Jackass

Remember most Firestones are independently owned and operated and it is luck of the draw if you get an honest one or not. I have used two locations in KC over the past 15 years...one has been pretty consistent and good the entire time, while the other one has been hit and miss over the years as the owner and management changed around.

When rotated and properly aligned, expect 50k miles out of these. They are not performance oriented at all, but generally stay smooth and quiet. Watch out in winter once they get past 50%...they become pretty useless at that point.

NoTLoud

Good to know on the Firestone's. I will look around at the reviews in my area.

Nice! I have no idea how many miles are on them except for the 6k I've put on them. I understand they are the OEM tires. Overall, it seems my car was taken pretty good care off before I bought it. Outside of all of the preventative stuff I have done, it hasn't cost me too much. A battery, O2 sensor (free under good will), and a starter are all the car has absolutely needed. The other preventative/quality of driving items are what has cost me the most. The struts going almost immediately sucked too, but it gave me an excuse for coilovers.

Now the axles being bad on the other hand....

NoTLoud

Replaced my top transmission mount two weeks ago now. The shaking at high speeds is still present. Upon further investigation, the lower transmission mounts that I could easily see is completely torn in half. I am ordering both lower mounts and will replace them both at the earliest convenience.

I am getting fairly bad cabin vibration at idle. It seems to get worse and worse each time I replace a bushing. After the LCA compliance bushings, it go worse. Then I tracked down the top tranny mount that was bad.

Now I have noticed that the one lower mount is completely trashed. Vibration at idle is quite bad and noticeable. I am getting rattle in the dashboard, especially in the center near the center channel speaker. There is another rubber part that has failed that looks like it is some sort of bushing between the frame and sub-frame of the car. I will post a separate thread to identify soon.

On top of those two bushings, the stabilizer bar bushing on the drivers side has (you guessed it), also failed!

Still haven't gotten the will power to check the rear mount.

Lesson here: Don't buy a car that sat for the majority of its last 3 years on the road. Luckily all of this is relatively affordable and not terribly time-consuming.

nfnsquared

Vibration at idle would point to a motor mount, wouldn't it?

NoTLoud

I'm thinking it could be the rear engine mount. I haven't got a chance to inspect that one yet. I'm not quite sure how to tell if it's bad by inspecting because it looks like it is covered by rubber booth, kinda like the front.

I am fairly confident (like 95% sure) that the front and side engine mounts were done before I bought the car. The rubber looks brand new on these and the salesman told me the technician replaced two mounts. The salesman was kind of a clown though and didn't really know exactly what was being done.

Given the condition of some of the other rubber mounts and bushings, it wouldn't surprise me if the rear mount was shot as well. The lower tranny mount in the rear is completely shot. I couldn't quite make out how the front lower mount looked. I have ordered both though.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

^ also check to see if the "replaced" front mount has the vacuum line hooked up. If it isn't you won't have the same performance as the oem mount which could lead to more shaking

NoTLoud

Thanks, I will take a look. Bought the car from an Acura dealer, so I imagine the parts they used were all OEM and done correctly, but you never know.

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)

You are expecting a lot from dealerships!

NoTLoud

Haha true, but I believe the parts have the correct lettering on them and are OEM. It was a Hendrick Acura dealership, which, I won't buy from again, but they do seem to have a good reputation.

What I have been meaning to do is go and get a print-out of the service. Even though it's been 6 months, I imagine they could do this for me as it should still be in their computer system. I want it for my records and to avoid guessing what they replaced. They did the timing belt and water pump as well, but I am nervous they only swapped the belt and not the tensioner or other components.

Le7316

75 - 80mph , did you do the balance to your wheels yet ? You'' be surprised if you haven't.

NoTLoud

Yeah, I even had them re-balanced this weekend. Wheels are currently XXR's and I know cheap wheels can cause issues because, well, you get what you pay for. Tires are brand new, Continental Control Contact Sport A/S's. Nice tires.

Had an alignment done this weekend as well. Firestone would not give me a lifetime alignment because I was on coilovers, which I thought was bullshit. Probably shouldn't have told them.

I would say about 2/3rd's of my shaking went away when I replaced my lower, rear transmission mount. It was completely sheared in two. Getting the new one in required some effort to avoid dropping the sub-frame.

Still mild shaking in the wheel and floor pan, but certainly better.

Definitely still thinking axles are the solution. Either that or I potentially have a bad wheel bearing or hub in the front, but I'm not sure.

thoiboi

BRUH

all this time you didn't mention you had aftermarket wheels?! Did you make sure and check if the center bore of the XXR were the same of the TL (64.1?) If not, you'll have to have hub centric rings else, vibration city!

There was no mention of this earlier but that could be your culprit right there.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

That's bs what Firestone told you!!

NoTLoud

I have hub centric rings that are the right spec for the wheel to the TL's hub. I had the issue with the shaking and shuddering before I put the wheels on with the stock wheels and coilovers.

Yeah, I should've walked out the door and tried another one. Won't be going back to that one, that's for sure.

thoiboi

okay, that helps. I didn't see that covered in the original post so wasn't sure


back to the drawing board!

dpenhead

Yep. Hub-centric rings are a must with aftermarket rims...as I too found out after being told it didn't matter by 'RimTyme in Charlotte' and ruining a set of directional Z-Rated tires in a short amount of time. (They refused to replace the tires or work out any compromise, btw. And, they still sit in my garage...)

Your shuddering is probably from the motor/tranny mounts needing to be replaced. We went through that. I also think your axles need to be replaced. What did those cost me? $120 total? 2 Hrs and flatbar later they were snapped in and out... The vibration at 75mph comes from the axles getting out of line and starting to wobble. (We experienced the same exact thing and replacing the axles fixed it.) I would think that is about when they might lock up and you could crash your car. That wreck would suck... So, replace the remaining tranny mount, or engine mount, whichever one you had left, and both axles, then see where you stand. Doing that fixed our problem and I believe it will fix yours. The wobbly axles and the motor mounts being worn out amplify each of the problems. The axles probably wallowed out the rubber bushings, and the wallowed out rubber bushings probably helped the axles to get wobbly. Which came first? Who knows... Replace both.

By the way, I've shopped at Hendricks too because it is all that is out there around Charlotte for parts. They aren't as bad as any of the others you can drive to within an hour or two, so I would recommend just accepting the fact that they are as good as it gets and trying to smile through the experience. Otherwise, the only other options I have come across are a junkyard near Cary, NC and various online companies, such as some of the ones on this forum that spend a lot of time trying to help us all out for FREE. Personally, I trust the people on this forum and have been using their parts since we bought our 2004 Acura TL... but, sometimes I have to suck it up and drive to Hendrick's. It's just the way it is.

NoTLoud

Yep, sorry, I put the coilovers on about a month before I finally got tires to put my wheels on. Problem has persisted across both sets of wheels. This make me believe that the tires were not the issue and neither was the balancing.

As of now, all but two mounts have been replaced between the engine and transmission. I replaced my top and lower, rear transmission mounts. This stopped a decent about of the steering wheel vibration at speeds 70+. There's definitely still some issues, but it is better. My lower mount was sheared in half, so safe to say it wasn't doing anything.

Front and side engine mounts were replaced by Hendrick right before I purchased the car. Every mount I have replaced has been with OEM parts.

Only mounts I haven't replaced are the lower front transmission mount and the rear engine mount. I get bad rattle from the center speaker grill when stopped in Park or Reverse. So potentially my rear engine mount is bad, but I haven't been able to get a good look at it.

As far as the axles go, I think that will be the next part I replace. I want to rule out wheel bearings first though, as they are cheaper.

Anyone who sees this:
When I have the car on jack stands and I move the front wheels forwards then backwards or vice versa, I hear a clicking sound as soon as I change the direction of the wheel. I can't quite identify where the source of the noise is, but it makes the same sound when done on both sides.

I know one of the symptoms of a bad axle is clicking while turning, but I haven't noticed that so much. When I have the car in Park and turn the wheel side to side, I occasionally will hear a faint clicking.

nist7

^^^From my personal experience, when I had my Accord 3 years ago I also heard clicks on turning the wheel and in the end it was caused by a badly leaking CV boot (ie, the axles lost all the grease) and from what I remember axles/CV boot is a common problem if you hear clicking on turning the wheel.

Hope it helps.

dpenhead

I am also willing to bet you that since all of these rubber bushings are bad (including the two you are putting off replacing that are both making your problem feel worse than it really is), that your lower control arm bushings are also bad. I replaced mine with LCA 'PCI Spherical Bearings', instead of the rubber bushings, and the difference is unbelievable. They are about $200+ for the front from the company that is around on this forum to lend a helping hand, but you will not regret that purchase once everything is fixed. They are stiffer on the concrete interstates driving down let's say I-285 NW, but if you pick a part of the loop that is asphalt you will fall in love with your car all over again.

I also needed two new tie-rod ends and two upper A-frames because they were stiff and the knuckle was loose. After replacing all of that on both sides, I then got an alignment and everything has been PERFECT since then.

The only car shop in the Charlotte area we will take our car to now is 'Howard's Automotive' in Rock Hill. They know their stuff and are real cheap for the quality of work they do. It's not a big place, but I swear to you that those people understand Acura's like ours. I think I remember the owner saying she owned one.... We've taken it all over the place in Charlotte and this is the only shop I've found that has known more about these cars than me, and I don't know really all that much about them... There is nothing more enlightening than taking a TL LCA to multiple 'performance shops' and no one has EVER seen spherical bearings pressed into any part of the suspension. That's your cue to turn around and walk back out... That is my advice to you.

NoTLoud

I am going to start paying more attention and listening for sounds while turning. Could be that the clicks are very faint right now.


I've just replaced the LCA compliance bushings with the OEM ones. If they go again, I will look at replacing with the PCI spherical bearings. These were actually the only part that I have paid to have done because I didn't want to run into any issues pressing the bushing out and no longer have a car to drive.

The front lower transmission mount looked fine, but I couldn't loosen the bolts on the front engine mount, even with my biggest breaker bar, to get the engine and tranny high enough to get it out. When I go home and have access to my Dad's air tools, I'll see about replacing it. I have the part on hand.

Chances are the rear engine mount does need replacing, especially with the amount of cabin vibration I am getting when stopped in Drive. Like I said, my center speaker grill rattles like crazy. I even put some sound deadening in the dash and it didn't help.

The rest of my bushings look to be in good shape, with a few exceptions, like the LCA strut fork bushing. Replacing the bushings and mounts that were clearly bad has helped quite a bit, but I think that the real problem still lies in the axles or wheel bearing. Even though the bearing is far cheaper, I think I will go with replacing the axles first and seeing where I am at. Replacing the front wheel bearing requires a press and I don't have access to one here in Charlotte.

Dynomitez

I have and had all these issues the bad vibration in the cabin is from your rear motor mount.. I had replaced all of mine and used aftermarket mounts for the motor mounts and I had the worst vibration will in drive at idle..replaced both the front and back with oem and the vibration is completely gone! But I have what I think is the wheels feel wobbly when I mash the gas hard.. only in 1st right before it goes into second... if I take off slowly I feel nothing .. car has no vibration after that even when doin 75-80.. I'm wondering if that is the axles? I also have to replace lca bushing..

NoTLoud

I will definitely look into getting the rear engine mount replaced then. It seems to be a little intermittent on whether or not the car will shake or not. Sometimes I will get a bad shake throughout the car. I'd say it's similar to when you get a chill and your whole body shakes, but it's the car.

Friday I replaced my driver's side axle with my Raxles that I ordered. I could not get the lower ball joint off my passenger side, so I am hoping to get that replaced this weekend with the help of my dad. Shaking/shuddering still exists during acceleration, but it seems to be slightly better with one of the axles replaced.

I put my OEM wheels back on on Monday. My shaking when I hit 70 is gone. Steering is also tight like it should be at speeds. I shouldn't have bought the cheap wheels. I am going to have them road-force balanced, but I don't have high hopes. I mean, one of the wheels currently has 18 weights on it, like WTF. Don't buy XXR's, even though the 530's do look dope on the car.

If the car still drives like shit after I get them road-force balanced, then I'll dump them for cheap and buy some other wheels. I am thinking about some MB Battles. They look cool, can be found in Bronze, and I hope are higher quality than the XXR's.

With a 225/40 tire, I am looking at being able to fit between an 8.5-9" width wheel to replace the 8.75" XXR. The XXR's fitment is very nice, the wheel sits almost 100% flush with the fender, so without worrying about rolling fenders and unnecessary camber (I hate Stanced cars), I think the 8.5-9" width is ideal for this car.

Dynomitez

Please update after replacing both axles

NoTLoud

Okay, as of this weekend, both front axles have been replaced. Not as easy of a job as I was hoping for. The drivers side went relatively smooth. The passenger side is a different story. I could not free the ball joint by taking a hammer to the LCA, so my Dad and I used a ball joint seperator to get the lower ball joint out. Okay, cool, that was easy. Took us a good bit of messing around to get the axle out, but the trick is to just get a pry bar and hit it from the opposite end it pushes in. Came out first hammer hit. Install was super easy, everything was going smooth, UNTIL we go to put the lower ball joint castle nut back in. First thing I notice is it does not seem to be seating correctly in the control arm and the boot now does not cover the enitre ball joint. The castle nut is also just spinning the ball joint. We used a little trick to try and captivate the joint and the nut goes on a decent ways, but there's no way to torque the nut, it just keeps spinning.

My Dad can't find his ball joint press and we have run out of time. It's Saturday and Easter was Sunday. I gotta hit the road Monday to drive back to Charlotte. So now I had to pay $350 to have a Mr. Tire to replace the lower ball joint on Monday,. .

So all of this, my shuddering/vibration is gone during acceleration right? NOPE. There's different symptoms now. I get the shudder from about 0 MPH to 25 MPH. Fairly frustrated at this point. I do believe the car needed new axles, as the vibration I was getting at about 40-45MPH has gone away.

I only have one final guess at what could be wrong, the rear engine mount. If the car seems to want to down-shift, and then I hit the gas again, it will give the feeling of bouncing back and forth. It's hard to explain exactly, but I am fairly sure it's my rear mount.

I have now replaced every single other mount that was bad (upper trans, lower rear trans, and sub-frame mount) and the front and side mounts were replaced with OEM by the dealer at 100500 miles. The LCA compliance bushings were also replaced as mentioned in my OP.

NoTLoud

I should also add, with everything else I have done, the car feels solid when driving (no other issues) from 25MPH to 110MPH (highest I've gotten it). I swapped my OEM wheels back on and my shaking at 70MPH+ went away, so I know it's an issue with my aftermarket wheels. Even at 100MPH the car felt very good. It's been awhile since I've had a car that felt that solid at highway speeds. My '03 Malibu I had previously was a piece of shit, same issues with shaking at 70+MPH, but the wheels were OEM and I had the balance checked multiple times.

srg818

Did you use hubcentric rings to center the wheels on the hub? That can cause vibrations and shaking especially at higher speeds and no amount of wheel balancing would fix that. My XXRs are smooth as the OEM waffles even up to 100mph.

NoTLoud

Yeah, I had the correct hubcentric rings on the wheels since I put them on.

I believe balancing is my issue because I have counted the weights on two of my wheels that had a bunch, one had 15, the other had 18, which is ridiculous. The other two wheels have less. I even had the wheels re-balanced, but it wasn't on a roadforce balancer, which is why I want to try that before I get rid of the wheels.

Otherwise, I am not leaning towards the VMR 710 wheels.

jzhu625

iTrader: (2)

I'm on same boat with you at the moment.
bought the car at 121k
shake after 60mph+
shake once part car in R or D, no shake when in P or N. believe either transmission mount or one engine mount.
I hope is not axles since you replaced yours and improved the shaking issues.

history of the car, owner replaced the front and pass-side engine mount.

NoTLoud

So, I replaced my top and rear, lower tranny mounts. The rear, lower tranny mount was sheared in half, so it wasn't doing anything. Top one has an "X" pattern and one of the sides was torn. My shifts from 1st to 2nd have always been a little jerky since I bought the car. All the parts I have thrown at it have made little improvement.

I have very noticeable shaking from 0 - 25MPH and then it goes away. It's super annoying for me because I am in stop and go a lot during my commute. I was getting some shake while turning and accelerating, especially while turning left, but I have been paying attention and since replacing the axles and that seems to have mitigated. Don't believe it's any sort of transmission issue because the car will shift gears, no issues, and the problem persists through 1st and most of second, but not all of 2nd.

I think my best option is to replace the rear engine mount at the point. If that does not alleviate the problem, then I am absolutely out of ideas. All of my other bushings and ball joints look like they are in good shape.

Re-cap of all parts, car is sitting at just over 108k miles:

• Axles are brand new and Raxles, so better than OEM. Driver's side replaced at 107068 and passenger side at 108036.
• Coilover put on at 1057xx. All torquing was done with the LCA lifted with a jack to simulate car being under it's own weight.
• LCA compliance bushings were replaced at 1057xx, right after coilovers (needed alignment regardless).
• Upper transmission mount is OEM and was replaced at 105995.
• Sub-frame mount on driver's side was replaced with OEM at 106700.
• Lower, rear transmission mount was replaced with OEM at 106500.
• Front passenger side lower ball join was replaced at 108050. They told me it was a Moog ball joint.
• LCA themselves are OEM and besides hammer marks from trying to free the ball joints, are mint.
• Tie rods are OEM and in great shape.
• Upper control arm bushings look mint.
• Suspension fork looks fine. Strut locking bolt is torqued to spec.
• Axle nuts are torqued to spec.
• Wheels are torqued to spec.
• Front and side engine mounts are OEM and have 8k miles on them. Replaced at ~100500 miles

So, I am out of ideas.

NoTLoud

I should add, and it was discussed earlier in the thread, that the coilovers and LCA compliance bushings were done essentially simultaneously. I happened to notice the shudder right afterwards. So as someone mentioned earlier, I am thinking that replacing some of the other worn bushings/mounts has only exposed that one mount is bad. As I have stiffened up other items, it has made the bad mount (gotta be rear engine mount) even more obvious.

I believe that after all of the items replaced above, the shaking/shuddering is the worst it has ever been now.

I can only hope the rear mount solves my issues. Hoping maybe someone else can confirm my suspicions because I spent a lot of money to still have a car is insufferable to drive around town.

jimmyfu

Are you still lowered? Can you raise to stock height and see if problem still persists? If I remember correctly this issue stemmed from first lowering, and then maybe raising a bit, but to what extent I don't know. Also, I remember reading about this, but this was more for '04 in 5th gear. Still talks about the RPM range though:

https://community.cartalk.com/t/vibr...ura-tl/54684/4

From the TSB:

""5th Gear Vibration or Drone"
Applies to : 2004 TL with A/T

"Symptom: A vibration is felt or a drone is heard when driving in 5th gear between 50 and 60 mph at about 1500 rpm. The vibration may be more pronounced while accelerating up a slight incline"

The Service Bulletin Corrective Action is to install a dynamic damper onto the bottom of the front subframe near the rear engine mount."

Now again, this is a 3rd gear vibration we're talking about and so it may not be that - it could be that the tranny was starting to die. The '04-06 automatic transmissions were notorious for having bad pressure switches which caused the premature failure of the entire transmission.

This goes back to how I mentioned I had the torque damper for my MT; they may make one for the AT as well. I believe my issues were due to the aftermarket torque damper just falling apart (no thread locker), which then caused some of the other mounts to rip. Progressively after replacing torque damper, upper trans, lower front, lower rear (in that order) I can say that most of the violent shudders have been reduced by about 90-95%. May re-replace the lower front as it's not OEM but by DEA, and I still have yet to tackle the rear motor mount.

jimmyfu

And print outs from the TSB:

NoTLoud

I have the vibration at 50MPH and 1500 RPM, but it is much different than what I am experiencing from 0-25MPH.

I honestly don't think this is a transmission issue, however I am not going to rule it out. Sounds like it could be an issue with the torque converter, but I am seriously hoping it's not.

The timing of this has all been fairly coincidental.

I lowered the car on a Sunday and had it in a shop Monday to have the LCA compliance bushings done since the car needed an alignment for both, so I figured I would knock them both out and get one alignment. LCA compliance bushings were not in bad shape, but they were torn on both sides. I noticed the shudder for the first time driving home Tuesday from work. Based on replies in this thread and some of the rougher shifts I was feeling, i decided to inspect the upper transmission mount. Sure enough, it was bad and I replaced it. However, after a couple days, I noticed the problem was persisting, if not worse than before. So I get under the car and look at the lower transmission mounts. Front, lower seems fine. Rear, lower mount was torn in half. I replaced that about a month ago and since then the shudder has remained the same, it's fairly bad. Certainly very noticeable upon light acceleration. If I gun it a bit, it seems to go away. Essentially, as I replaced other mounts that were bad, the issue has gotten worse each time, which also leads me to suspect the issue is mount related.

I replaced the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches almost immediately after I bought the car. The car shifts smoothly through all the gears. It is only a little jerky on lower RPM between 1st and 2nd, but I believe this could also be related to the rear engine mount.

Sounds like the issue could be EGR related, but I believe my next step is to replace the rear engine mount and see if it helps.

I can't be paying for a new transmission right now, so hopefully the $90 mount fixes the issue.

NoTLoud

So I have been doing research on the potential of torque converter failure vs whatever else could be causing my shuddering issue.

I have seen a post by I hate cars that mentioned shudder would not be caused by an engine mount, but almost always the torque converter.

I have been messing with some things and have been obsessing with what is causing this issue and trying to find the root cause.

What I have found is that the issue does not go away in the tip-tronic, manual shift mode. However, what I noticed in the manual mode was that at higher RPM's, if I let off the gas, the car would sort of bounce itself back and forth. Similar feeling to the full auto mode when I get back on the accelerator as I can feel the car wanting to up or down-shift. For example, I am going down a hill, the car is about to up-shift to drop the RPM's, but if I hit the accelerator, the car seems to almost rubber-band itself. The car just feels really jerky when I replicate this.

Another thing I have noticed is that if I am turning while accelerating the shuddering seems to be less substantial.

With torque converter failure, I have seen some videos of people's RPMs dropping while holding a constant speed. I have not had any issues with RPM drop. The car does not seem to be doing anything out-of-the norm while it is actually shifting gears, except for the somewhat consistent rough shift from 1st to 2nd.

The last thing I have noticed is that the issue seems to become more prominent as the engine/car warms up. The last two days I drove, it was a little cooler outside and I didn't notice the issue as much when I began driving, but it popped back up as soon as the engine was warm. My guess here is it is either one of two things: when the rubber is cooler, it is stiffer OR as the transmission warms up, the fluid is thinning and then the TC is getting starved of fluid.

So am I just grasping at straws here and hoping that the rear engine mount is really the issue or is there still high potential of TC failure? Would replacing the TC clutch solenoid have potential to alleviate the issue? I saw it mentioned in another thread. I could see the TC clutch solenoid causing similar issues to the pressure switches, but with the TC. I have read several places that torque converter failure is usually felt at 35-40MPH, while I am having symptoms from about 5-25MPH.

Regardless, I am placing an order for the OEM rear engine mount and the dynamic damper for the sub-frame. Praying that this resolves this headache.

jimmyfu

You and I are having the exact same issues, and we're essentially both trying to fix this the exact same way too. The only difference is that you have an automatic, and I have a manual.

For me the vibrations were most prominent in 2nd gear in the lower RPM range, and also lessens when i'm turning even 3 degrees. I don't believe this is an issue with the torque converter as vibrations incrementally lessened as I kept changing out mounts. The only one I have left to change is the rear motor mount, and maybe the lower front and upper transmission mounts as they weren't OEM.

Good luck with the rear motor mount and dynamic damper! Def want to hear updates once they've gone through.

NoTLoud

Yeah, I just went and re-read the entire thread earlier today and I am now having the exact same symptoms as you. Upon driving today to lunch, I think the issue seems to be worst from 5-10MPH in 1st gear, and 20-25MPH in 2nd gear. One thing I am realizing I need to do is see if there is a particular RPM range in those two gears that it's happening at. My guess is the RPM's are the same and that particular RPM range is causing the car to shudder/vibrate because we both have a bad rear mount! I do know that it is in those lower RPM ranges though because I rarely accelerate very fast, usually it'll shift in the 2k - 2.5k RPM range. I have been taking it easy with this car because I know the trans is a liability, but it's fun to hit VTEC on the occasion.

I have the opposite issue as you in terms of vibrations though, it seems each mount I have replaced has made my issue worse. It wasn't terrible until I replaced the rear, lower trans mount, which as I have mentioned, was torn in two.

Hopefully I have the rear mount here by Saturday and can get it in this weekend because this is driving me crazy!

The fact that you are having the same issue makes me feel better that it is not an issue with my transmission though!

NoTLoud

Frustrating day, but I did fix one issue.

I was attempting to replace the rear mount today, but I could not get the bolt that goes into the metal bracket out of the damn thing. It requires a 14mm wrench, but good luck getting enough force on that to break the bolt loose. I tried using another wrench to get the torque I needed, but no luck. I did at least get the heat shield boot up and see that the mount looked fine. Vacuum line was attached as far as I could see and tell. So if anyone wants an brand new OEM rear engine mount, let me know...

So the issue I did find and fix was, sure enough... the vacuum line on the front mount wasn't connected. The mount definitely was replaced by the dealership, OEM part, but the tech who replaced it obviously was careless. The old mounts vacuum line nipple was stuck in the vacuum line, so it couldn't connect to the replacement. After struggling a little bit, I got the broken piece out and got the vacuum line back on the front mount. Upon first impressions, the car seems to vibrate/shake less when I put it into Reverse and Drive.

I was happy, I thought this may fix my problems, but my happiness was soon destroyed when I accelerated out of my spot. Same shaking/vibration when I pushed the pedal down.

When I was driving around my parking lot, I did notice a squealing noise. Every time I turned the car to the left and only when I turned the car to the left. I have been hearing a whirring noise when at higher speeds from my rear, right wheel, but I could not pin point this noise while in the car.

I had ordered the rear hub awhile ago when I suspected that was what was causing the whirring noise. Things weren't going well today and I was frustrated, so I called it a day. Car still shakes when I accelerate in 1st and 2nd, so I am still pissed.

I am hoping for a miracle and the rear hub solves my problem. It will at least hopefully solve the noises I am hearing. I am doubting it will resolve the issues with the shaking, but I did read a bad wheel bearing could causing some shaking in the steering wheel when accelerating.

But honestly, if I can't figure out this shaking on acceleration, I am getting rid of this car. I've put way to much money into this piece of shit to still be having issues. I'm tired of it. This frustration is why I called it a quits today.

NoTLoud

The last few posts on this thread, you may see my spiral toward insanity. I CANNOT for the life of me figure out what the issue with my car is.

Summary of the exact issues that I am noticing:

• When Parked or in Neutral, the car gets a pulsating shake (like a heart beat) at 1100 RPM. 1000 RPM, nothing. 1200 RPM, nothing. The shaking in Park or Neutral is exactly what I am experiencing when driving and accelerating. I feel the shaking throughout the car, even shakes me in my seat a bit.
• In 1st gear, the shake is from about 5-10 MPH and at about 1500-1800 RPM.
• In 2nd gear, the shaking is from about 25-30 MPH and from about 1800-2100 RPM.
• Starting to notice the shaking in 3rd gear, but much less noticeable.
• On the highway, I don't notice anything out of the normal.
• Shaking seems slightly worse when going uphill.
• At low speeds, sometimes when I get back on the accelerator after braking, when I press it, nothing really happens. Tach and Speedo don't move, but I am depressing the pedal, then the car kinda jerks forward after a second.

The last piece of info makes me think there is some sort of blockage or restriction in the engine or exhaust system somewhere. I don't believe this is any sort of transmission shudder or torque converter shudder as I get the similar shake even when the car is in neutral, so there should be no load on the transmission. Also, this disproves my theory that it may be the hub, although there still is a noise, but that's another issue altogether.

I am not throwing any check engine lights or other codes. No codes are stored, I checked with my scanner yesterday.

Clogged catalytic converter or clogged EGR valve potentially?

I'm probably going to just start another post because I don't think anyone will read through all of the posts in this thread to see this.

thoiboi

No need to start another thread.. You should keep it all together so people can see the full history of the car to make a proper determination. I've merged the threads and used the new title and hope that helps.

thoiboi

Your APP sensor sounds bad.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...sensor-730958/