I put used (new to me) wheels and tires on my car (2007 TL Type-S) the other day and got an alignment right after. Before I put on the new wheels and tires my car was pulling to the right a little bit and the old front tires were wearing on the insides, so I thought an alignment would fix the pulling. I picked up my car and the people at the shop said they couldn't adjust the rear toe because the bolts were frozen....ughhh. The car still pulls to the right, so I have to hold the steering wheel to the left a little bit to go straight. The front wheels were adjusted to within spec.
Here are the specs of the rear:
Left Rear
Camber: -1.3
Toe: 0.22
Right Rear
Camber: -1.6
Toe: -0.14
Total Toe: 0.08
Thrust Angle: 0.18

Would these specs in the rear cause my car to pull to the right? The shop said it could be the tires too but I don't want to get new tires until spring since there are winter tires with good tread on the car right now.
Thank you

 

toe needs to be zereo'd out.

 

What's pretty much messing you up is one side is toeing out and one is toeing in.
Order replacement bolts (and arms if necessary) and have your shop to to down with a torch and a sawzall.
You can get away with seized camber arms if we had em...but having bad TOE is definitely a NO, BRO.

 

you need to replace the entire rear arm along with the bolt then get it realign. The bolt seize because salt encounter during winter months, glad I don't have to deal with it anymore.

 

red = bad

 

green means go!

 

 

Normally, toe really destroys a tire.

 

judging by those numbers id say your subframe is shifted badly and needs to be replaced ASAP before more frame damage occurs due to the excessive geometry of your car currently

 

If you want the rear back into spec, just purchase adjustable toe and camber links (2 each side).
Ingalls:
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/ingalls-...ua7-38725.html

 

^^I was going to suggest that,
but having gone that route twice...and both times the bushings shifted and made the handling scary and unpredictable...
I don't fuck with those anymore.

 

I fuck with the ingalls. my shit is fine

 

Yeah, I've had members tell me that.
Every single one eventually comes back asking me for more details on why I don't like them and what I suggest instead.

 

Yea, I was thinking about just getting the ingalls kit, since OEM is so expensive for just one arm.

 

There are other products available that one may find better:
Megan, Eibach, TruHart, MevoTech, SPC, Moog,
along with no-names over on ebay.

 

Personally, I only like the upper 1 armed kits...usually SPC for the rear.
I got j's racing shitty bushing ones once...and the car felt extremely scary on curves under load.
On my next TL...I had ingalls and although not nearly as bad, there was a little wiggle here and there that reminded me that I wasn't a fan of the design.
I swapped to SPC upper and was happy.

I have that set of ingalls fs that came off that car if interested...I'd give you a killer deal.

 

But if I got an upper kit for the rear, will that help with my toe being out of spec? Wouldn't I still need to replace the OEM arm if the bolt is stuck in there?

 

No, Yup.
Take him up on the Ingalls bars and save some money.
If there's a problem with the bushings, speak to Ingalls and get replacements.

 

this guy knows...
it's true...there was some surface rust on them, but I cleaned them up and ensured none of the adjusting bolts were seized and threading was okay.
I also greased the bushings which seem intact. Was a matter of preference for me.

If you'd like further info/pictures, just PM me.