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I spent all morning and afternoon bleeding and I am not anywhere close to being done. argg!
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I had bought a refurbished master cylinder from autozone....but before I threw it on, I tried bleeding first....just case I dont need the master cylinder.
no matter what I did, I couldnt get a solid pedal.
ended up changing the master cylinder.
went through so much brake fluid. lol
rounded off a bleeder nipple in the rear. arrggh.
in the service manual; it states that i'll have to use the HDS to cycle the ABS modulator. to get the air out from it.
yeah, that’s it, thanks. Thats what i was thinking but Ive never seen a 1.0 m10. The last 2 caliper threads came out fused with the brake line nut threads, Id have to order a die in that size since its such an oddball so i ran the nut in my brand new caliper
Originally Posted by justnspace
man, I am right there with you.
I spent all morning and afternoon bleeding and I am not anywhere close to being done. argg!
.
I had bought a refurbished master cylinder from autozone....but before I threw it on, I tried bleeding first....just case I dont need the master cylinder.
no matter what I did, I couldnt get a solid pedal.
ended up changing the master cylinder.
went through so much brake fluid. lol
rounded off a bleeder nipple in the rear. arrggh.
in the service manual; it states that i'll have to use the HDS to cycle the ABS modulator. to get the air out from it.
Tell me about it. Front pads turned into pads all around, 2 new calipers, a new master cylinder, and about 5 brake flushes.
I spent all morning and afternoon bleeding and I am not anywhere close to being done. argg!
.
I had bought a refurbished master cylinder from autozone....but before I threw it on, I tried bleeding first....just case I dont need the master cylinder.
no matter what I did, I couldnt get a solid pedal.
ended up changing the master cylinder.
went through so much brake fluid. lol
rounded off a bleeder nipple in the rear. arrggh.
in the service manual; it states that i'll have to use the HDS to cycle the ABS modulator. to get the air out from it.
Have you got it together and test drove it yet? I just finally wrapped it up, I feel like the beginning of the pedal is a bit soft, well more like a bit of free travel, but honestly it could be just me, I should have paid better attention to how it was before. Though if I slam on the brakes it definitely stops, and better than it did before, ABS kicks in. I'll go for another good test drive tomorrow and try to be a bit more observant. I had bought a bench bleed kit, but it leaked and pulled air in around the threads so I just pumped it by hand and tried to cover the ports when letting the ram back out. Definitely a less than ideal bench bleed but better than nothing. So the logic is basically that regular bleeding won't get all the air out and you need a computer to activate the abs to push it out of the abs system? Do you think the same thing could be accomplished by finding a gravel road or something and just doing a lot of stops to get the abs working, then re-bleeding? I always wondered how much of the service manual procedures are necessary vs the manufacturer having a better safe than sorry attitude, I'd be willing to guess the latter but of course then there is the question of is this particular set of instructions one of the ones that really is 100% necessary.
the master cylinder came with a bench bleed kit, but like your kit...my shit leaked when i pushed in the rod.
no, I havent finished yet...car is on jack stands.. I'll try again tomorrow as i started to make silly mistakes...was time for a break.
I have the master cylinder on the car and I have bled all 4 corners. I just wanna try bleeding one more time. as soon as autozone opens, i'm gonna pick up some more brake fluid.
I know I was doing it wrong cuz i ran through a lot of brake fluid.
As I was bleeding for the 4th time, I noticed a hissing from the engine compartment. but only as I finished the bleed sequence, the last caliper...the Rear Left. Only the rear left caliper produced the hissing from the engine compartment. I had a neighbor take a listen as I punched the brakes and he immediately noted the sound is coming from the ABS Modulator.
I ordered a used one on ebay and should be here this week or next.
I figure even if this used one goes bad, its way better than spending $2000 for a new one.
If the used one goes bad in the up coming years, I'll consider a new one.
Last edited by justnspace; Aug 16, 2021 at 07:33 PM.
I ordered a used one on ebay and should be here this week or next.
I figure even if this used one goes bad, its way better than spending $2000 for a new one.
If the used one goes bad in the up coming years, I'll consider a new one.
As I was bleeding for the 4th time, I noticed a hissing from the engine compartment. but only as I finished the bleed sequence, the last caliper...the Rear Left. Only the rear left caliper produced the hissing from the engine compartment. I had a neighbor take a listen as I punched the brakes and he immediately noted the sound is coming from the ABS Modulator.
that's one of the reasons why I couldnt find the hiss in the first place, I was very concentrated on bleeding all the air out of the front Brembo Calipers. But every time I bled, it just wasnt going anywhere...always air in the lines. could never get the pedal solid. I finally said screw just doing the front calipers and let me try the full bleed sequence.
Once I heard the engine compartment start to hiss, I knew something was letting air in the brake system.
I just didnt have a second pair of ears until today.
so i changed the master cylinder for giggles. lol good practice. but probably not needed
Removed the VSA/ABS Modulator:
I had the correct flare nut wrenches, however, I could not remove one line without totally rounding it off.. gave up on the flare nut wrench and used a vice grip and just went really really slow. I think you can see the beat up flare nut.
Here is the nasty brake fluid from the very first bleed: