true.alex93

Hey everyone,

So on my recent visit to the dealer they noted that my passenger side rear control arm was bent, and that I needed a new one. Quoted me ~$2,000 worth of work, so I got out of there. When I got home I looked under and did notice the bend in the control arm, found a replacement for under $200. I am uploading pictures to ensure that, that is indeed the control arm I am looking at. Outlined in red is the control arm right?

While I was under the car I noticed there was another abnormality, now I'm no mechanic but that does not look right. Outlined in blue, I have a picture of the other side to compare. What is the name of this part? I would like to do this myself if at all possible.

I would like to replace both parts at the same time unless you guys recommend other wise. Any explanation on how this may have happened would be useful too (so it doesn'st happen again).

Other details: 07, TL Base, 89k miles. Drives and turns just fine (no tugging from the steering wheel).

As always thank you guys in advance!!!

csmeance

Here's a link to the diagram:
Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

It's part no 11 for the arm, and its about $75

The broken part is called the end link and those do break when there is significant impact damage to the rear suspension.

replace the parts and then get an alignment

true.alex93

Awesome thanks a lot man!

true.alex93

For the Link itself would I need both #6 and #7 or is there more involved?

Diagram is a bit hard to read in that area

csmeance

006 52320-SFY-J01 LINK, R. RR. STABILIZER
007 52325-SFY-J01 LINK, L. RR. STABILIZER

Those are all you need. If you look up a few DIY's here you'll see you need an allen key and a wrench to get the stabilizer link fully opened.

Oh Sickest TL

iTrader: (3)

2 grand tho wtf. in no way shape or form is that 2k worth the work . my god

Wharbone

In addition to the control arm and endlink, I would also replace the cam bolt, lock nuts, washers, & endlink nuts if it were me since they aren't very expensive. Numbers: 18, 19, 30, 13, 29, 25, & 31. The FSM says you should replace the endlink nuts and toe adjustment locknut. You would probably be fine re-using your old stuff, but might as well do it all when you have it apart.

For the cam bolt, they tend to seize up after time where you can't adjust toe anymore. Put anti-seize on it when re-installing to help prevent that.

Re-torque the bolts to spec with suspension under load. These parts should be pretty easy to replace. If your cam bolt is already seized you may have to cut it out. Common problem.

You only need 6 and 7 if you need both left and right endlinks. If your other side is fine and has no play, no need to replace it.

An alignment after the install is very important.

Either you or a previous owner must have hit something pretty hard to bend the control arm!