defurr

2006 TL with 92k miles . . . at high revs, clutch was becoming stiff and requiring the occasional pump to disengage. Eventually (two weeks ago), got in car and clutch pedal was completely limp/flaccid. Dealership said, "Replace master cylinder, and you should be good to go."

They did this, but I'm still noticing some of the same issues (without collapsed clutch pedal): Highly sporadic stiffness and even one scary incident where I disengaged from 4th and could not get it to go into 3rd. Thankfully was going slow enough that 2nd was an option.

I assume I'm inevitably headed for a new clutch assembly, to the tune of about $2000? Just had timing belt done, so not anxious to drop even more $.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Your clutch flex plate is done. Time to replace the clutch

SouthernBoy

Have to ask. What is a clutch flex plate? Never heard of that one.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

replace the clutch.

I had the same symptoms as you. After a high rpm run, my clutch pedal would get stiff.
I changed the clutch and no more stiff pedal

defurr

Two follow-on questions... Will this condition (bad flex plate or whatever is happening) cause my master clutch cylinder to fail again, say, in the next 6-12 months? And if not, are there any other catastrophic failures in my immediate future? Because in its current state, it's not as if it's dangerous to drive, just occasionally annoying. I'm hoping the failure of the master cylinder was just due to the clutch's wear causing me to need to bleed the lines.

I'll get it replaced eventually, but I just got done spending $2500 on timing belt, CV boot, new plugs, new power steering pump, etc. For F's sake, I don't need to be spending yet another $2000 on this thing right now...

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^i would listen to Southernboy as he is our resident clutch guru.
when he says he doesnt know what a flex plate is, that means the above poster used the incorrect terms.

I dont know what a flex plate is either.
How did you know your clutch master cylinder went bad in the first place?

If you change your clutch, it will get rid of the problems. I promise.

Here is my thread.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/take-look-slightly-abused-clutch-797628/

Again, Southernboy is the guy to go to in diagnosing clutch problems.

defurr

Got in the car one day, and the clutch pedal was all the way to the floor. Towed it to dealership, and their diagnostic was that master cylinder was gone. They replaced and at least that piece of it seems fine.

Another piece of weirdness, which they said was related, was that the starter seemed to be freezing up occasionally. If you listened closely, there was a touch of flywheel noise when that would happen. It would always start fine on the second try. So I asked them to look at starter. They said that starter was perfectly fine, but that bad cylinder had been causing clutch to drag, which was occasionally mucking up the starter process.

The starter issue appears to be gone. And I've driven about 80 miles since I originally posted this with no shifting glitches. So, it's certainly not rampant.

ez12a

a clutch pedal that sits on the floor can be indicative of a cylinder problem. Seals are blown and the fluid is not being pressed to where it needs to go. Seems like an adequate diagnosis rather than spending upwards of 700 to replace the clutch.

At 92k though, your clutch may not be far behind depending on your driving style.

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

i think what he called the clutch flex is is the Pressure plate. I would still replace the clutch..

What the hell you spent $2500 on?? that etc. better be a long list cuz what you provided does not added up to no where near 2500

94eg!

You can buy the OEM clutch and flywheel directly from LUK for a lot less than the dealer. The LUK clutch kits are on eBay for $191 shipped.

SrA.Espi18

you kidding right? i got mine from clutch city for around 300 including next day shipping, now i wish i would of thought about looking for it on ebay ... oh well

now to help you out a bit you dont necessarily have to spend the $2k to get your car back into normal conditions, i was forced to replaced my clutch after noticing it would slip and my car would do nothing but rev-higher and go the same speed or slowly grab more speed so i bought the kit for $300 and went to a shop payed the mechanic $300 for helping me out and assisting him, he provided me with everything from tools to paperwork and guidelines.. it was a small shop and he had prior experience on how to remove a clutch on RWD never on FWD so it was pretty much a learning experience for both of us, about 12hrs later i had my car back in the road and grabbing gears better and accelerating more faster than with the old clutch.. The total money i spent on fixing my car was around $700 including clutch kit, labor, and fluids. Now if i get the same problem any time soon or the future i have an idea on how to fix it.. Knowledge is power my friend, im crazy into cars and i know the very basics stuff but know i know how to replace my clutch and pull my tranny out if i ever need to..

hopes that helps you in some way...

SouthernBoy

I also wasn't sure of what was meant by your term, "had been causing clutch to drag". I believe what you are trying to convey here is that the clutch is not completely disengaging when it is suppose to which would cause it to maintain contact with the pressure plate and fly wheel. If this is happening, shifting is going to be more difficult and yes, the starter would be impacted. Most likely, you're in need of a complete clutch assembly. There is a simple test to see if this is happening but only if it happens most all of the time. Jack your car up at the front center jack point so that both driver wheels are clear. Have someone watching your drive wheels. Now start the car as you would normally. Do the wheels turn with the starter? Next, once the engine is running, fully disengage the clutch, apply the brakes to stop the drive wheels, then release the brakes. Do the drive wheels begin to move again with the clutch pedal to the floor?

This will tell you if there is contact when there shouldn't be. Let us know how it goes for you.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

sorry meant to say pressure plate. not flex plate... long day

SouthernBoy

Yes sir... we all have those, don't we?

defurr

Thanks, everyone. Seems if I don't drive it too overly aggressively, it does fine, and there have been no further starter incidents. I know I have a clutch in my future, but hopefully I can make this one last another year. I think I was just pushing it hard, because I was tired of driving a wimpy RDX for 10 days...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

this thread is full of great information for all us 6MT guys out here...