Crankshaft Oil Seal Question
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Crankshaft Oil Seal Question
So in the next couple months I will be doing my dreaded timing belt job. Since everything will be out of the way I was thinking of replacing my crank oil seal.
My question is:
1)How do you remove it?
2)What tool do you use to reinstall the new one?
3)When installing the new one is the outer surface of the seal that contacts the oil pump supposed to be dry? And is the inner surface that contacts the crankshaft supposed to be lubed with oil?
Also, I have the same questions as above for the camshaft seals. Are these basically done the same way?
My question is:
1)How do you remove it?
2)What tool do you use to reinstall the new one?
3)When installing the new one is the outer surface of the seal that contacts the oil pump supposed to be dry? And is the inner surface that contacts the crankshaft supposed to be lubed with oil?
Also, I have the same questions as above for the camshaft seals. Are these basically done the same way?
Thread Starter
Middle Finger anyone?
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 843
Likes: 13
From: Charlotte, NC
No. I don't think it's leaking. I was just thinking about doing it when I change my timing belt. Preventative maintenance.
I know there are some Acura and Honda service techs on Azine. Maybe one of them could chime in?
I know there are some Acura and Honda service techs on Azine. Maybe one of them could chime in?
Never did an Acura, but as far as the crank seal, remove crank position sensor, timing belt drive pulley, and naturally the timing belt. Remove the seal, install after lube on the seal lip and crank, then drive the seal in until it bottoms against the oil pump.
Once again, never did the cam seal job on the 3.2 Acura, but it may require the removal of the cam to access the seal after removing the thrust cover.
If they’re not leaking, I wouldn’t do a replacement as the seals aren’t know as a popular item to break down and leak.
Once again, never did the cam seal job on the 3.2 Acura, but it may require the removal of the cam to access the seal after removing the thrust cover.
If they’re not leaking, I wouldn’t do a replacement as the seals aren’t know as a popular item to break down and leak.
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I did mine. You need a shaft-type seal puller to get them out, or some people dill/punch holes in the metal ring and put in screws to to then pull out with pliers (but you decide if you want metal drill shavings near your block). I put a bit of permatex on the outside when I press them in. You can get a seal press at harbor freight for pretty cheap, rent one at Napa/O'Reilly or you can take the seal to Home Depot and get a piece of PVC to put in on - get some PCV and a cap and drill the appropriate sized hole in the cap to slide over the crank. Just press them in equal, or they will bend. The best thing to do is to press them in using the crankshaft bolt if you don't get a seal press - you might need a big ole washer. I did the cam seals too, which are a different size.
I never understood while people change the water pump before it leaks, but not the seals. Neither will ruin an engine instantly when they start to leak. Both are subject to wear and will eventually wear out. Both will kill and engine if the fluid is not replaced. They seem the same to me, just the seals take more effort than the water pump.
My accord main seal (and the dreaded balance shaft seal) both started to leak about 180K. It does appear that the seals on our 3G TL will go at least 105K since nobody complains about them... who knows if they will go 210K, but we will find out. I would certainly do them at the 2nd timing belt change.
The seals are cheap, too.
Shaft type seal puller, for reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Sh.../dp/B000FPYW4K
I never understood while people change the water pump before it leaks, but not the seals. Neither will ruin an engine instantly when they start to leak. Both are subject to wear and will eventually wear out. Both will kill and engine if the fluid is not replaced. They seem the same to me, just the seals take more effort than the water pump.
My accord main seal (and the dreaded balance shaft seal) both started to leak about 180K. It does appear that the seals on our 3G TL will go at least 105K since nobody complains about them... who knows if they will go 210K, but we will find out. I would certainly do them at the 2nd timing belt change.
The seals are cheap, too.
Shaft type seal puller, for reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Sh.../dp/B000FPYW4K
Oh, spray the seal surface on the block clean with brake cleaner.
It is a good idea to change the oil & filter really soon after you have had the engine open to debris with the main and cam seals off. I would do it just after the engine warms up and you are sure that your TB procedure went well.
If you don't know what you are doing, or are not sure that you can press the new one in equally, then just leave them alone. You can do more harm than good if you don't get them in straight.
It is a good idea to change the oil & filter really soon after you have had the engine open to debris with the main and cam seals off. I would do it just after the engine warms up and you are sure that your TB procedure went well.
If you don't know what you are doing, or are not sure that you can press the new one in equally, then just leave them alone. You can do more harm than good if you don't get them in straight.
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