I have an 05 base TL with auto transmission with just under 106k on it. I've put alot of parts into it just to make sure everything is up to speed and I basically baby the car with the best of everything. Obviously the owners manual recommends replacement at 105k, but when I took it to my buddys to have him help me do it, he was surprised I wanted to. He's an old school engine guy, who used to build race engines. He listened to the rotation of the belt and bearing with a stethascope, and said it sounded perfect and that I may just be opening up a can of worms for no reason. I'm looking for opions from people that do there own work, and know cars, not ones who just obey the dealership out of fear. He seemed to think I would know in advance if the timing belt was getting rough, and to worry about it then. The only thing holding me back is lack of confidece doing it myself and I'm taking a road trip in a month so I'm worried about screwing it up. I can't afford to have a shop do it. Is it necessary to do now or worth it?

 

Do you know if it's been changed before? If it never has, I would say do it ASAP.

The merit of visually inspecting timing/accessory belts has been beat to death. Some are firmly in one camp, some in the other. Bearing noise would have nothing to do with the condition of the belt itself.

If I were you, I would take it back to your buddy and ask him for help replacing it anyway. Peace of mind for a 10/11 year old car.

 

I bought an 02 Oddy with 110K on it. The dealership told me it had been done. They lied. Timing belt had stretched enough to allow the engine to jump time. Luckily, the belt did not break and ruin the engine. Change it now. Kits are $125 or so on Amazon. Helm's offers access to the Honda Service Manual that you can print for $10 for 24 hours.

 

If you've been diligent doing maintanence on the car, do it now, or at least when the mid suggests the change. Oil is changed at given intervals when in reality it would probably last a lot longer. Brake fluid every 3 years, but it could be eliminated until a problem arises, same with the plugs, 100k miles, but they would last a lot longer.
Bottom line, follow manufacturer's recommendations.

 

I don't know if its been changed before so I'm gonna go ahead and do it. I think I've just been phsycing myself out reading about all these guys who are scared to touch it and would rather take it in to a shop. I understand the risk, but I've watched a step by step youtube vid and as long as you take time to make sure the marks are lined up, I dont see whats so difficult. I graduated with a degree in auto mechanics a few years ago, but ended up working an electrical only shop so Im far removed from engine work. Ive akways done my own work but for some reason this scares the hell out of me. Do you guys think its something I can handle with my experience level? Ive never done a timing belt.

 

It will take time, but yes, anyone can do the job.
The biggest/hardest part is removing the crank bolt, so make sure you have the correct tool, or as some have done, used the starter to loosen the nut.
Get a new PS "O" ring, actually a good time to replace both "O" rings.

 

Another factor to consider is the water pump. After 10years and the mileage there is always the chance the seal can start leaking

 

I pulled one of the covers to inspect the belt. I dont know if it ever was replaced but does that look fairly new to you? Its pretty glossy on top, thats not from the camera flash








I wasnt able to get a great look at the underside, but everything I could see looked fine- no cracks or obvious wear.





I pressed and pulled on the free areas, seemed to have plenty of stretch and spring.

 

I know looks arent a sure way of telling condition, but Im trying to figure out if it may have been replaced before. I compared it to the genuine Honda belt I have and the top looks glossier, the underside is brown instead of black and it appears to be of cheaper quality. However, the ribs and texture of the underside look the same. I have no problem doing the rest of the 105k maintenance, but I dont want to replace it if its fairly new already.

 

Unless you have proof of the job on paper, or someone can tell you for certain it's been done, then it's the original belt. As good as it looks, and despite the fact it can go thousands of miles more, do you really want to roll the dice with such a critical part?

 

Ok well I wont argue with the popular answer. I appreciate the advice. Ive looked over many videos and walkthroughs including one on the site here. Problem is each one has included replacing the auto tensioner whereas my kit does not include one. My question is how do I relieve belt tendion and retract the tensioner piston without replacing it? Im sure Im missing something...

 

If your kit doesn't include the tensioner, I would purchase one separately and replace it. Unless you treat this car as disposable, I would replace everything at once, it'll save you a lot of trouble down the road.

 

I'd replace the tensioner, but if not, to compress, place it in a vise.

 

I dont treat the car as disposable, but if I had enough money to replace everything I had any question about, I wouldnt be driving a 10 year old car in the first place...lol

 

your best bet would look into the under drive pulley to see if any metal being chip off since they require a good amount of forces to get them loose. My TB taken out at 88k miles looks almost exact as the new one came from Honda, don't look at the belt and judge it. If you are not sure its done then just save $$$ and get it done just being safe side.

 

OP, did you just buy the car? I believe you can call any Acura service dept and they can check service history by VIN (for any service done by Acura).

Has a "4" shown up on the MID? What does the MID say for % oil life left? If a "4" hasn't appeared yet and doesn't appear in the next 2K-3K miles, then there's a good chance the TB has already been changed.

You can't really tell by visual inspection. Just because a belt looks good doesn't mean anything really. However, at 106K, the belt is likely to last much longer if you chose to push the limits. There are several 3G TLs that have gone way past 105K

The tensioners have proven to be a weak link far more than the belt. When the time comes, I would definitely replace the tensioner and the water pump along with the TB. The TB kits are dirt cheap. There's a couple of good video's as well as Majofo's DIY in the Azine garage.

 

Check the right shock tower for a timing belt service sticker. Independent repair shops will put a timing belt service sticker on the right shock tower for future reference if it was done.

According to Gates belts, under no circumstance should timing belts service intervals be exceeded.

Below is a link to Gates Q&A about timing belts.


Aftermarket FAQ

 

Im gonna do it this week. After i pulled the sprocket cover and saw the timing marks for myself I feel alot more confident. It seems simple enough to me considering I have a backround in cars, but everyone seems so paranoid about screwing it up I began to second guess myself

 

Ok so now that ive decided on doing it, just a little more info on compressing that auto tensioner piston plz?? Do I just pull the idler to release tension, then put the auto tensioner in a vice to compress it? Then how do I lock it in place until Im ready to go without the little pin that comes with the new one?

 

Bad move to not replace the tensioner IMO. Some use drill bits or allen wrenches, but there is a pin kit you can buy (4:20 into the video):

 

Thank you everyone for the help. I appreciate the help. I'll post when I'm done with the project later this week. Off subject quick: does anyone have a link to gasket kit for power steering pump? Mine has a slight whine and upon inspection noticed theres dried fluid all over the area where the pump itself meets the engine. I've heard a lot about leaky o-rings on these, but its obvious its coming from the main gasket seal.

 

Try the 2 O rings
91370-SV4-000 O-RING (14.4X1.9)
91345-RDA-A01 O-RING (13.0X1.9)

 

Here is a DIY that member "Rockstar143" did with all the gaskets/o-rings needed for a PS pump overhaul...


https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...-scans-841134/

 

you don't have to take the power steering pump or the lines off to do a timing belt, just fyi. don't know if that's why the o-rings were suggested.

 

I got the job knocked out a couple days ago! Thanks again everyone for the help! It really wasnt bad once I got into it although everythings a lot worse when your working in an apartment parking lot and keep having to run up to the 3Rd floor for tools and etc.

 

Lol you and me both! Living on the 4th floor, it's terribly annoying going back and forth.


Good thing you got it done!

 

Congrats on getting this done!

 

Good luck with that original tensioner lasting another 105K miles....

 

I replace mine every 100k on my 2g and about to turn 272k

 

Gimme a break. I appreciate your concern but I dont understand why people are being so adamant about how things need to be done . My mother in law has a 99 Buick with 255k on it and shes the type of person that thinks you only need to put gas in a car. Thats a dramatic example but in another 5 years, I wont be driving a 2005 anymore...in other words, I love my car but the list of recommendations will nickel and dime me to death.

 

Here here, I agree give him a break. He can do what ever he wants to his car. If he's happy we should be too for him

Kuddos to you for knocking that timing belt job out!

 

I had a moment of weakness there with my last post lol...anyway thank you all for the much needed help Its a relief to have it done, and I couldnt imagine paying shop rates to do it.

 

Congrats on getting this knocked out! I just put a timing belt kit in my TL this weekend too, it’s has 104K mi on it, so it was time.

As a point of reference, I changed out my first timing belt on my 1998 Accord V-6 at 140K mi; I changed the belt again 200k mi later at 340K mi. I drive my vehicles fairly hard, and I live in MN where there are significant temperature swings (non-ideal conditions). Furthermore, the auto-tensioner, adjusting pulley and the idler pulley lasted the full 340K mi. Now this wasn't wise, but it does show how long these components can last. I won’t argue the probability of this happening again without a failure; however this is just a data point for you regarding your auto-tensioner.

 

Thats good to hear. I plan on doing my next belt before its due and doing the tensioner at that point. BTW Saint Paul MN right here woop woop lol.

 

When the entire Gates kit (Gates TCKWP329) is only $132 shipped, I just can't fathom why one would not replace the tensioner while going to the effort of replacing the TB.

At any rate, this will serve as an interesting test case since IIRC, not many Azine members (if any) have done a TB change without replacing the tensioner.

 

Looks like I got bent over on the price if thats the case. I bought the kit without consulting anyone and paid 275 for timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, tensioner and idler pulleys and cam and crank seals. Genuine Honda parts on Amazon. Ive put about a grand into the car in the month Ive had it and my old lady is not very understanding haha so I just didnt care to spend the extra 50 for the tensioner seperately.

 

Another Minnesotan awesome!
I’ll tell you what marxw13; if that auto-tensioner fails before your next timing belt change-out…I’ll buy you a beer.

 

Haha it would have to be a big beer to drown my sorrows if it did fail... but Im not too worried about it.

 

Seems like everyone waits til 105k, what about those that have hit past the recommended 7yr mark? I'm at 7yrs and the tensioner belt looks pretty old and I have some noises coming from the area too, maybe a pulley? I figured if I need to get those changed out, then might as well tackle the whole timing belt package.

I'm at 76,600mi so far on my 08 TL

RockAuto still the best price?

 

I would not change it on an '08 at only 76k. The noise is more likely external, as in the drive belt tensioner or power steering or A/C related.