ps2250

Hello All,
I'll try to keep this brief but I'm not optimistic. I have a 2005 Tl, MT. Last May, I installed LED lights for my HVAC buttons; also installed an ipod adapter at the same time so the whole mid dash area was taken apart. The LEDs I used seemed to have some quality issues in terms of fit and I couldn't tell which side was + or -, so I reversed them with the lights on. I noticed a small spark by the socket when I did this; all the AC and nav lights went out-- if I remember correctly, the number 4 fuse blew under the hood at that time. I replaced it but AC and nav lights didn't come on but then, after a few days, did for a few weeks, in and out after that, once or twice after that but then nothing. I thought I might have blown the bulbs somehow, so I replaced them with factory bulbs but still nothing. All the buttons work but no dash lights. I tested the 14 point, A connector; everything seemed to test out except for cavity 2, which, for reasons I can't understand, shows .1v when brightness is set to max and 8.5 when it is set to the lowest setting. At this point, I got tired of pulling the car apart and putting it back together so I took it to a local car electric specialist who told me he didn't find anything but wanted to sent the display panel in for repair and they'd fix it for $800.00. I said I'd think about it; figured if I was going to spend that kind of money I could go to the dealer which I did. They gave me a loaner, told me they'd ship it off to Alpine which they did; Alpine said I'd need to spend 3800.00 for a new unit; didn't say what was wrong with the old one. I declined this offer. And, to the dealer's credit, he didn't charge me anything for the visit. So, figuring there MUST be something I could do differently, I pulled it out again, tested them again and got the same results; this time when I put it back, the navigation buttons didn't work although I can still control the system through voice and touch control.

I am befuddled by the whole thing as it seems to me that the problem must be outside the actual unit, otherwise cavity 2 would be battery voltage when lights are on. I'd buy a used display panel if I thought that was the problem but it seems that something else is at work and lord knows I could have bumped something under the dash with all the moving around I've done under there. And, everything works except the lights and now the lower nav buttons. It seems more like a short or a ground problem somewhere outside of the nav unit but this whole thing is so complicated and my expertise is pretty questionable, given my results. Any insight into this problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

Next time dont try and install LED's especially when the original white bulbs (or red for Type S) look awesome as is ;-)

Im not a tech, but something in my head is pointing me to some sort of interior light switch as being a culprit most likely the dimmer switch near the cluster. The only reason im mentioning this was because years ago I messed up some lights on the interior of some old toyota similar to what you did, and it ended up frying the headlight switch/dimmer switch. I know our headlight switch is located on the stalk, but the dimmer itself is up near the cluster and thats what actually went bad. Again, I dont want to lead you in a wrong direction or to start throwing parts at the car. If its not those I would say maybe the entire center stack is shot. Just an FYI I have seen them all over ebay for somewhat reasonable price.
But now that I read that you are having some issues with some of the buttons actually functioning is kind of leading me towards the entire thing just being messed up.

Well either way goodluck with everything.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

THE ENTIRE PCB IS BLOWN AND WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED. I know this from a similar experience.

I was the first one here to perform a full LED retrofit, and I buggered a connection in a steering wheel control, and the entire board went. The tracers on the board are a network, and you crossed the wrong path. Follow the silk screen tracings on any board in this car - the positive lead is a circuit that branches many points, not just a 1:1 to the bulb on many of these connections. It likely killed a resistor and followed through.

I replaced the board, and viola, we're lit again.

The installation or LED is at fault. The spark means you grounded with overcurrent, which likley took some critical components out with it. Funny part is? It's probably a $0.17 component. If you have a multimeter, start tracing the #2 cavity components and testing for resistance, capacitance, and the like.

No, tell me more about this LED - did it not fit? And in what capacity?

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Oh, and sorry - this really sucks and if anyone here can empathize with you, it's me.

I KNOW how frustrating/upsetting this is.

ps2250

Just getting back to this as haven't had the time to pull this thing apart for some time. Thanks for the suggestions and empathy. I don't think it's the dimmer switch as everything else dims fine. It would be nice if it was, however.
It, does, however, sound like a resistor but i'm not sure I follow what to do. PCB just means toxic waste to me and I can't find it my manual, I won't even go into silk screen-- are you talking about the schematic?
As to the bulbs, they just didn't click in like the Honda ones do; you can't tell when they've locked in the proper position, some of the LEDs don't fit in the hole without a certain amount of cajoling and they strip easily.
Thanks

ps2250

Alright, able to understand that PCB is Printed Circuit board but which one? Where is it and can it be replaced?
thanks