teeeejaay

Had a couple of questions if anyone can help out. After having my friend do the big 3 upgrade at his shop my alternator is making this horrible loud screaming sound. I just replaced the alternator 7 weeks ago.

I was also reading this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/diy-big-3-1-plus-battery-cable-upgrade-867585/
And I seen someone else adding more ground wires.

Maybe someone can correct me if this is set up correct or if I'm missing some wires.
1. Connected positive battery side wire to positive side of alternator (Theres a fuse box close to the battery side)
2. Connected the negative battery side to the stock grounding location. (Also left the stock grounding wire connected and grounded)
3. Connected the top of the manifold middle bolt to the negative side of the battery

Took these pics to point out whats connected to what...






I read that people connect the top middle bolt on the manifold to the ground side of the alternator also? Then they connect grounds to the throttle body also? That might be more of the "ground upgrades" instead of big 3 upgrade. Will this help stop my alternator from whining/screaming lol. Ill try disconnect the wires that were installed and start the car up in the morning to see if the noise still happens. It doesn't really go away when I'm driving I can still hear it, just a little softer since the hood is closed while driving.

Ill try test some other things out tomorrow, hopefully someone knows the fix for this.

Heres a video clip of how it sounds, WARNING turn down the volume.... Its loud lol

http://youtu.be/LBS-6ToD9XI

350

iTrader: (4)

I wonder if your alt was already on the way out? Weird, I've had zero issues with mine. I also did more grounds than you too though, around the intake manifold as you mentioned and to the TB. I also have a larger ground cable on the battery. I guess disconnect it and report back. If the noise goes away with it disconnected, maybe try a smaller fuse on the + wire from alt to battery. The fuse should me matched to the wire gauge otherwise the wire could melt before the fuse pops. Also it probably shouldn't exceed the max output of the alt but I'm not sure what that is or if it would make a difference.

teeeejaay

Ok ill be trying that today, weird cause the alternator is 2 months old. lol! Wonder if its a defect? Hope its just the fuse or something simple. I was wondering if maybe im lacking more grounds like yours, if that would affect the noise. But ill start with disconnecting and if it goes away ill have to see if anyone knows why lol

Thanks bro

pohljm

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-photograph-gallery-96/hyper-voltage-grounding-kit-install-606115/

thats what I did and have no unusual noises. perhaps that new alternator has a bad bearing or somethin.

I hate cars

Does the alternator case get really hot really quick after a cold start? Any issues with the navi screen such as lines on the screen, even moving lines?

teeeejaay

I can check of it gets hot I haven't checked that yet. But I'm non-navi
My lights don't flicker or anything. Even when the car is warmed up it makes this noise. All the way till I turn it off.

teeeejaay

I was reading your thread also, but do u think its a ground issue since I don't have mine grounded as much as yours like on the throttle body, trans, etc

teeeejaay

So i just unplugged the "big 3 upgrade" wires from alternator, manifold, and ground. and also removed them from the battery terminals.

NO whine noise anymore... this is weird.
Does anyone have a fix for this? Do i need more grounding points?

teeeejaay

Ok guys sooooo I went outside to disconnect it. and reconnected the stock wiring. Bam works fine.
Thennnn I grabbed some sand paper and sanded down the stock ground area on body for the negative battery side. Also sanded down the area on the top of the manifold area where I connected the one ground wire.
Put the wires back together and started the car. Works like a charm so far, no noise.
Also tightened the alternator positive side, it was a tad bit loose but not a lot.

forgot to mention that my fuse was 80A also
Im going to go for a drive hopefully the whine noise is gone for good.

And also plan on adding 2-3 more ground wires. To the trans, the other side of the manifold to the alternator, and the engine to the body.
Thanks for the input guys!

teeeejaay

Today I sat down and thought about somethings.

Dont laugh at me for the reason, but it was from the P2R thermal Intake manifold spacer was warped/melted and also there was a thin spot on about 3 of the 6 holes. Ill upload pictures to tell you guys, but I really hope Marcus can help me with this defective product.

Before I put anyone on blast, I would like to know if he can help either issue a refund, or a replacement with the non defective holes. I might not even want another one after I found another thread showing peoples ones melted.

I called Marcus today and asked him about the whine/high pitch noise. He assured me that it wasnt the gasket/spacer I just installed because it was only 2 weeks. He said that was too soon and it must be a "installation error" that i Installed it wrong...
Then he told me to check for vacuum leaks, he explained to me how to check them and that was cool of him. I went home to check out what was going on by spraying carb cleaner by the gasket areas and hoses. I went for the "P2R" gasket right off the batt and that was making my cars idle weird. So right away I knew that was the problem. I sprayed the right side of the intake manifold gasket area and no funky idle. Then tested the left side again and sure enough again it made my idle weird.

So i told myself, give the product a chance and tighten the bolts and 2 nuts more. Maybe it was loose? Sure enough I take off the cover, and tighten the bolts and nuts. I put the cover back on tighten everything and start the car again. I heard less of a leak, but when I sprayed the left side of the gasket it made a funky idle again. Tried it 3 more times letting it rest for few sec and tried again, and again...etc... Finally gave up and took off the whole manifold and removed the P2r Thermal gasket.

I put a new stock gasket i had in my garage on and i connected everything and tightened it up again. Made sure connections were connected etc.. Started the car and did the test again on the left side. NO weird idle. and did the test 3 more times to make sure. NO weird idle.

So this is where im at. car is put together again. letting it rest for a hour or so then going to test it again.
I already disconnected the battery so the ecu doesnt get messed up. Oh and forgot to mention. when I was testing it by spraying it in the leaking area of the gasket. I noticed that threw on my CEL light. So im pretty sure that wasnt supposed to happen lol

Lets hope that fixes it, and sorry for the misleading tittle of this thread, but thats what I thought was the problem. Didnt expect this new gasket to be defective in 2 weeks of having it on.

I would rather try the outlaw engineering gasket but im not sure if they are in business still. I couldnt find any

Hope this can help someone in the future.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

I know others have had problems with the P2R spacers, I have an outlaw one myself. Can't seem to find the outlaw engineering website anymore, maybe they went out of business that sucks.

Those bolts have a torque pattern to follow in like 2-3 steps, do you have a copy of the service manual yet?

I'm on the island, if you end up needing a gasket I've got an extra brand new OEM metal gasket that you could have that I won't need, would be happy to help out I've got some torque wrenches that I use for those bolts that are +/- 1% to get that if you need a hand drop me a PM.

Those click style wrenches with the spring in them are garbage.