My wife's TLS AC unit is blowing hot air....again...we are on the 3rd AC Compressor from Acura. I am taking the car into the dealership tomorrow to see if it is the compressor again. The one we have now is 18 months old.

Anyone else had repeated issues with the AC unit in the TLS model? I really do not want to have to put another $1K into what I think is a defective part or system. The car has ~30K miles and is in pristine condition. It has always been serviced at the dealership.

Any thoughts or advice on how to deal with the dealership when they tell me I have top shell out more money? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!

Tim

 

run this diagnostic test:


Turn ignition on
Press and hold the OFF button. While holding the OFF button, press the circulation button 5 times within 10 seconds. Release the OFF button and the self-diagnostic will begin.

If there are any problems in the system, the temperature indicator will light up the segment of (A through S) corresponding to the error. The temperature indicator will then alternate every second between displaying "88" (all segments lit) and error code (A through S). To determine the meaning of the code you'll need to the DTC troubleshooting index.

If there is no problem detected, the segments will not illuminate.

Turn off the ignition switch to cancel the test.

Each part of the "88" indicates, or translates to a specific letter, e.g. top of the first 8 on the driver's side is a C, top of second is a D, passenger side temp, top of first 8 is a L, etc. and each segment indicates a specific problem.

Don't have a scanner so can't load the detection code values, but just as an example, if the top of the first 8 is lit, that would translate to a C:

C-An open in the outside air temperature sensor circuit.

At least you can see if there are any codes to indicate a problem within the system.

 

compressor is failing since the system is running low on refrigerant and the compressor tirelessly runs to compress non-existent refrigerant. Find the leak and then get another compressor. That's a shit job of acura diagnosing it as they should have figured it out by the 2nd compressor.

 

I took it to a different dealership in West Palm...from the original Delray one...
Here is the diagnosis:

Checked A/C Clutch relay - Okay
Compressor Clutch still not engaging
recharged system and added dye to trace
While recharging system, found clutch cycled on but compressor not pumping...

Need new compressor

Went back to Delray dealership since it all started with them...waiting to hear...

Tim

 

I have a similar problem with my A/C. I never hear the compressor kick on. But I'm have more problems than that though

 

CSB. But I think you need to talk to a shrink about those


Check your fuses and A/C relays

 

More than that. I can shift right out of gear without hitting the break. and battery drain.

 

what are your pressure readings?


When they did the compressor the first time did they drain the oil out of the original compressor to see how much they needed to add back? if they did not drain and refill, you would be boned as replacement compressors may have too little/no oil to have been filled to capacity (bad)

 

Any warranty with the new compressor or will it be more out of pocket money? Factory OEM parts are quite expensive compared to aftermarket.
Actually most A/C systems are quite reliable, but as you've experienced, once in a while a part will go bad and if not repaired correctly, it becomes a nightmare.

Usually when the gas gets low, the low pressure switch doesn't allow the compressor to operate so it isn't run without oil. This is to save the compressor under low pressure conditions, so if the compressor is destroyed, chances are it's not from low gas.

Depending on why the original compressor was replaced, but if it was a failure of the compressor, the entire system could have been contaminated by the broken pieces from the compressor and a great amount of work/parts are needed to do a thorough repair.

If system was contaminated, the compressor, receiver/dryer, expansion valve all need to be replaced, condenser checked carefully as some newer condensers have such small passages, the debris gets lodged and can't be removed requiring a new condenser. Then a complete flush of the system, hoses each way, evaporator, etc. After all the work, the correct oil and amount needs to be added to the system and with all the problems, maybe an in-line filter between the condenser and evaporator.

 

I have run into almost the reverse issue where it is only blowing cold air and not hot air. Even when on 81 degrees, its blowing like max AC cold. This only changes when I put the temp to the maximum "HI", and then heat begins to run through the vents and I back it down to the desired temp. Anyone run into anything remotely similar??

 

Heater control valve