I've had this problem 4 times over the last 6 weeks with my 2005 TL.

A day or two after I fill it up, the car won't start. The starter spins fine, but it just wouldn't start. After about 15 minutes of me trying to start it, the engine will start and "Check Engine" light will come on. I've been at the dealership 2 times, and they couldn't diagnose the issue. They replaced the relay on my first visit, and the fuse box on my 2nd visit. They also reset the "Check Engine" light.

Yesterday, this happened again. After the car eventually started, I drove for about 1.5 miles then the car stalled on the freeway. When it stalled, the engine started producing regular dry-sounding clanking sounds in tact with the tachometer, at the rate of about 1 per second or so.

I didn't try to start it again, but got towed to the dealership instead. Every time this had happened, I filled up a day or two before. I'm not sure if dealership will be able to take care of it this time, since they seem to be doing the "elimination" process, but they can't seem to diagnose it properly.

Has anyone seen anything like this? Any remedies?

Thanks!

 

man that sucks. fortunately it never happen to me. i hope they can fix it for you once and for all. good luck.

 

The dealership retrieved the following 3 codes after this problem happened:

U0107 Lost Communication With Throttle Actuator Control Module
P0135 Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0155 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction

Hope this helps somebody figure out what the problem is.

Thanks!

 

my random guess, something iwht the drive-by-wire system is messed up or the fuel pump/filter.

 

Just got a call from the dealership - they said that they suspect the battery. I have almost 50K miles on the car, and they said the battery measured 248 cold-cranking Amps (rated at 550), and gave out 9V instead of 12V. I always thought that once the car starts, the battery is not a suspect anymore. They said that because so many different systems in the car depend on the right level of power, it can cause all kinds of problem and actually cause the car to stall. Can anyone confirm or deny this theory?

 

wow 248.... it does need 550 and the acura batteries suck. If the battery is less than 2 years old, its free, but over 2 it gets prorated on a new acura battery.

 

They said they'll replace it for free under the warranty, but I'm still puzzled as to why the car would stall once it starts, even if the battery is bad...

 

This is a good correlation between the u0107 code and a bad / faulty battery. Posting because I know someone will need this in the future.