APP Sensor Replacement Question

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Old May 4, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #1  
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APP Sensor Replacement Question

I got the P2138 code this morning from Auto Zone and have read through a number of threads on here regarding replacement. My local dealer wants nearly $500 to replace the sensor. I figure I'd rather buy the part for $125 online and try to fix it myself.

I'm a newb though when it comes to car repairs. I found two threads, https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ght=app+sensor

and

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/app-sensor-replacing-due-code-2138-ecu-reset-idle-relearn-817240/

that are very helpful. However, where is the sensor? Is it in the engine bay or is it located by the gas pedal? Is it a relatively easy fix, even for a newb like myself? I read on other threads that it takes just 10-30 minutes. Thanks!
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Old May 4, 2011 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cust0mx
I got the P2138 code this morning from Auto Zone and have read through a number of threads on here regarding replacement. My local dealer wants nearly $500 to replace the sensor. I figure I'd rather buy the part for $125 online and try to fix it myself.

I'm a newb though when it comes to car repairs. I found two threads, https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ght=app+sensor

and

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=817240

that are very helpful. However, where is the sensor? Is it in the engine bay or is it located by the gas pedal? Is it a relatively easy fix, even for a newb like myself? I read on other threads that it takes just 10-30 minutes. Thanks!
Dude, next time don't start a whole new thread, just post in an existing thread.

Look at post #3 and #4 in the first link you listed. It doesn't get any better explained than that. If that doesn't help you, then no one can help you....
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Old May 4, 2011 | 01:19 PM
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where the red arrow is, obviously take off the cover. GL.

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Old May 4, 2011 | 01:45 PM
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Thanks! Sorry about starting a new thread. Just ordered the part and should get it in a couple of days. Hopefully it won't be too hard to replace
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Old May 7, 2011 | 04:48 PM
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Do I need to unhook the battery cables?
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Old May 7, 2011 | 05:18 PM
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To unhook the cable do I just need to loosen the bolt and then slide the cable out?
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Old May 7, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by cust0mx
Do I need to unhook the battery cables?
NO

Originally Posted by cust0mx
To unhook the cable do I just need to loosen the bolt and then slide the cable out?
Yes, but you don't need to disconnect the battery for this. Just follow the steps listed in the Service Manual scan in the other thread.
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Old May 7, 2011 | 06:43 PM
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Thanks! I swapped everything out, but in some of the threads that I've read people have done an ECU reset by disconnecting the battery for 30min-1 hour. I know it's not in the SM, but is it recommended? Assuming this fixes the problem, should the CEL be off?
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Old May 7, 2011 | 07:31 PM
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You do not need to disconnect the batter for computer learning reasons however if you want to clear the CEL right away that would do it. Assuming replacing that sensor was the problem the light should be off after disconnecting the battery and will stay off. Without disconnecting the battery the light may or may not take a while to go off on it's own.

Nice job on tackling the job yourself!! $500 from a stealership is almost like robbery for such an easy job.

James
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Old May 7, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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Got an ERR1 code on my radio when I turned it back on. My battery was unplugged for about 20 minutes and the CEL went off. I'm the third owner and luckily the radio code was still in the owner's manual.

It took me about an hour to replace. I remember when I called the dealership they wanted about $210 for the part and $280 for labor. I asked why the labor was so much and they said they would have to remove the center console in order to reach the sensor. When I explained that the sensor wasn't even near the console, they said it would still cost nearly $300 for labor
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Old May 7, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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^^^ unbelievable!!! Those exact reasons are why you should avoid dealerships at all costs. They obviously had no clue what sensor they were even talking about. There is absolutely no reason a dealership should charge more than 30 minutes labor for this simple job.

James
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 07:48 AM
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Replaced APP Sensor now VSA and Triangle ! light are on

I just replaced my APP sensor as I had the P2138 code and the similar symptoms as everyone else where the car accelerated in a very jerky fashion and then would go into limp mode with the CEL, VSA, and (!) lights turning on.

The car now accelerates and drives perfectly normal since replacing the APP sensor, but the (!) light is on when you turn the car on and the VSA light turns on and stays on as soon as you drive above 20 mph. There are no codes being pulled now.

Was there something I missed when replacing the sensor? I had the tires rotated about 800 miles ago but the VSA light did not go on prior to replacing the APP sensor. Any insight or thoughts would be very helpful. Thank you.
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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No thoughts? anyone?
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ThunderDan
No thoughts? anyone?
Same thing happened on my accord, in my case it happened to be the ABS Unit, was a 800-900 part, sucked royally. Hope thats not your issue, but they do tend to go out on these cars.
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 08:27 AM
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Wow. I really hope that's not the case for my TL. Did your ABS light come on though? I did not get an ABS or Brake Light coming on, just the VSA.
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Old Oct 23, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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nope just VSA and triangle for me
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Old May 12, 2015 | 08:34 PM
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anybody here this one ?? had a an oil change 2005 tl about a week goes by all the lights come on VSA/ Engine ( !) and the car limp mode s down to 10 mph so i check the brake fluid and low a behold the guys at shop that did my brake fluid check left the cap loose . i put more fluid to the right level now i have brake fluid every where and my app sensor code is coming up p2138 along with VSA check engine light limp mode and cannot trust the to go 1 mile with out it starting all over again all the lights vsa /cgl coming back on so i fixed app 410.00 later anyway the too are related ????????
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Old May 12, 2015 | 08:55 PM
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my first post i did not include this . that after I Topped off my brake fluid the car actually seemed to be fine and all of a sudden the VSA engine light and (!) comes on and boggs down to limp mode so pull over and reset car by turning off and on .the car then resumes to be fine until about 10 min later , and starts with all the lights again is ther anyway that the vsa would be effected by the low brake fluid which started this whole process ?? anybody please
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