Assistance on brakes ASAP!
11-14-2008 | 10:36 PM
#1
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From: H-Town,TX.
Assistance on brakes ASAP!
Like the title says, I need help right now. I'm working on my brakes as we speek. I've never touched my rear brakes before and I can't figure out how to take them off. I've already taken all the screws out and I'm stuck. Am I supposed to take the center cap off? If so, how? That's the only thing holding me up and I've already did the front brakes. Thanks in advance.
11-14-2008 | 10:44 PM
#2
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Here is a really good DIY. It's 2nd Gen but pretty much identical to 3G rears.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=rotor
See the last page if you're having trouble getting the rotors off.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=rotor
See the last page if you're having trouble getting the rotors off.
11-14-2008 | 10:45 PM
#3
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Here are Service Manual Scans for the 3G:
D-041: Brakes-front/rear caliper overhaul, front/rear pad replacement, brake bleeding, brake disc specifications, parking brake adjustment
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118283
What specifically are you having trouble with? Pads? Rotors? Calipers?
D-041: Brakes-front/rear caliper overhaul, front/rear pad replacement, brake bleeding, brake disc specifications, parking brake adjustment
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118283
What specifically are you having trouble with? Pads? Rotors? Calipers?
11-14-2008 | 11:32 PM
#4
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Here I come!
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From: H-Town,TX.
What specifically are you having trouble with? Pads? Rotors? Calipers?
11-14-2008 | 11:42 PM
#5
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Holding what on? The rotor? Nothing holding the rotor on, it's just rusted to the hub. See page 2 of the first link I gave you and you'll get it off in no time.
Don't fk with the "center cap" that's the hub/wheel bearing and you don't need to mess with to do brakes.
11-14-2008 | 11:43 PM
#6
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
D-085: Brake disc (rotor), knuckle, hub, and front wheel bearing replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/religion-politics-18/world-opinion-132940/
https://acurazine.com/forums/religion-politics-18/world-opinion-132940/
11-14-2008 | 11:47 PM
#7
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
The EASY Way To Remove Rotors
Learned something new while replacing my rotors. I don't recall seeing it in various DIY's (I might have missed it), but I *know* some people have taken a hammer to knock stuck rotors off the hub.
Well, you don't need to do that.
See those two holes I marked. Just screw in an M8 x 1.25 bolt in each one. Give one a couple of turns of the ratchet, then give the other a couple of turns. Keep alternating back and forth, a couple of turns at a time, until the rotor breaks loose.
Screwing the bolts in will back the rotor off the hub. Easy.
Well, you don't need to do that.
See those two holes I marked. Just screw in an M8 x 1.25 bolt in each one. Give one a couple of turns of the ratchet, then give the other a couple of turns. Keep alternating back and forth, a couple of turns at a time, until the rotor breaks loose.
Screwing the bolts in will back the rotor off the hub. Easy.
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11-15-2008 | 07:35 AM
#8
3GS are notorious for a rust ridge on the inside the ebrake surface area. Pop the little rubber plug out and with the access hole in the bottom center of the axis you will see a wheel inside with teeth on it. Using a flat blade screwdriver reach in a click the wheel to loosen the ebrake shoes. Should do the trick.
11-15-2008 | 10:44 AM
#10
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release the park brake handle or pedal
Now try it
Still no go? hit it with the mallet several places/times
For install- put anti sieze on the hub to rotor edge. thats where they get hung up
Clicking the brake adjuster will tighten it- not release
Now try it
Still no go? hit it with the mallet several places/times
For install- put anti sieze on the hub to rotor edge. thats where they get hung up
Clicking the brake adjuster will tighten it- not release
11-15-2008 | 11:48 AM
#11
Wiggy Wiggy Wiggy
Joined: Jan 2008
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Yeah make sure the rotor spins, and the parking brake is released.
I use a piece of wood and a small sledge hammer to remove stubborn rotors. Usually one whack will loosen the part. As mentioned its super common for the rotor to get stuck onto the hub due to the rust, ect.
I use a piece of wood and a small sledge hammer to remove stubborn rotors. Usually one whack will loosen the part. As mentioned its super common for the rotor to get stuck onto the hub due to the rust, ect.
11-15-2008 | 01:04 PM
#12
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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From: Waffles, BU
NO.. Don't use a hammer.. Bearcat is right! You don't need to take the center cap off.. it's just the rust around the center cap.. buy 2 cap screws to push the rotor off. 2-3 turns on each at a time.
The cap screws should be 8 x 1.25mm - get like 30-40mm long.
It's not complicated. It's just the rust!
The cap screws should be 8 x 1.25mm - get like 30-40mm long.
It's not complicated. It's just the rust!
11-16-2008 | 04:09 PM
#13
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Here I come!
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From: H-Town,TX.
Thanks to everyone for the responds. Actually, it was a combination of stuck rotors and parking brake. It also doesn't help that I was drinking.
I didn't want to go through the trouble of going to buy two screws, so I stuck the claw side of the hammer between the shield and rotor and gave it a hard jerk. Bingo! Those rotors were no good anyways since they had already been resurfaced twice. So here's my new set up:
Before:
After:
That bed in process was crazy! Once they started smoking, I had a hard time stopping.
I didn't want to go through the trouble of going to buy two screws, so I stuck the claw side of the hammer between the shield and rotor and gave it a hard jerk. Bingo! Those rotors were no good anyways since they had already been resurfaced twice. So here's my new set up:Before:
After:
That bed in process was crazy! Once they started smoking, I had a hard time stopping.
11-16-2008 | 10:57 PM
#16
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Here I come!
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From: H-Town,TX.
Brakes feel good so far. I didn't really give the paint too much time to heal, but it dried over night. It sure was quite a bit of work. A-spec, coil-overs, and H&R spacers are next.
11-17-2008 | 12:18 AM
#17
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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From: Waffles, BU
Representing H-Town / Third Coast.. Very Nice.
I thought my brakes were bad.. I bought my car from some guy who warped the h311 out of the rotors (luckily I was able to turn them) and the pads only had 1mm left before the strike guard.
Nice wheels btw.. I'm rolling stock with the same NEXEN.. they get a mixed review but no squeal so far and good cornering on stock suspension.. PM me if you're in the ATX.
Have you had any trouble with the police for the clears? just wondering..
I thought my brakes were bad.. I bought my car from some guy who warped the h311 out of the rotors (luckily I was able to turn them) and the pads only had 1mm left before the strike guard.
Nice wheels btw.. I'm rolling stock with the same NEXEN.. they get a mixed review but no squeal so far and good cornering on stock suspension.. PM me if you're in the ATX.
Have you had any trouble with the police for the clears? just wondering..
11-17-2008 | 06:28 PM
#19
Thread Starter
Here I come!
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From: H-Town,TX.
Does anyone know how long it takes for the pads to be broken in completely?
11-17-2008 | 06:46 PM
#20
Wiggy Wiggy Wiggy
Joined: Jan 2008
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EBC's site says initial bed in is 400-600, full chemical cure could be another 1000.
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/assets/typicalq&a.html
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/assets/typicalq&a.html
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