I need help...Real help! So....And I just got done draining the transmission fluid when THIS happened.. WHAT exactly does everyone suggest I do? Obviously the car is undriveable without this fixed.

 

I never even torqued it fully. The thing literally just broke....

 

god dam you must have alot of muscle then.

 

Well I need a solution to this problem. Anyone have a similar experience? Ideas?

 

....Anyone?

 

Im starting to think.. This may be a JB Weld Situation? Look at this picture. When under some pressure it stays fine with the bolt screwed in. Now what if I JB Welded the piece back on? I'd love some feedback.

 

Even with it on as I do with a small sample of Fluid in the tranny it begins to leak where the crack is.

 

Holy shit, you must be a strong mofo. I'm pretty sure you're going to have to replace the case?

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Part number 003, I'm not sure, I would verify with a profesisonal mechanic to be sure.

 

Yeah I looked into that. Im assuming this needs a legit weld done. But I am trying JB Weld first. Will be back tomorrow around 9PM to give full idea if it worked. Even so. I will look into fixing this permanently. IF this JB doesn't work.

 

So I JB Welded it, pictures are bellow. From the sounds of reviews and past experiences. Who knows it may work. I sure hope it does haha.. *Facepalms*

(I put the light real close so it heats it up, so by about 15Hrs, I'll check and see if it holds the bolt fine.)



(Good ol JB Weld, lets see if it works: Update tomorrow)

 

Would have had it welded then tapped.
Looks as if you have JB Weld inside and within the threads, so you may have a hard time inserting the drain plug bolt, and also, when doing so it will cause undo pressure from the inside and may push the broken piece outward. May want to run a tap down the threads first. Good luck.

 

Yes, run a tap into it first.

 

What do you mean by a tap? And I have put the bolt inside and it screws in fine. Im giving it the full 15-24hrs. So we'll go from there if so. Ive checked it and so far it's extremely tight.

 

I would start thinking about a replacement though. Either a case or a used tranny. You could check with Ack05 (I think that's his name) to see what he's got for a used 6MT.

I personally wouldn't trust that to last over the long haul.

 

I'd be worried with all the heat.. metal expanding and shrinking..

 

A "tap" is the tool that cut the threads into the housing as it was being manufactured. The tap would "cut" the JB weld out, so the drain bolt would not "push out" the repaired area (open the crack again.)

 

Where would I go about finding a tap? So what, the idea is to fill the boll with some JB then cut it with the tap? I don't think it's necessary to replace the whole darn tranny because of this or the case. I'll just probably have to have it professionally welded back on if JB doesn't work.

 

So with dripping slowly I drove 15 minutes to the nearest Auto Shop that I know the guy. He's taking it and will see what he can do with it. They may reweld or work on making a better JB option. We'll see what happens. Shitty situation..

 

Any update on this? I changed my MT fluid the same day I saw this post, so it was a good reminder to be extra cautious when torquing it down.

 

Damn! If that fails while driving you will loose all fluid before you know it! I would not trust that except to get to a welder or mechanic. Have it welded or replace the case for sure.

 

The clutch case is about $361. Too bad it would cost a fortune to have all the work done. Definitely a possibility for the DIY type though.

 

I have ran into this before on a integra trans, I used the jb weld for a while until it started to leak again then just replaced the case. Im sure the tl trans is just like the integra where you will have to re-shim the mainshaft and diff if you do get a new case.