Damsel in distress! Help :(
Hi, I'm new to the site but I have a problem and I'm wondering if anyone can give me some insight on what I should do because I don't wanna run off to the dealer and have them blow me off ( woulnt be the first time lol )
So I bought an 08 TL-type s ( automatic ) this past may with 46k miles on it.. 2 previous owners n car fax was clean .. The car is lowered it that's it on the mods.
I've come to notice that when the car is at a lower gear ( example : going around the corner u let off the gas the car slows well at that point the car starts sputtering almost like its gonna stall but not as dramatic ) and then soon as I give it gas it drives smoothly .. Any body dealt with this before? I would greatly appreciate all the awnsers.
P.s. my car also when it was turn off n parked over night the next day I turned it on n all my radio settings had reset it .. Weird? I do have a system to
Ok I'm done lol
So I bought an 08 TL-type s ( automatic ) this past may with 46k miles on it.. 2 previous owners n car fax was clean .. The car is lowered it that's it on the mods.
I've come to notice that when the car is at a lower gear ( example : going around the corner u let off the gas the car slows well at that point the car starts sputtering almost like its gonna stall but not as dramatic ) and then soon as I give it gas it drives smoothly .. Any body dealt with this before? I would greatly appreciate all the awnsers.
P.s. my car also when it was turn off n parked over night the next day I turned it on n all my radio settings had reset it .. Weird? I do have a system to
Ok I'm done lol
I dont have an automatic, so I cant confirm if thats normal or not.
BUT, I do know that the autos have something called "grade logic"
and is supposed to slow down your car if you let off the gas, just like a manual transmission
BUT, I do know that the autos have something called "grade logic"
and is supposed to slow down your car if you let off the gas, just like a manual transmission
I kno 2 other people that had the same problem 1 had the car brought to the dealer n she said it hasn't happen since n the other told me hers was doing the same n now she needs her tranny replaced.. Someone said it might be a motor mount? .. I know what you are saying about the downshifting . It just starts sputtering at about 2k rpms
I have an automatic tl-s like you, however even with grade logic, its not going to feel like the car will stall. the only thing grade logic does is downshift a gear when going downhill so it wont accelerate by itself as much. If the car really feels like its stalling, take it to a shop to get it checked out.
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It's just the dealer will test drive it they will say nothing is wrong with it or tell
Me its " normal " n send me on my way .. Me being a girl is made worse cuz they won't take me seriously
Me its " normal " n send me on my way .. Me being a girl is made worse cuz they won't take me seriously
I think because TL is a heavy car it looses a lot of momentum on the turn and slows down, as it slows down it downshifts some AZ members have previously described it kind of car feels heavy. But if you'll pay attention to the speed going into the curve and out of the curve you'll notice a significant drop in speed.
On the contrary if you speed into the curve you'll never see that symptom again. That is how I cured it, just speed up into the turn, and it makes driving TL even more fun.
On the contrary if you speed into the curve you'll never see that symptom again. That is how I cured it, just speed up into the turn, and it makes driving TL even more fun.
Lol the problem is that I baby that car like no other .. I drive that car grama style but even if I do that u kno how u start kno to kno ur car and what feels right n wrong n I kno that that feels wrong n I don't want to just get stranded on the road cuz of stupid bull shit lol especially since these cars are $$$ to fix lol
I think because TL is a heavy car it looses a lot of momentum on the turn and slows down, as it slows down it downshifts some AZ members have previously described it kind of car feels heavy. But if you'll pay attention to the speed going into the curve and out of the curve you'll notice a significant drop in speed.
On the contrary if you speed into the curve you'll never see that symptom again. That is how I cured it, just speed up into the turn, and it makes driving TL even more fun.
On the contrary if you speed into the curve you'll never see that symptom again. That is how I cured it, just speed up into the turn, and it makes driving TL even more fun.
Lol the problem is that I baby that car like no other .. I drive that car grama style but even if I do that u kno how u start kno to kno ur car and what feels right n wrong n I kno that that feels wrong n I don't want to just get stranded on the road cuz of stupid bull shit lol especially since these cars are $$$ to fix lol
Also, talking to the service writer costs nothing. I have been known to visit both Acura dealers in my town, and discuss any problem that I do not understand.
And finally, I have made an effort to introduce myself to the Service Manager at the Acura dealer where I have my vehicle checked yearly for emissions inspection. I did that soon after purchasing the vehicle.
Every time I visit the dealer to purchase a small part, I make an effort to check if the Service Manager is in his office, and if he is, I say hello. I do not ask for him if he is not there or busy. Within 6 months every mechanic and service writer knows me by sight, if not by name.
And the only service I have performed at the dealer is a yearly emissions inspection, and yearly brake fluid flush.
If I have a very strange problem, or do not understand the service writer discussion, I just wait a bit or until the next day, and then visit with the Service Manager.
I have taken the same approach with my Chevy dealer. I always try to use the same service writer at each dealership (Acura/ Chevy). Whenever I visit the dealership, if the person is busy, I do not bother them. But if they are just writing up a charge, and not with another customer, I always say hello, and chat for a few minutes.
And a couple of times, when I had a major repair to be done on my Chevy, I bought a dozen chocolate donuts, and gave to my service writer for her mechanics, with special attention to the mechanic working on my own vehicle. That way, it does not seem like I am currying special favor with only one mechanic (which is exactly what I am attempting) - I let the service writer parcel out the donuts.
Trust me, $10 for special donuts is nothing when the bill is going to be $500- $1,000. Don't worry, you cannot bribe a mechanic with a couple of donuts. But it does make them a bit more considerate when they are trying to explain a technical problem to a dumb customer (me) who is having a problem understanding what the heck they are talking about.
And no, I do not visit the dealerships every week, but maybe once every 6-8 weeks. And I always say hello to the person who sold me the car originally, if he is in.
This is just normal smoozing like everyone does everywhere, but it really makes a difference at a car dealership, when its time to solve a really nasty problem with your vehicle.
I am certain we would all like to know how your problem is resolved, with your own car. Good luck
Last edited by dcmodels; Dec 5, 2012 at 12:10 AM.
Not sure if its the same but sometimes even when coming to a stop ahead of time and letting off the gas the car kind of feels like its a manual in the wrong gear and its "bucking" notice this in turns as well and I believe it is just the grade logic....
I have just grown used to it among other things.....Noticed the TL's are just weird and every problem that I and other members have, when taken to the dealer the car is perfect and nothing is wrong. So I don't bother with dealerships much anymore just local shops that I trust and learn as much as I can so I can cut cost down and do it myself lol.
I have just grown used to it among other things.....Noticed the TL's are just weird and every problem that I and other members have, when taken to the dealer the car is perfect and nothing is wrong. So I don't bother with dealerships much anymore just local shops that I trust and learn as much as I can so I can cut cost down and do it myself lol.
Last edited by Paul05TL; Dec 5, 2012 at 01:01 AM.
I already went there got my breaks ( I bought the car n they said they had to do the breaks blah blah ) n they still squeak n squeal n make a awful like grunting noise n it's so annoying n they sent me on my way I told them my car pulls to the right they told me the roads are dome shaped n that's y that happens sent me on my way ( mind u I got brembo brakes and they are shitty ) but anyways I don't want to be friends I want my things done the right way but I do have to say this dealer was horrible and I will never go there if I can help it ..
I'm still waiting on my liscence plate from the car I traded n still haven't heard from them and I called them already 3 times.. .. I do have a shop I go to that I trust 100% with my vehicle and I don't trust a lot of people with my car but I did buy the warranty so if its anything that can be covered under it I deff wanna use it . Another thing to I don't trust dealer techs because I dated a tech and I saw how they would drive customer cars around and they always get beat on .. Now that's the shit I don't like lol ok I'm done ranting
I'm still waiting on my liscence plate from the car I traded n still haven't heard from them and I called them already 3 times.. .. I do have a shop I go to that I trust 100% with my vehicle and I don't trust a lot of people with my car but I did buy the warranty so if its anything that can be covered under it I deff wanna use it . Another thing to I don't trust dealer techs because I dated a tech and I saw how they would drive customer cars around and they always get beat on .. Now that's the shit I don't like lol ok I'm done ranting
[QUOTE=Paul05TL;14196874]Not sure if its the same but sometimes even when coming to a stop ahead of time and letting off the gas the car kind of feels like its a manual in the wrong gear and its "bucking" notice this in turns as well and I believe it is just the grade logic....
That's exactly what it does.. Sometimes alittle more pronounced than others and I tried to read about the grade logic but it didnt really have anything specific just talke about standard down hill driving that was used for .. Idk this car is to hi- tech for me
I had a 05 single cam civic ( my baby ) and then upgraded to this and I'm still trying to figure out all the tech stuff
That's exactly what it does.. Sometimes alittle more pronounced than others and I tried to read about the grade logic but it didnt really have anything specific just talke about standard down hill driving that was used for .. Idk this car is to hi- tech for me
I had a 05 single cam civic ( my baby ) and then upgraded to this and I'm still trying to figure out all the tech stuff
Grade logic is basically to slow you down on down hills and anytime you let off the gas really and to be in the correct gear for both up and down hills but could be wrong as I haven't read much into it.
But I have noticed the bucking feel it does, usually at rpms higher then 2k if I am slowed down enough and taking a turn (close to idle) I can feel it downshifting itself to be in the correct gear but that is it, so mostly higher rpms and letting off the gas is when it happens to me. My 2010 Nissan Titan will slow down a lot when letting off the gas but is smoother and just feels like the motor is being used to slow down which is what grade logic is supposed to be.
Have noticed so many quirks from this car, but like I mentioned above the dealer always says its "normal for TL's" so just kind of got used to them and just maintain the car the best that I can and know that it has plenty left in her....love the car to death though such a sexy car.
Now I will leave it to the pro's and maybe more can chime in and conclude what it might be if it isn't just the grade logic.
But I have noticed the bucking feel it does, usually at rpms higher then 2k if I am slowed down enough and taking a turn (close to idle) I can feel it downshifting itself to be in the correct gear but that is it, so mostly higher rpms and letting off the gas is when it happens to me. My 2010 Nissan Titan will slow down a lot when letting off the gas but is smoother and just feels like the motor is being used to slow down which is what grade logic is supposed to be.
Have noticed so many quirks from this car, but like I mentioned above the dealer always says its "normal for TL's" so just kind of got used to them and just maintain the car the best that I can and know that it has plenty left in her....love the car to death though such a sexy car.
Now I will leave it to the pro's and maybe more can chime in and conclude what it might be if it isn't just the grade logic.
Last edited by Paul05TL; Dec 5, 2012 at 02:12 AM.
I kno 2 other people that had the same problem 1 had the car brought to the dealer n she said it hasn't happen since n the other told me hers was doing the same n now she needs her tranny replaced.. Someone said it might be a motor mount? .. I know what you are saying about the downshifting . It just starts sputtering at about 2k rpms
I have a shop I trust but it dosnt take warranty .. I have to go to the dealer because of the warranty .. They shouldn't charge me anything except if its something that's not covered under the warranty at wich point then ill get it done thru the shop
Hey, as far as your radio resetting, two things come to mind. First, the radio settings are tied to each specific key, so the if you use the Driver 1 key one day and the Driver 2 the next chances are the settings will be different. The second thing that comes to mind is the technical service bulletin TSB 08-021 for XM radio stations. You can easily check your software version. Of course sputter at low rpm and electronics resetting could mean a weak battery. good luck.
Hey, as far as your radio resetting, two things come to mind. First, the radio settings are tied to each specific key, so the if you use the Driver 1 key one day and the Driver 2 the next chances are the settings will be different. The second thing that comes to mind is the technical service bulletin TSB 08-021 for XM radio stations. You can easily check your software version. Of course sputter at low rpm and electronics resetting could mean a weak battery. good luck.
Make sure all the recalls and updates are done, the type s did have some recent ones. I felt what you described above in our MDX and a recall done on the programming made it drive like a new vehicle! I also have an 08 Type S and I have never felt what you described, definitely go back to the dealer and explain, drive with them and show them. Could be a bad O2 sensor? Fuel pump?
Make sure all the recalls and updates are done, the type s did have some recent ones. I felt what you described above in our MDX and a recall done on the programming made it drive like a new vehicle! I also have an 08 Type S and I have never felt what you described, definitely go back to the dealer and explain, drive with them and show them. Could be a bad O2 sensor? Fuel pump?
2. you know how to use the 3rd pedal
http://owners.acura.com/Maintenance/Recalls.aspx
and about your symptoms, does your rpm suffer? or does it just feel like "moderately stalling" ?
The feeling you describe CAN be normal, and I'll explain that a bit below. However if it's past that normal amount it could be a variety of things that shouldn't be to much.
The TL from the factory has had a lot of engine braking power. Some have found this to be a bit bothersome but it's actually something that turns out to be pretty good! In a normal car, say a ford Fusion, you let off the gas and the car will essentially "free-wheel" and allow the motor to spin freely of the wheels and the car will "coast" almost.
The TL on the other hand essentially cuts back on the fuel and lets the wheels stay engaged to the motor. This slows the car down (in an emergency this slight slow down could be a HUGE difference) and as well helps the brakes and other systems be prepared for heavy use. Not only is the car being made safer, but it's being a bit more fuel efficient!
However, if the car feels like it's bogging down almost to where it's like having the car in the wrong gear or your missing a TON of power, etc; then it could be something that requires a bit of attention.
1. Tire pressure, it's something pretty simple but having under-inflated tires will increase the effect that engine braking has, and as well will make your car consume more gas!
2. Fuel, if the fuel isn't good the car won't run well. Please run PREMIUM, esp in the Type-S models! 91+ Octane is required by the car to run well!
3. Dirty fuel injectors -> Dirty injectors can have an effect not only on power, but on the delicate pulse patterns that are changed on a millisecond basis to keep the engine running at peak performance. Using a good fuel cleaner every 5K is a good choice, esp with all the ethanol in the fuel! Top recommendations are Redline SI-1 Fuel Cleaner and Chevron Techron. Both are high in PEA and can effectively clean fuel systems and related parts WITHOUT hurting anything else!
4. Check the air filters, they should be replaced every 30K miles at a minimum! If the filters get dirty or clogged with leaves or something, it's more of a strain on the motor.
5. Check all of the vacuum lines on the engine and make sure they are all nice and tight and aren't leaking, including the ones that go to the motor mounts!
6. Check all transmission components and make sure that they are okay. Pressure switches, fluid, etc.
If after doing all of this, you may have some sort of bigger issue that may need to be addressed!
The TL from the factory has had a lot of engine braking power. Some have found this to be a bit bothersome but it's actually something that turns out to be pretty good! In a normal car, say a ford Fusion, you let off the gas and the car will essentially "free-wheel" and allow the motor to spin freely of the wheels and the car will "coast" almost.
The TL on the other hand essentially cuts back on the fuel and lets the wheels stay engaged to the motor. This slows the car down (in an emergency this slight slow down could be a HUGE difference) and as well helps the brakes and other systems be prepared for heavy use. Not only is the car being made safer, but it's being a bit more fuel efficient!
However, if the car feels like it's bogging down almost to where it's like having the car in the wrong gear or your missing a TON of power, etc; then it could be something that requires a bit of attention.
1. Tire pressure, it's something pretty simple but having under-inflated tires will increase the effect that engine braking has, and as well will make your car consume more gas!
2. Fuel, if the fuel isn't good the car won't run well. Please run PREMIUM, esp in the Type-S models! 91+ Octane is required by the car to run well!
3. Dirty fuel injectors -> Dirty injectors can have an effect not only on power, but on the delicate pulse patterns that are changed on a millisecond basis to keep the engine running at peak performance. Using a good fuel cleaner every 5K is a good choice, esp with all the ethanol in the fuel! Top recommendations are Redline SI-1 Fuel Cleaner and Chevron Techron. Both are high in PEA and can effectively clean fuel systems and related parts WITHOUT hurting anything else!
4. Check the air filters, they should be replaced every 30K miles at a minimum! If the filters get dirty or clogged with leaves or something, it's more of a strain on the motor.
5. Check all of the vacuum lines on the engine and make sure they are all nice and tight and aren't leaking, including the ones that go to the motor mounts!
6. Check all transmission components and make sure that they are okay. Pressure switches, fluid, etc.
If after doing all of this, you may have some sort of bigger issue that may need to be addressed!
Just alittle bit haha
http://owners.acura.com/Maintenance/Recalls.aspx
and about your symptoms, does your rpm suffer? or does it just feel like "moderately stalling
.. I never really paid attention to my rpms all I kno it does it at about 2k rpms when it's in low gear
http://owners.acura.com/Maintenance/Recalls.aspx
and about your symptoms, does your rpm suffer? or does it just feel like "moderately stalling
.. I never really paid attention to my rpms all I kno it does it at about 2k rpms when it's in low gear
The feeling you describe CAN be normal, and I'll explain that a bit below. However if it's past that normal amount it could be a variety of things that shouldn't be to much.
The TL from the factory has had a lot of engine braking power. Some have found this to be a bit bothersome but it's actually something that turns out to be pretty good! In a normal car, say a ford Fusion, you let off the gas and the car will essentially "free-wheel" and allow the motor to spin freely of the wheels and the car will "coast" almost.
The TL on the other hand essentially cuts back on the fuel and lets the wheels stay engaged to the motor. This slows the car down (in an emergency this slight slow down could be a HUGE difference) and as well helps the brakes and other systems be prepared for heavy use. Not only is the car being made safer, but it's being a bit more fuel efficient!
However, if the car feels like it's bogging down almost to where it's like having the car in the wrong gear or your missing a TON of power, etc; then it could be something that requires a bit of attention.
1. Tire pressure, it's something pretty simple but having under-inflated tires will increase the effect that engine braking has, and as well will make your car consume more gas!
2. Fuel, if the fuel isn't good the car won't run well. Please run PREMIUM, esp in the Type-S models! 91+ Octane is required by the car to run well!
3. Dirty fuel injectors -> Dirty injectors can have an effect not only on power, but on the delicate pulse patterns that are changed on a millisecond basis to keep the engine running at peak performance. Using a good fuel cleaner every 5K is a good choice, esp with all the ethanol in the fuel! Top recommendations are Redline SI-1 Fuel Cleaner and Chevron Techron. Both are high in PEA and can effectively clean fuel systems and related parts WITHOUT hurting anything else!
4. Check the air filters, they should be replaced every 30K miles at a minimum! If the filters get dirty or clogged with leaves or something, it's more of a strain on the motor.
5. Check all of the vacuum lines on the engine and make sure they are all nice and tight and aren't leaking, including the ones that go to the motor mounts!
6. Check all transmission components and make sure that they are okay. Pressure switches, fluid, etc.
If after doing all of this, you may have some sort of bigger issue that may need to be addressed!
The TL from the factory has had a lot of engine braking power. Some have found this to be a bit bothersome but it's actually something that turns out to be pretty good! In a normal car, say a ford Fusion, you let off the gas and the car will essentially "free-wheel" and allow the motor to spin freely of the wheels and the car will "coast" almost.
The TL on the other hand essentially cuts back on the fuel and lets the wheels stay engaged to the motor. This slows the car down (in an emergency this slight slow down could be a HUGE difference) and as well helps the brakes and other systems be prepared for heavy use. Not only is the car being made safer, but it's being a bit more fuel efficient!
However, if the car feels like it's bogging down almost to where it's like having the car in the wrong gear or your missing a TON of power, etc; then it could be something that requires a bit of attention.
1. Tire pressure, it's something pretty simple but having under-inflated tires will increase the effect that engine braking has, and as well will make your car consume more gas!
2. Fuel, if the fuel isn't good the car won't run well. Please run PREMIUM, esp in the Type-S models! 91+ Octane is required by the car to run well!
3. Dirty fuel injectors -> Dirty injectors can have an effect not only on power, but on the delicate pulse patterns that are changed on a millisecond basis to keep the engine running at peak performance. Using a good fuel cleaner every 5K is a good choice, esp with all the ethanol in the fuel! Top recommendations are Redline SI-1 Fuel Cleaner and Chevron Techron. Both are high in PEA and can effectively clean fuel systems and related parts WITHOUT hurting anything else!
4. Check the air filters, they should be replaced every 30K miles at a minimum! If the filters get dirty or clogged with leaves or something, it's more of a strain on the motor.
5. Check all of the vacuum lines on the engine and make sure they are all nice and tight and aren't leaking, including the ones that go to the motor mounts!
6. Check all transmission components and make sure that they are okay. Pressure switches, fluid, etc.
If after doing all of this, you may have some sort of bigger issue that may need to be addressed!
How can I check what recals were made on the type s? The problem is that fr past experiences the car will drive like new when I have to explain it to someone else lol I kno u guys have been they that.. But the problem is that it dosnt do it all the time n it has to be like at that certain time n place.. I even try to slow down my car on purpose or take as much corners as I can n sometimes I catch it and other times it drives fine .. Lol it's so annoying but I'm deff not going crazy and I kno it's there .. Lol I'm kinda regretting getting it now .. Should of just bought g35
Call an Acura dealer and they can look up your car see if the recalls have been done...they are free..one was for the programming (shifting and timing of shifts) and the power steering. Don't look back and want the g35... Honestly my dad has an 06 g35 coupe with 110k on it vs mine with 102k and mine feels waaaay better, holding up better and much smoother. Not saying g35s or infinity s are bad but I'm def happy with my Type S. Once u get the problem figured out you will feel much better about it.
I kno I just saw a white one n it was so hot looking lol .. Ill have to call them on Monday n find out
wow look at all these overly friendly replies lol i wish i was a girl.
1. find radio code in owner's manual leather folder
2. A/C off, radio off, lights off everything off and door closed.
then disconnect battery negative & wait an hour
3. put the negative back on
4. close door & start engine & do not touch radio or a/c or window or anything & idle until engine is hot
if you have time, try that
1. find radio code in owner's manual leather folder
2. A/C off, radio off, lights off everything off and door closed.
then disconnect battery negative & wait an hour
3. put the negative back on
4. close door & start engine & do not touch radio or a/c or window or anything & idle until engine is hot
if you have time, try that
wow look at all these overly friendly replies lol i wish i was a girl.
1. find radio code in owner's manual leather folder
2. A/C off, radio off, lights off everything off and door closed.
then disconnect battery negative & wait an hour
3. put the negative back on
4. close door & start engine & do not touch radio or a/c or window or anything & idle until engine is hot
if you have time, try that
1. find radio code in owner's manual leather folder
2. A/C off, radio off, lights off everything off and door closed.
then disconnect battery negative & wait an hour
3. put the negative back on
4. close door & start engine & do not touch radio or a/c or window or anything & idle until engine is hot
if you have time, try that
Lol it's nice being a girl sometimes.. I think it's in the male genes to jump in n hel a girl in distress lol but I appreciate all the feed back

And what am I looking for exactly if I do that?








