nivekov

So I drive an 04 6MT TL with 129,xxx miles. I'm going to change my clutch pretty soon and was wondering If there was really an incorrect way to change the fluid. I've been reading around and I see a lot of people talking about the 3x3 method, but its always relative to cars with low miles or automatic transmissions. Would a regular drain/fill of GM SFM MTF be bad for my tranny? I was only able to pick up 4 bottles at $61 after taxes at my local chevy.

Sorry if this is a repost or anything !

nfnsquared

Single drain and fill for MT...

SouthernBoy

The 3x3 drain and fill is ONLY for automatic transmissions. BTW, are you the original owner of your '04? Reason I ask is because if you're not, whoever had your car before you was a bit hard on the clutch. You shouldn't have to be replacing it at only 129,000 miles.

I hate cars

Lol. I think your expectations are going up on the clutch life a little. Of course, I'm on your side, I believe 200K+ is doable on a one owner car where that owner knows how to properly drive a manual. But an average person getting his kind of mileage isn't *that* bad.

Hey, off topic but I never did find out what you meant to PM me a while back.

To the OP, the auto holds over half of it's fluid in the torque converter so when you drain the "pan", only half of the fluid comes out. That's why we do the 3x3, to mix the fluid and drain it again so we get something like 75% new fluid in there. With the manual it's basically an open sump inside, nothing to hold the old oil in so you get 99% of the old oil out which is why you only do a single drain and fill.

SouthernBoy

Hey there friend, top of the mornin' to you.

When I make comments like this about clutches and the mileage one should expect to get, I have a few admittedly ulterior motives with my comments. I am trying to get them to think about what they're doing and perhaps ask some questions as to how they might improve their techniques to not only increase the longevity of their clutch but also to increase their enjoyment of the driving experience with the knowledge that they know the "what and why" of what they're doing. As for your short explanation for the 3x3 drain and fill for the automatic, that was the simplest and best one I've seen yet on the forums.

Regarding my PM of several weeks ago, I wanted your opinion about something. I'll go ahead and ask it here since others may also wish to hear your response. I know you are very strongly supportive of using the OEM Honda engine air filter for our TL's and I know why you take this stance. It is a quality product and does an excellent job. However, I wanted to get your take on a few others I have used with a new selection recently I found to my liking.

For most of the years I have owned both of my 3G TL's, I have been using the Purolator A25585 filter and when I do, I make sure it is from Israel and not Mexico (yes, the difference is visible). I have also STP and DriveWorks, and the one I found recently (and the basis of my PM to you) a WIX filter. I like the WIX so far the best of the after market OEM replacement lot. It seems to have the highest quality and it has better pleating with more surface area.

The one thing I don't like about the Honda OEM filter is the fact that it is a multi-element filter with an oil wetted element on the windward side (that's the side facing the outside intake stream for you non-nautical folks). As you know, oil wetted filters attract dirt and debris much more quickly than do dry element filters and this begins to reduce flow to the engine (not likely to be felt unless very dirty and under full throttle). The dry element types remain more free of this debris during their service life. I have been impressed so far with the WIX unit and expect to continue using this filter, but would like your take on it if you have any experience or information. Strangely, the box label I saved show part number 46832 for this filter but their website references part number 49063. Can't explain this one.

NOTE: A little further research indicates that one filter is for the Honda 3.0 engines (46832)while the other is for Acura 3.2 to 3.5 engines (49063).

SouthernBoy

As a followup to this response, I am opening a new thread under "Third Generation TL (2004 - 2008) so as not to inject non-topical subject into this thread any further.

I hate cars

Gotcha. I'll respond over there.

I know where your comments were directed, that's why it was funny. It's good that you try and direct people with the correct ways to drive a manual and what they should be able to expect following some simple techniques, not just directing them to the cheapest replacement clutch. For me it was always a game when I drove a manual every day to try and reduce wear. It had about 100hp so performance was not a priority. Slip the clutch at 1,100rpm, get it engaged as quickly as possible and then give it power. When possible I even skipped gears and always rev matched. However, I'm not coordinated enough to double clutch on a regular basis. At 220,xxx miles ironically it was the trans that gave out and not the clutch.... Maybe some merit to your double clutching teachings.

SouthernBoy

You know for me, it's simple. I enjoy learning things about subjects in which I have an interest, and cars fall into that category. As far as I'm concerned, I never stop learning and am not at all opposed to even seeing other sides to things I know. I believe a touch of humility can go a long way with all of us in this regard. For example, it was just last year that I learned our manual TL's use a dual mass flywheel, which I knew nothing about. Now I do.

I hate cars

Humility is a great trait and you've always shown it. If you think you know it all, you're probably not learning anything new. In the beginning I was giving standard advice in regards to which trans fluid and many other items. It's been a big learning curve with these cars and I've been wrong several times. I enjoy learning new stuff even if it means what I thought I knew before might be wrong. It's fun to come up with theories on here but it's even more fun to test those theories in real life. One long term experiment is to use an oil with a high HTHS for the TL's entire life and tear it down right before it goes to the junkyard. The other is to do the same to the trans while running it on a non approved DexIII and Type F fluid for most of it's life. Should be interesting if any of us are still around.