When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yesterday, I went to the Bronx to pick up a friend, and when I came out, the car all of a sudden wouldn't start. I had and still have plenty of cranking power though! I couldn't hear the fuel pump priming at first when I turned the ignition on. Had to have it flatbed towed home to NJ. Paul, our star master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy came over this morning and determined the fuel pump is fine, the timing belt is intact, everything electrical works and all related fuses are good. He thinks there's a relay that controls all this and he went home to check his repair manual.
Immobilizer cuts power to fuel pump. Can you hear it running when cycling key? Does car starts if you spray starting fluid / brake cleaner into the intake?
Immobilizer cuts power to fuel pump. Can you hear it running when cycling key? Does car starts if you spray starting fluid / brake cleaner into the intake?
Do you have spark? Do you have injector pulse?
Try cranking it with gas pedal to the floor.
The answer to all of the above is a resounding yes and the Fuel pump relay is good. So I'm leaning towards the immobilizer.
So it does start ONLY when spraying something into the intake?
If you can hear the pump it doesn't mean that it's good, but it starts only when spraying then either injectors don't work or you don't have fuel pressure.
How did you check fuel pump? How did you check relay? How do you know it has injector pulse?
In theory immobilizer cuts power to fuel pump, so it shouldn't be running at all if that's the problem.
For checking out immobilizer.
Of course you did check ALL fuses and they are ALL good, right? Take a second look at under-dash #7 (7.5A) and #19 (15A) and make sure that you have power on those fuses when ignition is ON (test light).
There is a possibility that LED just failed. Do the gauge test, this light should (not sure) come on during that test. Otherwise we will dig deeper into immobilizer schematics.
So it does start ONLY when spraying something into the intake?
If you can hear the pump it doesn't mean that it's good, but it starts only when spraying then either injectors don't work or you don't have fuel pressure.
How did you check fuel pump? How did you check relay? How do you know it has injector pulse?
In theory immobilizer cuts power to fuel pump, so it shouldn't be running at all if that's the problem.
For checking out immobilizer.
Of course you did check ALL fuses and they are ALL good, right? Take a second look at under-dash #7 (7.5A) and #19 (15A) and make sure that you have power on those fuses when ignition is ON (test light).
There is a possibility that LED just failed. Do the gauge test, this light should (not sure) come on during that test. Otherwise we will dig deeper into immobilizer schematics
Yes, the fuses are all good and so is the fuel pump relay. It does start very briefly and rough when you spray starting fluid in there, but that's about it. Injector pulse is also good.
Do you actually check those things? I don't want to be wasting time here. Like how you know that injectors are working?
I hope you tried doing what thoiboi wrote before starting the thread.
How about gauge cluster test?
Do you have any bi-directional diagnostic tool? HDS will work, no idea if Snap-On or Autel (or similar) can do that as well. I imagine they should. If needed I can check on my car on Wednesday.
How about jumping fuel pump relay and checking if car will run then?
If you want to proceed with diagnostics of immobilizer then checking power and ground is second step. First step would be checking if there is communication with it, but you need good scan tool. Refer to the table and schematics from my previous posts. (IG1 and LG1 and +B)
Also check if key switch (that detects that key is inserted) works. Car should beep when key inserted and driver's door is open.
I'm assuming thread is about your 2004 TL, right?
Oh and since you went to mechanic, what happened with that? Not trying to make fun of anybody, just hoping to get some useful info.
Turns out there was no voltage between the 7 pin and the related fuse, all he did was remove and re-plug in the connector and presto, we have ignition!
A loose connection.
So it does start ONLY when spraying something into the intake?
If you can hear the pump it doesn't mean that it's good, but it starts only when spraying then either injectors don't work or you don't have fuel pressure.
How did you check fuel pump? How did you check relay? How do you know it has injector pulse?
In theory immobilizer cuts power to fuel pump, so it shouldn't be running at all if that's the problem.
For checking out immobilizer.
Of course you did check ALL fuses and they are ALL good, right? Take a second look at under-dash #7 (7.5A) and #19 (15A) and make sure that you have power on those fuses when ignition is ON (test light).
There is a possibility that LED just failed. Do the gauge test, this light should (not sure) come on during that test. Otherwise we will dig deeper into immobilizer schematics.
Hello I'm Jermall
I could definitely use
some help with this issue...
My immobilizer is just flashing green a second a part none stop.... The vehicle just cranks no start I'm thinking about getting a new immobilizer unit and see if that works will I have to pay for reprogram fees
If you decide to replace the immobilizer unit, you WILL NEED TO reprogram it. I believe only dealer can do that.
But first I would figure out why it's blinking. What if sensor/receiver near the ignition switch went bad, and not the unit itself? Also try different key if you have one.
