do.

mariusz439

I've just bought the cover seal for about 8$ here in Poland. It is the first seal that is cheaper here than in US

05 Acura TL

This DIY is very helpful. I used it to overhaul mine earlier this year. I had intentions of replacing the bearing and shaft seal, but I was unable to remove the shaft from the housing. I replaced the reservoir, suction hose & the hose that goes from the reservoir to the cooler while I had it apart. I prefilled the pump before I started it up and had no issues with squealing or air in the system. Fixed my slight leak & my cold start whine, power steering feels better than before!

LazLong

Did that kit from Amazon work out for you? The cover seal alone is listing at $55 from Honda....

racerock

I'll chime in on the kit I bought from Rockauto and reported above:
- It still continues to seal
- Good kit

racerock

I'll chime in on the kit I bought from Rockauto and reported above:
- It looks like it was the same kit in your link to Amazon and Amazon is about the same price after shipping, tax... depending on your state, account and how your state does taxes...
- It still continues to seal
- Good kit[/QUOTE]

LazLong

I tried to buy the Gates kit referenced above, but Amazon gave it a one to two month wait time for the Prime item, and I couldn't wait. Instead bought a kit from (please don't troll me) AutoZone for $25. Inside the box was a plastic bag that had the Gates part number on it, and the box was marked as containing parts packed in the US and sourced from JP and CN. I'm gonna install it this weekend (tomorrow).

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

LOL...who cares where you bought it, it's probably all manufactured in the same place anyway!
Glad to see the DIY is still alive and strong!

LazLong

Yeah, so I bought the kit and bearing, but I can't get the damn pulley off!!! I broke my "variable pin spanner wrench" trying to hold the pulley in place while trying to turn the damn nut. I gotta have the car for tomorrow so I'm just going to buy a cheap pump from AutoZone and rebuild my original pump at a more relaxed pace. Which means I probably won't rebuild it until the cheap POS AutoZone pump gives up the ghost day after tomorrow.

Did anyone manage to get the pulley off??

LazLong

So, I finally got the nut off the pulley bolt. I was really paranoid that it was reverse-threaded because it was taking an inordinate amount of effort to loosen something that was torqued to 47ft-lbs. So, no, it wasn't reverse threaded, and yes, I finally got it off.

racerock

Be sure to get the shaft out of the pump to do the one seal that is in there. Based on what you wrote above, you will probably have a hard time with that, so maybe just leave the original in there...
- I have learned to minimize recommendations to co-workers, etc...

Ronny Thai

racerock

Refer to my last post regarding advice:
Basically get a quarter and flip it as we do not know your ability, only you do.

A good cleaning/reseal may do it.
May not

You need to decide to just go ahead and get a warranty with a rebuilt one and save some time...

Being honest here.

Ronny Thai

racerock

No, what I am said is that "you need to decide"
It would come with a warranty.

Did not say exactly as you quoted "guarantee the whiny noise to go away"
- But that is very likely

You are close to my advice. IMO the best way to do what you say in one shot and save time is to go to a good dealer or independent shop, give them the keys and get out your credit card...
- but replacement is pretty straightforward to the above average wrencher

Ronny Thai

truonghthe

its took me 60 mins for the first time from remove, clean, rebuilt and re-install. Its an easy job and its way easier if you buy a replacement pump. I wouldn't bring the car to the shop for this one.

racerock

60 min was about my time. I usually do some other things when in there and always hard to judge total time due to cleaning up tools, hands, materials back, taking a leak, etc...
- But that is with about 48 years of experience turing wrenches up to extreme work that many would just walk away from...

One with little experience could get it on their bench and be lucky to get the pump back together adequately to be qualified as a core so they don't get charged the core deposit when giving up and buying a rebuild pump.

I remember decades ago - a friend was doing basic front end work on a Toyota. Totally screwed up a bearing surface and gave up before getting it back together. Another friend ended up buying it as was. Fixed it in one day.
- Both were happy.

Ronny Thai

do you have the part number for that pump seal that OP missed? Thanks. Just making sure I have all the seals needed .

racerock

If you bought the full kit that was referenced in my post above, you have it.

Best way to buy the seals. Otherwise, you need to check your breakdown on your own with recent part numbers. Not much more we can do except for hit the keys for you...

Joecop67

One of the parts has increased 10x making the parts come out to roughly $40 shipping included from oemacuraparts.
Napa has the same gasket kit for $20 albeit not Honda parts. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PSK73786
Would you guys trust the Napa gaskets? Having worked at a body shop years ago, Napa was a trusted supplier.

Sorry for the double post.

jimmyfu

I think it's a crap shoot to be honest. Sometimes non-oem gaskets only fit 95%, and that's enough to start leaking. However, I did need a PCV valve, and turns out the NAPA part was exactly oem (part number and oem brand on the actual part, just different box)

Ronny Thai

thanka for the advice. I replaced the entire pump and sound so far is great. No whining at all and steering is smooth. Glad I went that route thanks for the advice man!

racerock

You are very welcome and thank you for the feedback for me and everyone that reads these threads.
- WAY too often we spend time helping folks out and never hear of the outcome. Your post should help other people in your situation and level of ability better weigh the odds before considering investing time and parts on rebuilding.
Greatly appreciated. Good to hear the good news.
- We have 4 Acuras in the family and have had up to 5 at one time. Mainly TL's

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

In a funny twist of fate I searched for the pump diy and it led me back to my own thread
This time it's a 2012 Odyssey for my fiance. It's weeping all over the place and the reservoir is now low.
I'm trying to decide if I need to do the shaft o-ring since I never ended up having to do it on either my
previous TL. I don't own snap ring pliers which is my main hesitation but I guess it would be a good time
to buy a pair.

t-rd

You don't need a snap ring pliers to do it. I did it with just needle nose pliers to get the snap ring in and out, it works. Did have to use the Lisle shaft type seal puller to get that middle large seal out. I also changed out the bearing with another OEM NSK bearing, using a 1-1/8" socket to seat the bearing back in.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

@t-rd Good to know, thank you...
do you happen to have the part numbers for the nsk bearing and inner seal?

t-rd

I used this seal kit from Gates, fits perfectly.
For the bearing, I used OEM, which has metal seal on the inner side that shields from ps fluid's heat. 91048-P2A-003 . I could not find a bearing a couple years back with metal seal on one side and rubber seal on the flip side.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

first off wanted to say thank you to J for putting this guide together!! i know many people have used it and it's much cheaper and more robust to do it yourself with oem o-rings than any other option out there.
i wanted to put my comments up as well in case it helps anyone else since it's pretty recent

here is the parts list for the 07-08 type s...i do not know if these are the same parts for the non type s models

O-Ring (15.2X2.4)
91347-P2A-003


O-Ring (51.0X2.4)
91348-P2A-003


O-Ring (13.0X1.9)
91345-RDA-A01


O-Ring (16.7X1.8)
91347-PAA-A01


Seal, Power Steering Pump Cover
91349-R70-P01


Seal, Power Steering Pump
91249-PNC-003


O-Ring (14.4X1.9)
91370-SV4-000


and if you want to go all out and replace the bearing and the shaft (i did), here is what else you can get for $36 more. i recommend replacing the shaft and the bearing since you're going to be in there already.


Bearing, Radial Ball (17X40X12)
91048-P2A-003
$13


Shaft, Power Steering Pump Drive
56141-PAA-A01
$23


key note! use an impact wrench to get the four pump bolts off, the 10mm hex bolt out, and the pulley nut. I had to do this rebuild twice (more on that later) and the first time took me a few hours to manually break all those items free (breaker bars, vise, etc). when i did it the second time on a different pump (more on that later), i used an impact wrench and all those bolts/nut took less than a minute total. i'll be buying an impact wrench this xmas for sure.


so here's how my 3 hour job turned into 2 weeks of my daily car sitting in my garage and i was left to bum rides like a poor high school kid:
- my ps pump has been slowly leaking for 4 hours, and i ordered all the oem parts a year ago but never had time to get around to it (very minor leak and having 2 kids under 3 doesn't help).
- finally decided to go for it on a tuesday night, and took me about 2-3 hours of trying to break the bolts free with no luck. the geometry is super awkward to hold and i had no impact wrench. finally break everything free except for the 10mm bolt...last item left. so i call it a night and decide i'll use a coworkers impact wrench the next day
- get the impact wrench on wed night and try to break it free but can't get a good enough countertorque on the ps pump to let the impact wrench do its thing
- get a tip from thea truong (thank you for listening to all my rants and giving me good advice) to bolt the ps pump back to the engine backward for good countertorque.
- get ps pump bolted in and i start playing with the impact wrench getting familiar with it. in my testing it out, i forgot to switch the switch back to counterclockwise, put my full body behind it, and boom, strip all the aluminum threads on the inside of the ps pump. pump is toast haha

i then proceed to source a ps pump for a type s (must have "RDB" not "RDA" in part number) and in my search i find out the type s pump is unique in that after 3250 rpms the flow decreases (i'm guessing a different valve or valve actuation) and the steering feel stiffens up for on center stability. pretty cool! but that limits my search big time. all 7 junkyards in a 100 mile radius are stripped of their type s pumps. finally find one in pennsylvania but he couldn't ship over the weekend. finally order it and there is a 3 day snow delay. after 2 weeks, i finally get my used type s pump ($85 shipped) and rebuild that super quick with no stupid mistakes and everything was back and running...2 weeks later haha. i didn't opt for a reman one from rockauto because i know the ps pump is extremely sensitive and i try to get oem everything when possible

long post but i feel there is some useful info plus a few smiles at the expense of my dumb mistakes!







dumb dumb



all cleaned up and rebulit!