Hey,

I recently bought an 08 TL, and only got a single key with it. I did some searching, and found some discussion of keys, mostly saying that you need to buy a key, get it cut, and then take it to the dealer to link the car and the key. I bought a blank switchblade on ebay, but I'm one that likes to DIY everything possible, and hesitant to take anything to any shop or dealer... so I started checking out some alternatives. I remembered driving past the local hardware store (J.E. Rice True Value in Manassas VA: http://www.jericeco.com/ ), where they had a sign out front advertising that they can copy high tech keys... so, I decided to check it out. Just wanted to make a post with some details in case anyone else is in a similar situation.

TL;DR: It worked, and while expensive ($80 including key, cutting, and programming), it's a good alternative to the possibly $250+ quoted by some dealers.

The guy had a machine that he put the original key into, it read it, and then he said he needed to take a snoop device out to the car to snoop the communication. He took it out to the car, turned the key a couple times, and went back inside and programmed a new key. Then he cut the key, and I was ready to go in just a couple minutes. The total cost was $80.

While I was there, I also had him cut my new switchblade, which he did for $15 (it's a 2008, so it's what I think they call the high security "laser cut" key), so at least it could open doors, and if I decide to program it in the future, it'll be ready to go. I asked if he could try programming my blank switchblade... he said that it probably wouldn't work, but tried anyway... and yeah, it didn't work. There's a locksmith in the same parking lot, and they said they couldn't copy the transponder, but could cut the key for $40. So, it sounds like the key cutting quotes can vary quite a bit.

Some technical details, and possible cloning to OEM switchblade:
I looked at what kind of machine he was using, and it was an EZ Clone Plus, like: http://www.ilco.us/products/automoti...lone-plus.html . You can see a video of it in action here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj2t4ARQZao . If you check out the application chart, you'll see that the TL transponder uses the Philips 46 Encrypted System. That EZ Clone Plus can read OEM chips, but only programs its own chips in the remote to emulate the original. From my understanding, the OEM chips aren't actually programmed... each one is unique, and the car itself is programmed by the dealer to accept each individual key. In the case of this clone, the car doesn't know the difference between the original and the clone, so the car doesn't need to be programmed by the dealer.

The clone keys are a two-part system, where they have a head and a blade. I believe the blade is an Ilco HO03, and the head was an Ilco GTH, which snapped into the blade. I popped this back apart, and there's an insert w/ the transponder inside the GTH head. From a search, the transponder in the GTH head is the Ilco GTI chip: https://www.keycraze.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=10177 . Unfortunately, this chip is larger than the OEM chip, so you can't simply swap it with the original... but in the case of the switchblade, it looks like there's probably somewhere in the case that you could bury it. I'm pretty sure you'd need to pull the OEM chip out, since the car would possibly communicate with that chip instead of the new one, which would cause the car to reject the key. I'm not sure much range the transponder has, so I'd try to get it as close as possible to the ignition, and have the copper coil end pointing toward the ignition.

So, the interesting thing from all this is... it may be possible to buy a blank switchblade (~$30 on ebay), buy the GTI transponder chip (~$25), have the key cut (~$15), and get the transponder programmed (I don't know what they'd charge to program your own). With a little bit of work, you could have yourself a replacement switchblade for around $70, and not need to go to a dealer.

Also, the EZ Clone Plus looks like the same machine I saw at Wal*Mart. I asked the guy at the desk, and he said "yeah, it hasn't worked since we got it"... so I assume that means he doesn't know how to use it, but you may have better luck at your store. It will still require going to your car for the snoop, which I can't imagine most Wal*Mart employees would be willing to do. If yours has an auto center, maybe they could though. Not sure how much they charge, if they are able to do it.

Another interesting possibility is that there's another system that can clone the Philips 46 chip... the Cyclone Pro. Their chips are cheaper, but it looks like their system is more expensive... so I'm not sure how popular it is. But what makes it interesting is that it appears their compatible chip (CX3) is the same size as the OEM, and could possibly drop right into an OEM key: https://www.clksupplies.com/collecti...ansponder-chip . You'd have to find a shop that has that system though. This is the box: http://americankeysupply.com/index.p...oducts_id=5356 , and here's a video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhMbaYngcbA . There may be others as well.

Anyway, I'm not sure if anyone else cares, or if this was all already common knowledge... but I spent a bunch of time looking into this, and wanted to do a brain dump while it was fresh on my mind. Attached are some pics of the keys pulled apart.

Pat

 

Nice write up and a good find for you and fellow VA Aziners. I found this guy on the South Shore of MA a few years back and sounds very similar - Affordable Auto Keys - Affordable Auto Keys Home Troy is the owner and I used him once a few year back to get a 2nd key made for an Accord. Believe I paid around $80 but was able to get what he called the "sidewinder" key like the TL vs. the regular Accord key.

 

Good write up. i purchased a switchblade key for my Pilot and even the dealership I purchased the car from told me they couldnt "do it " which I knew was B.S
Didnt feel like going back and forth with them. I found a mobile lock smith by me so im going to try him out. You've left me reassured that it can be done without dealer intervention. So thats a big plus in savings too.

 

The thing about cloning keys if you only have one, at least in the case of my 2006 TL, is you lose the ability for the car to recognize different drivers and to automagically reset the driving environment for each driver. When I get in my car the display says, "Driver 1 detected", when my wife gets in my car it says, "Driver 2 detected" and the seating adjusts accordingly.

 

Cool... good luck! Yeah, it should be doable, as long as they have one of the key cloning systems. You should ask which one they have before-hand, so you can buy the correct transponder, and get it mounted in the switchblade (rather than paying for a full key at retail like I did).

AFAIK, the memory is only tied to the remote, not the immobilizer key. The remote can easily be programmed without the dealer. In my case, I only had the "Memory 1" switchblade... so I bought a "Memory 2" switchblade (the memory number is marked on the back). Now, whenever I unlock the door with the remote 1, it detects driver 1, and when I unlock with remote 2, it detects driver 2. It starts adjusting before I get in the car, so it makes sense that it's tied to the remote, not the key.

The immobilizer transponder (small chip in the key, which is I'm describing in this thread) seems to just cut the fuel off if the ignition doesn't detect the correct key... so a key can't be used to start the car unless the transponder is cloned, or the car is programmed to a new transponder at the dealer.

Pat

 

Interesting; we don't lock our cars at home and don't use the remotes when we get in, and yet the TL recognizes the different keys. Apparently there is a passive RF transmitter somewhere; I've assumed it was in the key and not in the remote. Maybe I'm wrong.

 

Oh... that's really interesting. I'll have to give it a try with the key only, and not the remote. Unfortunately, my driver 1/2 settings don't really work well at the moment (I need to fix the power mirror adjusters).

Pat

 

Just a quick update... I pulled the OEM transponder from my new switchblade (since I didn't program the car to it), and tried putting the Ilco transponder into it. I used a Dremel to make a pocket in one of the grooves, and it fit perfectly... unfortunately, it didn't work. I'm not sure if it's too far away from the ignition, or the metal from the switchblade mechanism interferes with the signal... but the car just turns over and won't start unless I pull the transponder and hold it closer to the ignition.

So, it looks like the best solution for aftermarket would be the CX3, which should pop right into the existing switchblade transponder pocket. You'll need to track down a shop that has the Cyclone Pro programmer though (maybe the MFR has a shop locator or something?). To remove the OEM chip, I slid an x-acto knife down the sides of the chip to cut some of the glue, dripped a couple drops of rubbing alcohol to soften the glue, then used a couple small flathead screwdrivers to pry it out.

Otherwise, just bite the bullet and get the dealership to program the OEM transponder to your car.

Pat