Hey guys,

I have 07 TL-S @ 56k miles and I recently ran into an AC problem.

I first encountered this problem while driving long distance (150 miles?)

My AC works perfectly then after 150 miles into driving it just kinda got low - BOTH fan speed and temperature.

Even it's at fan speed 5 + temp at Lo, it would feel like fan speed 1 or less (but still loud as what fan speed 5 would sound like but only would blow in so little)

It doesn't blow hot air tho, just cool/slight cold air but barely any fan speed and if i turn off the car for 15 mins or so it would start to work again perfectly and then after driving 20 mins or so it would go down.

I'm trying to get some ideas before I go to the dealers to check it out so they don't throw some outrageous numbers at me haha or if there's anything I can troubleshoot myself, I would do it before I take my car there.

Only thing I tried was mess around with fan speed, auto on off, ac on off, different modes - didn't work, letting car restart / rest - worked but back into problem after driving ~15mins @@

Any ideas / experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! ><

 

1: check your cabin filter
2: you can check the blend door motor by seeing if air is coming out of the correct vents
3: does the fan sound change as you adjust the fan speed setting (i.e. get louder at a higher setting)?
4: adjust the temp from hi to lo and see if the water control valve opens/closes (it's on the firewall I think)
5: when you hit AC ON/OFF, does the engine idle change briefly? this will at least indicate if the compressor is kicking on

 

I think you are icing the evaporator which in turn blocks air flow into the cabin.

I had a different brand car do this many years ago. After driving for prolonged periods the flow from the vents would be diminished. Turning off the AC for 10 minutes would clear the problem as the ice would melt. In this car you could actually see the evaporator when you opened the hood and see the ice. I don't think you can actually see the coils in the TL. I was too poor back then to deal with it so I'd just turn off the AC for a while until I got too uncomfortable

As to how to fix I'm not sure. Google "icing evaporator car ac" and you will get many, many hits. You do not need to go to the dealer but should be able to find an automotive AC specialist that can troubleshoot. Could be a charge issue, thermal expansion valve, evap temp sensor, or some other temp/pressure sensor.

 

I have/had the exact same problem happen to me. Crazy hot day with AC working fine sitting in stop and go traffic. Symptoms were the same in that air flow diminished and nothing I did seemed to impact or change issue. What I finally did and seemed to work was turn AC off for about 20 mins and everything seemingly came back to normal. I don't typically use my AC all too often or for all that long, but believe I have a low charge issue. AC blows cool, but never cold. I need to get it in to be checked out.
OP - please post a solution when/if you find one.

 

I had a Mazda that did this, iced up the evap, actually had frost come out the vents, installed an off/on thermostat on the evap to cycle the compressor off/on, no more problems.

Having said this, the factory system should have the ability to shut the compressor off before the evap freezes up. Will need to look in the FSM for A/C faults.

There is a way to run a manual check on the HVAC system and fault codes will be displayed on the screen.

 

Thanks Turbo. Still thinking I need a recharge.

 

I too recently had this issue, i figured I had iced something over but am not sure what exactly caused this? I was thinking if I had a leak that would suck and would probably quite pricey to fix. So any other ideas for specifically the TL as some other cars were listed in this thread?!

 

Reference this June 2009 Acura Service News article.

Poor Airflow or Cooling After Extended Highway Driving With A/C On
Currently Applies To: All models with A/C
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SN/B09060C.PDF
http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/B09060C.PDF

 

^ excellent advice

 

Just drove about 30 miles and my AC was fine, I'm hoping the problem is gone but most likely not.. I guess it has to be a longer run x.x

Thanks Vlad, I just ordered new cabin filter just in case (needed a new one anyway) and will try to check others.

Adobeman, when my AC stopped working, I could visibly see white cloud coming out of the vents, maybe because it was icing? hm.

Turbo, How would I manually check the system? was it that pressing on off button with other button at the same time thing? I remember reading it somewhere but forgot ><

EE4LIFE thanks for the service articles!! I guess they're aware of this problem huh that's the exact problem I'm having @@

I would probably drop by the dealers sometime this week I'll update on what happens

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/strangest-c-problem-ever-831545/

 

Turbo, thanks for the link! so I ran the test and I got a top and bottom right lit on the first 88 on the passenger side (looked like incomplete 7)

I think it's C: and I: right?

c- open in the outside air temp sensor circuit
i- open in the air mix control circuit

whatever that means... haha!

 

FROM Turbonut

Turn ignition on
Press and hold the OFF button. While holding the OFF button, press the circulation button 5 times within 10 seconds. Release the OFF button and the self-diagnostic will begin.

If there are any problems in the system, the temperature indicator will light up the segment of (A through S) corresponding to the error. The temperature indicator will then alternate every second between displaying "88" (all segments lit) and error code (A through S). To determine the meaning of the code you'll need to the DTC troubleshooting index.

If there is no problem detected, the segments will not illuminate.

Turn off the ignition switch to cancel the test.

Each part of the "88" indicates, or translates to a specific letter, e.g. top of the first 8 on the driver's side is a C, top of second is a D, passenger side temp, top of first 8 is a L, etc. and each segment indicates a specific problem.

Don't have a scanner so can't load the detection code values, but just as an example, if the top of the first 8 is lit, that would translate to a C:

C-An open in the outside air temperature sensor circuit.

At least you can see if there are any codes to indicate a problem within the system.

Check your codes:

 

I just ran the diagnostic in my car and it completed with no issues. I ran it three times and each time it completed with no codes. So I guess I am just low on freon and need a recharge.

 

@the dealership will update later

 

They said it was passenger air mix motor. parts and labor will cost 416 includes ac evac and recharge.

I can prob get the motor for 100 and do it my self with DIY but if i do that still have to pay for diagnostic (120) and have to get recharge too.

Any suggestions?@@

 

okay, nevermind

i have to get air mix motor done - 416.95
full ac service recover and recharge (ac evac and recharge) - 313.09

i think to fix MY problem, i just gotta do the evac and recharge which will fix the freezing issue

air mix motor on the passenger side i dont really care cuz long as my side temp is alright

but damn after doing the diagnostic so found so many other problems its giving me a headache

-replace front engine mount - 440
-replace right engine mount - 216
-transmission mount - 318
- power steering pump - 478

da fawk!!! time to get a new car? ><

 

Only gonna take a hit on the diagnostic ( they will refund if i do the service here) for now hopefully some of you guys will guide me to the right direction >< any thoughts?

 

Sorry if you posted this, but does the compressor cycle on and off, or stay on?

 

It's really hard to say for sure but my guess is you don't need all the mounts or the PS pump. Are you suffering any symptoms with them? An 07 with 56Kmi seems early for mounts unless you are absolutely stomping every start. But, I don't have the -S or an AT so maybe the extra motor size and AT matters.

As for the AC what about the C and I codes you thought you got? Dealer didn't see them? If your threw a G or H that would have been more interesting I think. You may just need an evac and recharge as you say but make sure that the bad air mix motor couldn't be contributing to the problem.

Then again, you could do nothing ! You may want to get a quote on an evac/recharge from an indie. Seriously, I doubt it will be nearly as high.

 

5XK seems early for mounts but if they have to replace one, might as well get them all. with one broke, the others are being beat pretty good. I have 02 CLS and I am easy on the throttle and I had to do my mounts at 118K....

 

OP, what were the high and low side pressures and what was the outside air temperature when they took the readings? If they can't answer that question, then they are taking you for a ride as far as an evan/recharge goes...

 

I think they said my Low pressure was fine but my High was like 150? supposed to be higher they said

My friend also has a little shop, I asked him if he can do ac evac / charge he said he does and will do it for 60.

I paid 120 for diagnostics @ the dealers and they said if I get it done there it would apply to my repair which is now 229 instead of 316 cuz i told them other acura dealer up north will do for 200.

so if i do it at the dealer it would be 109, my friends shop, 60. Not sure how reliable my friends shop is tbh lol!

so i'm in a dilemma atm ><

 

Um I think it stays on, not sure how to tell the difference if it would cylce on and off tbh.. ><

 

I'm not really feeling anything out of ordinary about the engine mounts or the ps pump. But they said it was leaking so hmmm i guess its leaking ><

I printed out that decode thing and told them about it, but they had to run the diagnostic anyway so the results were low pressure - need evac / recharge

and bad passenger air motor mixer (I don't hear any clickings or temperature difference on the passenger side so i might just not do this repair for now)

 

Yeah i thought it was little early but they said you have to consider the time to (7 years)

they said they use some kind of "hollow" rubber so they wear out faster now compared to before when they used solid pieces and thicker rubbers and they changed to hollow rubber for better ride or more luxury feeling or w/e bs my SA was talking about i forgot lol.

but ya pretty expensive to get the rubbers replaces because its labor intensive @@

 

One can hear when the compressor engages/disengages as the engine rpm changes. Reason I ask is that if the compressor stays on usually the expansion valve bad.