Dash reflection in windshield
Dash reflection in windshield
Just purchased an '08 Acura TL. Taking the car for a test drive and noticed that when driving directly into the sun, the dash is reflecting back into the windshield. Very distracting. Any suggestions or fixes for this problem?
take a damp towel and wipe down the dash board lightly. Follow up with a dry towel to help get any residual water off.
Then clean the inside of the windshield as dirt and grime can accumulate thus causing that relfection.
Then clean the inside of the windshield as dirt and grime can accumulate thus causing that relfection.
I have always had this problem whether it was dirty or not and its really bad when u armor all the dash . I recently got some polarized Oakleys and they completely take the glare away. Not saying u have to go out and buy Oakleys but any polarized glasses should work.
I second the polarized sunglasses to reduce the glare from the dash. It also helps with reflections a lot, especially when you're driving in bright sunny conditions on wet roads like after a thunderstorm.
LOL Armor all. Keep using that if you want to ruin your dash.
LOL I dont use cheap ass armor all
I use quality products but alot of times dealers will use armor all or some other type of product that creates alot of shine and it causes alot of glare and he said he just bought the car from a dealer
FYI If you use a quality interior conditioner or leather conditioner on your dash it will actually protect it and keep it looking new longer...
I use quality products but alot of times dealers will use armor all or some other type of product that creates alot of shine and it causes alot of glare and he said he just bought the car from a dealer
FYI If you use a quality interior conditioner or leather conditioner on your dash it will actually protect it and keep it looking new longer...
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I never use anything more than Meguiars #40 on the dash but to address your problem try using the Woolite solution on your dadh and it will remove a lot of the dressing that was put on it.
The formula they have sold for the past 20 + years or so, no way cracks dashes.
It may appear too glossy for some, it may be not expensive enough for some, but in reality, it is just a PDMS resin, with a little mineral spirits to increase the "wow" factor, but nothing in it that is the source of the very old 1970's formula that all the uninformed focus on.
Have never seen the new formula cause cracking when correctly applied, which is actually due to the loss of plastizers from the vinyl, same with any of the other PDMS resin based products.
303, Mequiar's, Eagle One (VW's product is Eagle One), etc these are water borne, Polydimetalsiloxane resin formula's, every last one of them.
The present ArmorAll only differs from many other PDMS dressings, (polydimethalsiloxane) by percentage of the resin mixed into the water that is it's carrier to the surface.
Be it Eagle One, Zanio, Mequiar's, Mother's, 303 etc, all the "white-water based" dressings are PDMS.
This resin DOES NOT DAMAGE vinyl or tires, to have that, happen one would have to use the "greasy kid stuff"/"getto shine" products, which contains petroluem distillates and dimethal silicone fluids.
303 has a higher resin content, the maximum that can be used, which is why it cost more.
Most of the mass marketed PDMS are usually around 18 to 20%, most professional dressings are between 22 and 27%.
Cost is an issue for professional detailers, and even the higher resin 303 does not last "that" much longer than a, say 24% content.
Just looks better for a couple of days.
The "UV" protectant adverstising is pure bunk, it is not possible to actually put "UV" blockers in these types of resins and if it could be done, the product would have to be marketed at about 3 to 4 times a higher price, as a UV component is very, very expensive.
The claim of "UV" protection comes from the resin barrier created and the additional shine, which reflects the damaging UV's.
The real advantage of using a PDMS is protection from the far more damaging ozone that is present. This protection is only there as long as the product is.
Very informative wives tale ..... Todays Armoral is no different than any of the other "non" Clear ( white ) dressings
The formula they have sold for the past 20 + years or so, no way cracks dashes.
It may appear too glossy for some, it may be not expensive enough for some, but in reality, it is just a PDMS resin, with a little mineral spirits to increase the "wow" factor, but nothing in it that is the source of the very old 1970's formula that all the uninformed focus on.
Have never seen the new formula cause cracking when correctly applied, which is actually due to the loss of plastizers from the vinyl, same with any of the other PDMS resin based products.
303, Mequiar's, Eagle One (VW's product is Eagle One), etc these are water borne, Polydimetalsiloxane resin formula's, every last one of them.
The present ArmorAll only differs from many other PDMS dressings, (polydimethalsiloxane) by percentage of the resin mixed into the water that is it's carrier to the surface.
Be it Eagle One, Zanio, Mequiar's, Mother's, 303 etc, all the "white-water based" dressings are PDMS.
This resin DOES NOT DAMAGE vinyl or tires, to have that, happen one would have to use the "greasy kid stuff"/"getto shine" products, which contains petroluem distillates and dimethal silicone fluids.
303 has a higher resin content, the maximum that can be used, which is why it cost more.
Most of the mass marketed PDMS are usually around 18 to 20%, most professional dressings are between 22 and 27%.
Cost is an issue for professional detailers, and even the higher resin 303 does not last "that" much longer than a, say 24% content.
Just looks better for a couple of days.
The "UV" protectant adverstising is pure bunk, it is not possible to actually put "UV" blockers in these types of resins and if it could be done, the product would have to be marketed at about 3 to 4 times a higher price, as a UV component is very, very expensive.
The claim of "UV" protection comes from the resin barrier created and the additional shine, which reflects the damaging UV's.
The real advantage of using a PDMS is protection from the far more damaging ozone that is present. This protection is only there as long as the product is.
The formula they have sold for the past 20 + years or so, no way cracks dashes.
It may appear too glossy for some, it may be not expensive enough for some, but in reality, it is just a PDMS resin, with a little mineral spirits to increase the "wow" factor, but nothing in it that is the source of the very old 1970's formula that all the uninformed focus on.
Have never seen the new formula cause cracking when correctly applied, which is actually due to the loss of plastizers from the vinyl, same with any of the other PDMS resin based products.
303, Mequiar's, Eagle One (VW's product is Eagle One), etc these are water borne, Polydimetalsiloxane resin formula's, every last one of them.
The present ArmorAll only differs from many other PDMS dressings, (polydimethalsiloxane) by percentage of the resin mixed into the water that is it's carrier to the surface.
Be it Eagle One, Zanio, Mequiar's, Mother's, 303 etc, all the "white-water based" dressings are PDMS.
This resin DOES NOT DAMAGE vinyl or tires, to have that, happen one would have to use the "greasy kid stuff"/"getto shine" products, which contains petroluem distillates and dimethal silicone fluids.
303 has a higher resin content, the maximum that can be used, which is why it cost more.
Most of the mass marketed PDMS are usually around 18 to 20%, most professional dressings are between 22 and 27%.
Cost is an issue for professional detailers, and even the higher resin 303 does not last "that" much longer than a, say 24% content.
Just looks better for a couple of days.
The "UV" protectant adverstising is pure bunk, it is not possible to actually put "UV" blockers in these types of resins and if it could be done, the product would have to be marketed at about 3 to 4 times a higher price, as a UV component is very, very expensive.
The claim of "UV" protection comes from the resin barrier created and the additional shine, which reflects the damaging UV's.
The real advantage of using a PDMS is protection from the far more damaging ozone that is present. This protection is only there as long as the product is.
All he did was Google copy and paste. Here is part of it. It is not verbatim but you get the point.
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...ash-glare.html
"303 has a higher resin content, the maximum that can be used, which is why it cost more.
Most of the mass marketed PDMS are usually around 18 to 20%, most professional dressings are between 22 and 27%.
Cost is an issue for professional detailers, and even the higher resin 303 does not last "that" much longer than a, say 24% content.
Just looks better for a couple of days.
The "UV" protectant adverstising is pure bunk, it is not possible to actually put "UV" blockers in these types of resins and if it could be done, the product would have to be marketed at about 3 to 4 times a higher price, as a UV components is very, very expensive.
The claim of "UV" protection comes from the resin barrier created and the additional shine, which reflects the damaging UV's.
The real advantage of using a PDMS is protection from the far more damaging ozone that is present. This protection is only there as long as the product is. "
303, Mequiar's, Eagle One (VW's product is Eagle One), etc these are water borne, Polydimetalsiloxane resin formula's, every last one of them.
The present ArmorAll only differs from many other PDMS dressings, (polydimethalsiloxane) by percentage of the resin mixed into the water that is it's carrier to the surface.
Be it Eagle One, Zanio, Mequiar's, Mother's, etc, all the "white-water based" dressings are PDMS.
Enjoy the power of Google making people look genious since 1996.
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...ash-glare.html
"303 has a higher resin content, the maximum that can be used, which is why it cost more.
Most of the mass marketed PDMS are usually around 18 to 20%, most professional dressings are between 22 and 27%.
Cost is an issue for professional detailers, and even the higher resin 303 does not last "that" much longer than a, say 24% content.
Just looks better for a couple of days.
The "UV" protectant adverstising is pure bunk, it is not possible to actually put "UV" blockers in these types of resins and if it could be done, the product would have to be marketed at about 3 to 4 times a higher price, as a UV components is very, very expensive.
The claim of "UV" protection comes from the resin barrier created and the additional shine, which reflects the damaging UV's.
The real advantage of using a PDMS is protection from the far more damaging ozone that is present. This protection is only there as long as the product is. "
303, Mequiar's, Eagle One (VW's product is Eagle One), etc these are water borne, Polydimetalsiloxane resin formula's, every last one of them.
The present ArmorAll only differs from many other PDMS dressings, (polydimethalsiloxane) by percentage of the resin mixed into the water that is it's carrier to the surface.
Be it Eagle One, Zanio, Mequiar's, Mother's, etc, all the "white-water based" dressings are PDMS.
Enjoy the power of Google making people look genious since 1996.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/archive/...p/t-31736.html
Yes, It is cool. You must have made it onto this obscure jeep board as well. Either way there are tons of links and talk about armor all and other products in this post.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/archive/...p/t-31736.html
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/archive/...p/t-31736.html
Ya .. 67 Customs is another very knowledgable detailer ... anyway we have drug this way off topic ..
I've just gotten used to the reflection. Doesn't bother me so much anymore. I can imagine that using a high gloss protectant would amplify the problem. Meguiars is my preferred brand. I'm not jumping on that bandwagon about Armor-All. Not the new formula, anyways.
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