A/C needs recharged (I think, could be leaking) - Take it somewhere to get refilled..
05-01-2012, 06:43 PM
#1
A/C needs recharged (I think, could be leaking) - Take it somewhere to get refilled..
...or buy the compressor can from Advanced Auto Parts or Auto Zone? The downside is that if it's leaking, I will have just wasted $40. Should I trust the people at Mr. Tire to do a service on the A/C? I bought the car 3 months ago so I don't really know if this is a leak or it just needing to be recharged.
05-01-2012, 06:56 PM
#2
the overexplainer
probably take it to a specialist/indy shop. They'll probably recommend running a dye to see if anything comes up.
Have to be careful with those part store A/C recharge kits because some have stop leak in them which will probably cause problems.
It could be something "simple" like the schrader valve leaking on either line or something major.
Have to be careful with those part store A/C recharge kits because some have stop leak in them which will probably cause problems.
It could be something "simple" like the schrader valve leaking on either line or something major.
05-01-2012, 07:09 PM
#3
I agree with ez. Just remember, if it needs a charge, there is a leak. Air conditioners do not "use up" the gas; it's a sealed system. That said, if it leaks less than a can a year, which some do, it is often more cost effective to simply buy a can of gas and an installation hose and valve, and an AC thermometer. Place the thermometer in the center vent, set the AC on recirculating and high and sit in the car with the doors and windows closed. The temperature should go down to about 55 degrees. if not, you probably need a recharge. Charging the system is easy. Connect the valve to the can and the hose to the feed. (The hose will only fit on one of the fittings, the low pressure one.) Run the AC as before, open the valve on the can and watch the temperature. When it comes down to 55, close the valve and removeit from the fitting. Any gas left in the can should stay there. Put the cap back on the schraeder fitting and enjoy your cool air. The directions are also in the kit. You only need the kit once. After that you can buy just a can of gas. Hy
05-01-2012, 07:10 PM
#4
probably take it to a specialist/indy shop. They'll probably recommend running a dye to see if anything comes up.
Have to be careful with those part store A/C recharge kits because some have stop leak in them which will probably cause problems.
It could be something "simple" like the schrader valve leaking on either line or something major.
Have to be careful with those part store A/C recharge kits because some have stop leak in them which will probably cause problems.
It could be something "simple" like the schrader valve leaking on either line or something major.
05-01-2012, 07:41 PM
#5
I agree with ez. Just remember, if it needs a charge, there is a leak. Air conditioners do not "use up" the gas; it's a sealed system. That said, if it leaks less than a can a year, which some do, it is often more cost effective to simply buy a can of gas and an installation hose and valve, and an AC thermometer. Place the thermometer in the center vent, set the AC on recirculating and high and sit in the car with the doors and windows closed. The temperature should go down to about 55 degrees. if not, you probably need a recharge. Charging the system is easy. Connect the valve to the can and the hose to the feed. (The hose will only fit on one of the fittings, the low pressure one.) Run the AC as before, open the valve on the can and watch the temperature. When it comes down to 55, close the valve and removeit from the fitting. Any gas left in the can should stay there. Put the cap back on the schraeder fitting and enjoy your cool air. The directions are also in the kit. You only need the kit once. After that you can buy just a can of gas. Hy
I'll have to try out what you said about using the thermometer.
05-02-2012, 08:22 AM
#6
The thermometer is totally dependent on the ambient temperature/humidity. Best to have it checked with gauges and then report the pressures as even a leaking heater control valve would make the outlet temp higher, but the system could be fully charged. As stated before, there should be no loss of refrigerant as it is a closed system, but if low, I use an electronic leak detector, works like a charm, but dishwasher liquid and water can also be used although time consuming and hit and miss.
Also a caution, overcharging a system is just as bad as an undercharged system as cooling efficiency will be compromised.
Also a caution, overcharging a system is just as bad as an undercharged system as cooling efficiency will be compromised.
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JJH (05-03-2012)
05-03-2012, 12:50 PM
#7
The thermometer is totally dependent on the ambient temperature/humidity. Best to have it checked with gauges and then report the pressures as even a leaking heater control valve would make the outlet temp higher, but the system could be fully charged. As stated before, there should be no loss of refrigerant as it is a closed system, but if low, I use an electronic leak detector, works like a charm, but dishwasher liquid and water can also be used although time consuming and hit and miss.
Also a caution, overcharging a system is just as bad as an undercharged system as cooling efficiency will be compromised.
Also a caution, overcharging a system is just as bad as an undercharged system as cooling efficiency will be compromised.
http://www.mrtire.com/maintenance-re...ystem-services
Should I trust them?
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05-03-2012, 02:52 PM
#8
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
^It's not so much about the shop as it is about the guy doing the work. Ask for names, be polite, hell see if you can go back and watch them work on it.
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JJH (05-03-2012)
05-03-2012, 04:13 PM
#9
I'd see what they say the pressure are on the low and high side and go from there. When the pressures are taken, note the ambient temp so one can compare to what the proper pressures should be.
See what they might want to do, but don't use a sealer and as stated above, the refrigerant is not to leak out of the system, so if low a problem exists.
See what they might want to do, but don't use a sealer and as stated above, the refrigerant is not to leak out of the system, so if low a problem exists.
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JJH (05-03-2012)
05-03-2012, 04:25 PM
#10
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Yup. Ask them to tell you the actual pressure readings when they test it. Low and high both at idle and at 2000 to 2500 RPM.
Some of those places tell you that they have to charge you the 3.5 pounds of refrigerant because they cannot tell you how much was in there... this is BS. If they do that, take your car somewhere else.
You can check the Schrader valves yourself (mostly). Unscrew the low and high pressure caps and look for bubbling green looking stuff. If you see it, it is leaking.
Some of those places tell you that they have to charge you the 3.5 pounds of refrigerant because they cannot tell you how much was in there... this is BS. If they do that, take your car somewhere else.
You can check the Schrader valves yourself (mostly). Unscrew the low and high pressure caps and look for bubbling green looking stuff. If you see it, it is leaking.
The following users liked this post:
JJH (05-03-2012)
05-03-2012, 04:51 PM
#11
I'd see what they say the pressure are on the low and high side and go from there. When the pressures are taken, note the ambient temp so one can compare to what the proper pressures should be.
See what they might want to do, but don't use a sealer and as stated above, the refrigerant is not to leak out of the system, so if low a problem exists.
See what they might want to do, but don't use a sealer and as stated above, the refrigerant is not to leak out of the system, so if low a problem exists.
Yup. Ask them to tell you the actual pressure readings when they test it. Low and high both at idle and at 2000 to 2500 RPM.
Some of those places tell you that they have to charge you the 3.5 pounds of refrigerant because they cannot tell you how much was in there... this is BS. If they do that, take your car somewhere else.
You can check the Schrader valves yourself (mostly). Unscrew the low and high pressure caps and look for bubbling green looking stuff. If you see it, it is leaking.
Some of those places tell you that they have to charge you the 3.5 pounds of refrigerant because they cannot tell you how much was in there... this is BS. If they do that, take your car somewhere else.
You can check the Schrader valves yourself (mostly). Unscrew the low and high pressure caps and look for bubbling green looking stuff. If you see it, it is leaking.
Thanks everyone!
Thank you!
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