NBPacuraTL

iTrader: (1)

Could a missing Centric Hub Ring of one of my wheels could cause that rotor to be warped? Or is it unrelated to each other?

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

I believe they are unrelated issues. Your hub ring mainly properly aligns your wheel onto the car. Have you been having vibration issues? Do you have an MT?

01tl4tl

It could cause a shake possibly- they makes sure the wheel is centered on the hub before tightening the lug nuts
Try one from a rear wheel and see if that fixes the problem

What brand brakes- whats the prob- we are good diagnosers!

NBPacuraTL

iTrader: (1)

stock brakes. when i drive around, i can hear the rotors rubbing against assuming the caliper, like it would be warped. It happened before and I brought it to O' Reilly's and put it on a rotor machine. It fixed temporarily and came back about a month later (now).

Also on highways, there is a slight vibration thought the steering wheel, but not very noticeable. Thank you!

NBPacuraTL

iTrader: (1)

oh, I'm an auto riding on Motegi FF7's wrapped on 245/40/18

Jesstzn

This could be hubcentric ring if the missing one is on the front.

NBPacuraTL

iTrader: (1)

Yea, kinda figured that. But i wonder what's making it sound like my rotor is warped....I'm just assuming that it's warped because that's how it sounds, but my cousin who work at o' reilly say that it could be my brake caliper or something...

that's why i turned to my fellow aziners

01tl4tl

So exactly how many miles do you have- and what year car
You had the rotors resurfaced- machined-- on the car- or taken off the car to do that?
At what miles? what were the thickness measurements after the procedure- should be on the receipt-
How are the brake PADS?- usually you would replace them when surfacing rotors
Sounds like a good time to get it looked at by a pro
Could be a caliper failing but unusual on a newer car unless brake fluid really bad.
Do you KNOW a centric ring is missing?- you have aftermarket rims and they needed a centering ring? Tried moving a rear tire to the front- or borrow the ring from it as a test,
or go to the tire store and BUY ring~~~

JDM5lugHatch

Buy the metal hub rings if you you even need to buy one at all. The plastic ones are garbage and usually end up melting/distorting. Also, like 01tl4tl mention try moving a hub centric ring from one of the other wheels in the back to the front.

Now if it's not hub rings and it's not the rotors I would try balancing the wheels. You might have lost a wheel weight or slightly bent one of the wheels. Try to find a shop that uses a hunter Roadforce balancer.

NBPacuraTL

iTrader: (1)

So today me and my cousin was installing Neuspeed Accord Springs on my car and when we pulled off that particular wheel, we noticed that the screw heads that held the rotor on snapped !!!!

Do you think that these screws are the problem since the wheel holds on the rotor anyways if you think about it?

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

Those screws dont really do anything. Even in the instructions when replacing rotors, they tell you if you cant get it off, just drill the bad boy out.

So that screw has nothing to do with it

01tl4tl

on the TL brake job-- and the screws are stuck- you just drill them out
Their only purpose in life was to hold the rotors on at the factory while the car moves along the line- with no wheels yet.

Note on the rear brakes- try to save the screws- makes sure the rotors stays perfect tight, so the parking brake system inside the center of it is good to go.

Remember- tighten the lugs in a star- across from each side like you were drawing one-pattern. snug the lugs hand tight with the lug wrench- put the car on the ground- brakes on
tighten again- I like to do it the absolute precision way in 3 stages hand tight is about 50, then 70 then 80
With custom wheels and centric rings- I rotate/revolve the tire a few slow spins after hand tight setting- just to make sure its sitting flat on the rotor before applying full torque.

NBPacuraTL

iTrader: (1)

oh ok i see. yea, I've always installed lug nuts using a star pattern. And to your previous post 01tl4tl, my car has about 74k miles on it and I took off the rotor to get it machined. My cousin works at O Reilly's so he just hooked me up, no receipt. I didn't replace my pads though as the pads are somewhat new.

But he did say it could also be my caliper but just a possibility. What happens exactly when it fails?

01tl4tl

caliper gets partially stuck on, or it is just stuck in one place and no operational- which is evident by a rust pattern on part of the rotor. Have you changed the brake fluid? If its really nasty then calipers are possible- more likely if the car was several years old though- not an 04

New pads with a resurface are pretty much mandatory as the old pads will have been affected by the warpage and grooves. How they look to you- a non pro- is not a correct assessment of condition. Pads are cheap!!! OE pads are not the best known to mankind!
74k and got the rotors redone- it was probably close to the minimum thickness limits when they were finished.
If thats so- you needed rotors anyway.
On average- these rotors get surfaced once at 30k with new pads and at 50-60k they are ready for pads again and the rotors are out of spec/round and need surfacing- but to get the smooth takes off too much metal- so time for rotors- that when many upgrade to performance stuff.

Whats the thickness of the rotors as measured with a micrometer now?
Cuz may just have got them flat and not checked thickness-
you know its critical because they stamp the spec right on the rotor hub
MIN THICKNESS 12MM (example)

01tl4tl

Note- I often post extra info in my replies that the OP may not require- I do so thinking in the future someone else will have same prob and use search feature.
so for them- the extra stuff is there
Not a judgement or attack on skills of anyone- just giving the full description where I can

01tl4tl

NB- you did resurface BOTH rotors correct? and what made you decide to have that done?
vibration on braking?

NBPacuraTL

iTrader: (1)

Resurfacing both rotors as in the front left and front right? Then no. Would that have a major affect in performance? I've decided to resurface it because there was a metal to metal rubbing sounds as if it was warped. It was gone after the resurfacing, but later came up.

I don't mind the extra information as I'm pretty young and came here to learn more about my car and any car in general.

01tl4tl

OK everything in brakes is done in pairs as in left and right side of the car
When you resurace the rotors they must be a minimum thickness afterwards- you have to use new pads- and the rotors must be cleaned with spray brake cleaner- new or resurfaced they still need to be cleaned- surfaced will have micro particles of metal- that could lead to a noise...............

metal to metal sounds as if it were warped???- hmmm
it may be time for you to see a pro about it

01tl4tl

the cuz that does the resurfacing can tell you how bad it was warped- you can see it visibly move as they spin on the lathe, and the blade sounds as it cuts and waits-cuts and waits for the high spot to come around the rotation again.

WAIT!!!
just read back in the thread
you have 74k miles now:
and you put new pads on- lets say at 70k miles-
without surfacing the rotors, and I am guessing you did not clean the rotors with sandpaper or steel wool to prep for the new pads..is that right so far?
Then you got a VIBRATION- was that only under braking??
My guess on the fix- at 74k most of us would have gone thru at least 1 maybe 2 sets of front pads, and replaced the rotors with something beside stock ones.

With one rotor now running true- the other is in whatever shape the fixed one was...make sense so far?
Best fix: new rotors new pads
Next best- turn the other rotor- get new pads and make sure you WASH the rotors with brake cleaner to get all the little shavings of metal off them.

NBPacuraTL

iTrader: (1)

it wasn't warped bad, but you can hear it cut, pause, cut pause. Did not clean rotors, just put them back on. I forgot to mention, after i drove to see if the sound went away, it did, but then there was a whine during braking when the pads make contact with the rotor, but that went away. Vibration could be felt while driving (not accelerating) and light braking. I've only gotten the car when it had 68K (in early December).

01tl4tl

vibration while driving is probably wheel balance related
since this thread started with the centric ring - what happened to it?
ever try the tire swap left to right or front to rear etc-

I would let a real mechanic look at it now- its beyond what you know how to look for and
deal with. If you tried twice and still a problem,,,,call in help

NBPacuraTL

iTrader: (1)

I don't think I have Hub Centric Ring

I pulled off another of my wheels and I didn't see one on there. My cousin said I could have missed a ring so i jumped to the conclusion...stupid me

I'm gonna try everything that you suggested and see if it works. Thanks for helping a noob like me, 01tl4tl. I appreciate it. Check in the photograph gallery very soon for a peek of my car