how can I tell if my clutch is going? i have an 08 tl s with 96,000 miles on it. the pedal feels normal, doesn't get stuck. shifts into and between gears with no problem. the problem is once in gear, the rpms will go up when i hit the gas, but the car doesn't immediately respond. it happens in all gears. also, my clutch fluid was low. it was right above the min line. i did top it off.

 

If RPMs go up and speed doesn't then the clutch is slipping. If it's really doing it in all gears then it's bad. Usually you will notice it in 4,5 and 6 first but not the lower gears. When it get's to be the lower gears too then you really need to think about a new clutch sooner than later. Maybe very soon.

 

ok thank you. i was hoping it was some kind of leak and wasn't going to be the clutch.

 

If you're looking for a new setup we have our XLR8 clutch, and we've had tons of good feedback on it! You can find it here: XLR8-CS-J32-DAILY - XLR8 Clutch System - Excelerate's Honda & Acura Store - Japanese Performance Specialist

If you're looking for something simple, then something like this should do the trick: HCK1007 - EXEDY OEM Replacement Clutch Kit - Excelerate's Honda & Acura Store - Japanese Performance Specialist. If you decide to get something like that, make sure you get a flywheel too; OEM Acura should treat you fine. Otherwise your slipping problem will follow you to the new clutch.

If you're looking for pricing on parts or work feel free to send me a PM!

Good luck!

 

Adobeman is correct. Mine would slip in 3rd gear if I am above 4.5k, 4th-6th gear was slipping at 3-4k. it would hang for a second and then it would engage.

When was the last time you changed the transmission fluid? 60k is the first and then ever 30k after that.

Optional but well worth it is to do the clutch valve delete, hybrid bushings, and stainless steel clutch line; IMO night and day difference

 

I am not sure about the transmission fluid. Would that of been done at a regular service at the dealer? I did ask them last oil change if they check the fluid and they said yes. And it slips but only for a second and then catches. Also, idk if I had mentioned that my clutch fluid was a little above the min line.

 

Fluid isn't going to make a difference as when the clutch pedal is out, disengaged, the full clamping force is exerted on the disc. When the disc wears down and/or the pressure plate becomes weak, the disc will not be able to keep up with the engine rpm's/flywheel speed, so this is what you feel, engine speeds up, but no acceleration.

Keep in mind that you'll probably also need to replace the flywheel. This is why most go with aftermarket assemblies as OEM costly.

OEM flywheel, $1130/791
Clutch set $376/263
Pilot bearing $47/35
Release bearing $56/42
If my addition is correct $1609/1121

 

are the OEM parts the ones LUK makes? I am trying to get my husband to just do it for me. I was going to order the stuff, but your pricing is way higher than what i saw.

 

Should be engaged!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

The listed prices are from the dealer, and although Luk makes the OEM parts, I can't say that the aftermarket units are the exact spec of the OEM parts, but maybe someone else would be able to answer the question.

All products || Carolina Clutch and Performance, Inc

 

so i can just call the dealer near me and check the prices on the parts? when i called about them replacing it, they said it was about 3500.

 

the stealership will mark up the prices. I would honestly buy your own parts and just pay for labor = much cheaper

 

If you call the dealer they'll give you the list prices, but the discount can be had over the 'net. For the money, go to Carolina Clutch and get the parts @ $380 and find an independent garage to do the job.

What's your location?

 

ok, i wasn't sure what that link was from carolina clutch. i am in san diego. the garage by my house quoted 1600 plus tax, but that was with resurfacing my flywheel. not replacing. honestly, is it a job that cannot be done on its own? i was going to have my husband do it, so i could just have the flywheel replaced also, and not resurfaced. he is a mechanic. worked on cars for 10 years, and the last 10 has been an aviation mech. he would be able to rent out the garage on base, so it has engine lifts and pretty much anything he needs. i just wasn't sure what else i should have him do while he has it all pulled apart. that and him getting a weekend off to actually do the work.

 

That would be the least expensive, but it isn't a 10 minute job. Never done one, but have him check the pressure plate installation as it differs from conventional assemblies.

 

That's the part with the preloaded springs right? I read somewhere there is a tool you could buy to fix them I guess if they moved in shipping. I know it will take him prob the weekend. But i feel like it's not like we would only be saving like 3/400$ by him doing it. It's more like 1400. And the fact that we could just rent the spot on base and leave the car there and not have to worry about finishing it in one day. I was just trying to figure out if it could be anything else besides the clutch. I have driven manual since I was 17. Never had a clutch go. So I have no clue what I was supposed to be looking for. This is my second tl. First type s. My first car was a gsr and there was a brief period I had a v6 accord. And the way the dealer made it sound when I called, was that these clutches are supposed to last forever.

 

ok, so i just left the dealership and i was able to get them down to 1385 on labor. he said he could possibly go lower. i can bring my own parts, but they won't warranty them. i got them down to 1300 for the parts, but i could order them from oemacura for around 250 less. those they would warranty. their 1300 is without the 9 percent sales tax also. this quote is with the alignment. the independent garage by my house quoted me 1600 plus tax but that was with resurfacing the flywheel and using the luk clutch kit. we went for a test drive and because its slipping in all gears its recommended sooner than later. so basically what is a realistic price that i should be aiming towards. i cant wait on my husband, his work schedule is too hectic to commit to ripping it apart.

 

Wow, Carolina Clutch for the win. My local Napa sells the LUK clutch kit for $282, Carolina Clutch sells the same kit for $196; yikes.

 

the clutch set from oemacura is 262. which is the luk just minus hondas stamp on it. they flywheel is the biggie. but the luk flywheel is also under 200. from acura its 791. their whole thing is them warrantying the parts, which i am not sure is necessary. i could order the stuff from parts geek for under 400 and have them do the work. or just such it up and use the oem with the stamp on it.

 

Not certain as to what warranty you're speaking of as the OEM and Luk is 12 months on parts.

 

true. maybe the dealer was meaning they won't warranty the labor if it wasn't oem

 

rockauto has the parts $333.78. Put in coupon code 6071665954479039 in the 'How did you hear about us' field and get an additional 5% discount, all that is left is shipping to your location.
'08 TL-S; 3.5 V6
LUK 08047 Clutch Rep Set $170.99
LUK DMF 105 $162.79

These LUK parts are as good as OEM. I had my clutch replaced in Dec2015, took the parts to a Honda/Acura specialty shop, labor was $800 before taxes and shop supplies. As long as the shop knows how to install Honda/Acura clutches, I would not sweat the parts warranty, that is were your due diligence comes in, making sure they know there stuff and save.

Good Luck!

 

thank you! acura still wants 1385 labor, how do i find an acura specialty shop? i am in san diego. i am still going to try to convince my husband to do it for me. am i being ridiculous thinking he could do it?

 

Honda / Acura specialists in San Diego - link

 

Not sure if that is an unreasonable amount for you all on the left coast. I only say that because when I was there in SanDiego back in 1999, a gallon of whole milk was $6+, lol.

A good place to start is to Google your city name/zip code with 'Honda/Acura specialty shop' as a search term and see what comes up. Depending on your exact location, unless you are out in the 'sticks' you should have a few to choose from,


lol, if he is mechanically inclined and has the temperament/time/tools to undertake the project it can be done; however, his lumbar spine will thank you greatly if you can narrow down a specialty shop that can give you both a more competitive amount than the dealership.

In addition, if you have the clutch/PP/flywheel replaced, either DIY or paying someone, while you are there with the transmission out of the car, with 96K on the clock, consider replacing the rear main seal; Acura part #91214-RCA-A01; (80X98X8) (Nok). It is about $10-15 for the seal itself; however, if it starts to leak in future, the trans. and clutch/PP/flywheel will have to be removed to replace it, so just be aware.

 

he is mechanically inclined. and on base you can rent out the garages that have every tool and lift necessary. just not sure how long it will sit on base in-between him working and it actually getting done. i did do a quick search on places, and all are closed for the day except one. but when they asked why i needed a flywheel and thought it came with the clutch kit, i pretty much crossed them off the list. i will for sure look for that other part you mentioned and have it done when i get the clutch and flywheel done. thanks for the heads up.

 

The warranty they speak of is labor. If you get a bad part, the dealer will charge you labor again to swap/replace it. Yes you will get the part itself exchanged for free, but you get to eat the labor costs. This is one reason parts are marked up when you purchase at the shop of choice vs you picking them up elsewhere. Just about any shop charges MSRP or higher for parts for this reasons...as well as for big profit.

Some smaller shops could care less where the parts come from as long as they are new...but few dealerships will...although I'm sure there are a few. My local Honda dealer was ok with me bringing my own parts....if it was something they didn't stock. In my case, the timing belt kit they would not let me bring myself, but my engine mounts they would since those are Acura specific parts.

 

yeah, acura said i could bring my own parts but they don't warranty the labor. so i am currently on a search for an independent shop that can do it. although, from the last 5 calls i have made, its not sounding too promising. or they are coming in close to the dealer price and thats with aftermarket parts. friggin west coat and all their smart cars!!!!!

 

go to mira mesa auto techs. they specialize in acuras and hondas, are very good at what they do, honest, some of the lowest prices around, AND they will install parts you buy. i usually work on my own car but when i don't have time or something is too complicated, i take it there and i have nothing but great things to say about them. i've led about 10 friends/coworkers to them and they all love them.

have them also look at any oil seals which are known problems on the TL while the transmission is being worked on

 

thank you! Just called. To replace clutch with oem and resurface flywheel under 1100! What's the deal with resurfacing? Acura was hell bent on replacing. Also which seals should I ask about?

 

you're welcome, they are a great shop! super honest too.

i don't know about the resurfacing vs replacing dilemma, i'm sure there's tons of info in this forum on it already. i am at 115k miles on my clutch but don't have any issues yet "knock on wood". i personally lean towards the xlr8 daily clutch package because i absolutely hate the self adjusting clutch in our oem system. but if i did go oem i might just replace the flywheel rather than resurface. i tend to keep my stuff a while (original owner of my type s) and will probably have my car for the long haul so i would spend the extra money to get it all done during this repair.

just ask if they can see any leaking oil seals when they are doing work (i believe it's the rear main oil seal?).

 

right! he said to replace the flywheel would be 1100 just for the part. so thats basically bringing me close to where i had gotten the dealer down to. i got them to come down to $1160 for the parts and then the labor was 1385. i am the second owner of my car. i got it in 2010. you know because i had gotten a brand new 2006 tl and the salesman swore up and down the type s was not coming back. but that being said, this car is staying for the long haul. my other issue is, because my husband is military who knows where we could be in a year from now. so the independent shops warranties really don't matter.....

 

oh and the dealer price was with alignment and transmission fluid flush. not sure if that makes a difference. would other places do the alignment? is that just a no brainer thing that is included?

 

yea that's a tough call on the flywheel, i don't know enough about all that (yet) to lean one way or the other. that is a lot of money!

i would consider the transmission fluid flush a moot point. you should be putting in the GM/ac delco friction modified mtf in there right away on your own. it's way better than the oem stuff and does magic on our 6mt TL cars. everyone swears by it. i changed it right when i got my car new haha.

most places won't do an alignment and i know mira mesa auto techs doesn't even have that equip, so the dealer isn't necessarily a bad deal. may i ask what dealer is quoting all of this?

 

right, i think they said they would do the trans flush, because i said it was no big deal and i could just do it myself. its kearny mesa acura. i wonder if i could get them to just budge a little more on the labor. i just really need it done! oh and i did look into the friction modified and planned on putting it in. i didn't even ask them if they did it with that or offered it, because i had no intentions on them doing it. i think they were just trying to be nice and possibly help where they could?

 

I'm curious, did they actually use the term "Transmission Flush"? I ask because, unless I'm missing something, there is no such a thing for manual gear boxes. The process is drain, refill. Period, full stop, the end.

 

No. Drain. My mistake I said flush. Meaning just drain and replace.

 

Thanks for the clarification.

 

ok, so if any of you are still reading this, can someone help me quick. i sucked it up and sent my car to the dealer. just called saying something about a back plate o-ring. is this something that is deep in the car and i need to waste $145 on labor to be done? the service guy that called has no clue. also axle seals? i am going to have them to the rear main while they have everything out. there is nothing wrong with any of those above mentioned. just things that are visible i guess while it is apart.

 

Not exactly sure what the 'service guy' is talking about when he states 'back plate o-ring'; however, it sounds like he may be refferring to the 'rear main' seal. Look at the illustration on the first link below, #23 is the 'rear main seal' and its home is located in that #4 case assembly plate, which is located at the 'back' of the engine. He/she service person, who has 'no clue', needs to get clarification of that for you. That is what it sounds like to me.

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...k-oil-pan-scat
a

As far as 'axle seals', it depends on their current condition. When I had my clutch replaced in my CL-S 6speed, I had them done because they had 150K on them; however, they were not leaking at the time. Look at the illustrations below. #16 on the 'clutch case' depiction shows the transmission 'axle seal' on the passenger side. The second illustration shows the transmission 'axle seal' #22 on the drivers side.

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...utch-case-scat
a
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...sion-case-scat
Hope that helps, and 'good call' taking it to the dealership, IMHO. They have deep pockets should you have any problems afterwards and it sounds like the 'labor' you got them down to is reasonable, just don't be afraid to 'raise a little hell' if you are not pleased with their service afterwards.

Best of Luck!