Here is the link to the HFL SB:

http://www.in.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/SB/B08-057.pdf

 

OK-just checked mine with everything off and doors closed. The current draw peaks at 2.4 amps then settles at .84 amps. Same reading obtained after letting the car sit with the battery unhooked 45 minutes.

I read anything above .5 amps is a problem. Could it be the HFL module?

 

I had the same thing happen to my car yesterday in the freezing 20 degree cold. This is my second battery (bought this latest battery from Sears, Gold battery I think.) Couldn't start the car. Left it out on the street for 2 days. The Nav was asking for my Radio ID and the windows could barely roll up and down. Asked my buddy for a jump, connected the negative to the ground, and it didn't work. So we connected the jumper cables to the negative post, waited for like a minute, and the car started.

So I'm wondering what's going on with my 2007 Type-S? This is the second time my battery drained like this. I'm about to buy a multi-meter and test the battery as well as bring it in to the dealer and have them fix the HFL. (not sure if this is the problem). I've been searching the threads and that seems to be the only possible solution? I have my doubts. Has anybody else experienced this issue and have it resolved? I love my 2007 NBP Type-S and have found this to be the only BIG issue with the car.

 

Forgot to mention I have a 2008 Type S.

 

Can't the cold kill batteries? That's really cold. I'll say again. Cold really shows the weakness's of a vehicle. My guess would be a bad ground maybe or alternator?

 

Be glad you didn't buy german.

D

 

my car has reliably started on the Acura battery for 8 years even when the temp reached a bone chilling -30F didn't even flicker the HIDs this year during the summer I noticed that the car was taking slightly longer to start and the Acura dealer confirmed it. the CCA was under 400. Replaced it with a 900CCA battery and all has been well. When it warms up it will be time for FI cleaner and new plugs

I did not want to use a new Acura battery cause if they can't make their batteries last at least 5 years, I don't want it.

 

Dealer said that TL's have a .500 miliamp draw. These cars are electric intensive so you can't let them sit for more than a week.

 

0.5 mA as in 1/2 a milliamp? If so, that is next to nothing... From what I've seen, when you have the battery drain issue, the battery is completely dead in 3 days. Compeltely dead, as in the dome lights won't even turn on.... With a 100 aH battery, a 0.5mA drain, will take 83 days to discharge....

Now if he said 0.5A, then that will take 7 days to discharge... But a 500mA draw? That's 6 watts. I highly doubt it draws that much. You can't even get Energy Star Certified with that kind of draw. (My former group dealt with working with the Energy Star Program)

6W is more than double the max power draw for an Intel Atom processor, nevermind an Arm processor. For most consumer electronics devices I've seen, the power target when in an "off" state is on the orders of milliWatts, not watts... If your device is drawing 6 watts when off, something is very wrong....