I've tried the search function, I apologize if this has been asked.

Notice that a co-workers jank 2000 GMC Jimmy A/C was super ice cold compared to my 2007 TL... last night i spent $40 on a can of R134a from Autozone and followed directions.. the TL got ice cold during the whole process but this morning.. driving in to work.. it seem the same as it was before the recharge? Did I do something wrong?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=532242_0_0_

 

How far is your drive to work?
Sounds like you might have a leak, which is a possibility.

 

Most of the time crummy AC performance is due to incorrect pressure of your refrigerant. Too high or too low will result in worse performance. Higher outside temperatures or insufficient airflow through the condenser can also cause AC to blow a little warmer than it would if it were cooler outside or if you were on the freeway with lots of airflow.

Airflow and outside temperature can't really be controlled except by trying to keep the car moving. Regrigerant pressure is super picky and has a low tolerance of what is considered "ideal pressure". Charging the system yourself can be dodgy since those crappy pressure guages from autozone aren't always accurate and may not have the right pressure spec for your car. I've used them before and have had decent success doing it myself. Usually it involves charging bit by bit until AC performance drops or the compressor begins shutting on and off (indicating overcharging). This isn't a perfect method either but it can work if you do it right. If you've been unsuccessful with charging yourself I'd recommend just throwing in the towel and going to a shop. They can monitor the high and low pressure (whereas the autozone special only monitors low side) to get the amount of refrigerant just right. They can also tell you if you have a leak or other problem.

 

9 Miles one way .. average speed 40-60 depending on traffic? The car runs perfectly fine.. what do you suggest I do if there's a possible leak?

 

Great information -___- i should have let a pro do it, you suggest i bring it into Acura have em take a look at it? I mean its not warm air blowing.. just not cold freezing air in other cars ive been in.

 

I wouldn't take it to Acura. There are certain jobs I'd take to the dealer (timing belt for example). But AC is pretty generic across vehicles. An independant shop will just look up the pressure specs for the car and charge accordingly. And they'll charge half what the dealer does.

And the fact that you're at least getting fairly cool air is a good indication. Money says you're just not charged correctly. It could be a leak as well. But it seems like your components are working correctly.

 

If you haven't tried, put the A/C in manual, recirculate, coldest temp, fan on high and put a stick thermometer in the center vent and read the results.

 

Thanks guys for your input .. ill check around local shops have them properly read it.. and during the process of recharging the AC.. the Temp did drop about 20 degrees with the thermometer in the center.. freezing cold even the seats were freeezing.. buts its been Hot Hot here.. this week supposed to be worse.. already humidity this morning at 7:30 am..

 

Yeah, most won't charge a whole bunch to check the system. Some I've seen even advertise a free AC check. Naturally they'll check to charge it or adjust it but that's expected.

 

awesome! Thanks man this forum is awesome.. been browsing this since sophomore in highschool.. never signed up til now..

 

My car on a 90-100deg day will take somewhere around 30minutes before the air is blowing fully chilled air.

My commute is around 20miles per way and that's just based on my own experience.

2006 TL
94k miles

 

I think thats the same with my car.. the longer im in it and driving.. it gets really cold.. but idk co-workers car.. after 5-10 minutes its already freeezing..

 

When you checked the air temp when on manual recirculate, what temp was flowing from the center vent and O/S temp.

 

Try to get it all out of the system and then recharge. Look at your compressor and see if the clutch pack, the end of it (if it spins). I just had this problem on the other TL I own. It could be the sensor as well on the condenser..

 

Hate to bump an old thread but mine is doing the same. My 1990 Accord would get cold a lot faster, even when converted to R134 after the original compressor crapped the bed at 255k miles.

I just don't remember mine taking that long last summer. Recharged the system (I believe it was at 28 pounds) in April. When its above 90-95, it takes a long time to cool down. Checked the pressure today (low side) and it was at 35 pounds. Bumped to 40 to see if that helps at all. Most charts show acceptable pressure on the low side is 30-35 psi +/- 5 psi depending on temperature.

Otherwise, there has to be another problem somewhere. Compressor kicks on, maybe something in the mix from the climate control? I've also noticed the air from the center vents gets cold sooner than the side vents.

You ever get your car to cool more quickly?

 

The only way to determine if there is actually a problem, is to test your HVAC system. This link, post #6 is a test for the RDX, but the test is similar to the factory test for my 98 Chevy Blazer, so unless you have access to the factory test for your TL, just use the RDX one:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13955220#post13955220

My 98 Chevy will blow ice cold in 2 minutes - the RDX will not. I have tested the RDX several times - it always tests within the minimum temp spec from Acura. Its just a crappy AC compared to a GM AC (sorry).

The thing to note about an HVAC test, is that humidity and max temp make a huge difference in the output temp. An increase of 30% humidity, or an increase from 95 degrees to 105 degrees, and a car that has been sitting in the sun for 2 hours, will have a great effect on how quickly the car (and the HVAC) system will cool down.

For example, the FSM test for the RDX, says that if the humidity is 60% and the ambient is 105 degrees, then the AC center air vent should blow at 66 degrees, under the conditions of the test procedure.

As an example, the difference between ambient temp in the shade, and the sun, can be 30-50 degrees. Where I live, when it is 100 degrees in the shade, the temp on the top of my black Camaro in the sun will hit 150 degrees (not a misprint), as measured by an infra-red probe.

Last month, the shade temp was 107 degrees, and the temp inside my Blazer, which was sitting in the sun, on the driver's seat (in the shade of the roof), was 127 degrees when I stepped inside. The Chevy cooled down in a couple of minutes. The RDX will not do that.

 

The HVAC pressure chart from Acura for the RDX, also takes into account the humidity - it is not really a good idea to try charging your HVAC system based on a generic pressure chart. Again, the only way to determine if there is a problem, is to measure the high/ low pressures, under factory specified test conditions, and compare against the factory specified chart.

As already noted in a post above, either over or under-charged, and the HVAC system just does not work well.

 

Last summer, I don't remember it taking so long to cool off, even after sitting all day in 100 degree temps. At 40 psi on the low side now, it did cool off a lot quicker last night (same conditions, sat several hours outside in 100 degree temps) so maybe it was just a bit low.

If I continue to have problems, I'll have to take it somewhere to have it diagnosed. FWIW, it was cooling down more quickly if I was in stop and go traffic than if I got up to freeway speeds quickly without many stops in between so I know both fans are working properly. No obstructions to the condenser and the fins seem to be in good shape.