Hello,

I was on E and rode with gas light for a short time. I filled up to a little over a half tank and jumped on the highway. Got to my destination where the car sat parked for about 2 hourss. Left my destination, got back on the highway made a stop. Shortly after, started out again in stop and go traffic, got to a parking lot and drove about 5mph while talking on the HFL. When I went to pull out the lot, my engine stalled out of nowhere! It felt like the car was about to cut off.

I pressed my foot on the gas very hard and right away the car started driving normally again....My oil life is at 40% however, I have noticed my car has been driving sluggish the past week or so. Also, once I got going for a few blocks the check engine cap light came on.

Has anyone else out there experienced anything like this? Could this incident be signs pointing to the fuel pump going bad?

Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

fuel pump, injector, pressure regulator. Normally if the car stall it has to do with either ignition, intake and/or fuel. Go see what is the code for and report back

 

Had the same thing happen except filling up gas. Torn intake boot (causing a vacuum leak) and EGR valve was clogged. Runs normal after replacing and cleaning.

 

Thanks was the repair costly? I plan on taking to the dealer on Monday and want to be prepared.

 

Thanks I have not gotten any codes the only consistent thing I have been noticing lately is the "check engine cap" light coming on. Normally after I put a few highway miles on it the light disappears.

Also, forgot to mention the car has 94k miles on it. Not sure if this makes a diffrence...

 

Always fill up with 93+ or premium gas as required in the owner's manual to avoid engine knock even if the knock sensor might take care of that you don't want to put cheap gas in a high performance engine.
Inspect and replace gas cap if needed, you should hear a hiss when you unscrew it to refill that's normal, also check the gas tank neck filler for rust, see if anything smells like gasoline by the driver's side rear wheel.
If everything checks okay you might have a fuel delivery or EGR problem somewhere which surely leads to engine stall. Could be a lot of things to look at fuel filter clogged, since you ran on empty, some gas tank impurities and water accumulated in there got past the fuel pump screen. A scan tool for engine codes could be helpful but not always. One engine code leads to another, anything like misfire codes will not tell you much.

 

the gas cap message for 07-08 TL is pretty common its because a bad purge valve canister that give false reading. This along can not causing your car to stall. Check EGR passage and make sure it does not get block with carbon, I always filled my car up with Shell V-power now with Nitrogen.

 

When I initially reported on this issue I had no codes...only code I saw was check gas cap. Well low and behold the check engine light came on....I followed the advice here and opened the gas cap and closed it slowly while letting it click 3 times. When I got back in the car to take it to the dealer the check engine light disappeared. The dealer did a road test and checked for stored codes. They also looked for noises upon startup, below is my result.

Noise coming from engine area upon startup, sounds like the timing belt tensioner has some slack. Due for timing belt service@100k miles, COST $2089, plus tax.

Customer states car feels sluggish, advised to use premium fuel. Check for codes, code P2610 found with ignition off. Ignition timer malfunction. Check diagnostic flow chart, check for PCM update. Performed update to PCM, main computer. Cleared codes and completed road test, check engine light did not return.

With the above being said I was told when the computer software in the car needs to be udpated you will get codes and the driveability of the car will be impacted. This sounds really strange to me and I voiced my concern as to why this is not included as a part of the regular maintenance if it is something that will impact driveability? I never got a strait answer so I called Acura consumer relations. They basically told me its just like a regular home computer, when you get a virus your computer performs badly at random. He said the car computer works the same way.

Would like to hear any input, thanks.

 

Don't worry about the timing belt change unless the tensioner gets really noisy or service "A4" shows up on the MID. That timing belt service estimate is on the high side, BTW. Many dealers and independents will do it for $1K, give or take, and they will change out the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, accessory belt, pulley, etc. at the same time.

Yes, sometimes the TL and other cars need a "reflash" or update to the electronics-- PCM/ECM, ECU, etc. It happens with some TLs, but not most of them.

Hope your problem is resolved now, and welcome to AZ.

 

PCM update is nothing new or unusual on our TL especially the 07-08 model, TB tensioner goes bad but how bad? does the noise goes away after engine warmed up? if it constantly makes noise then its time to replace. I had a bad tensioner since I bought the car back in 2012 at 60k miles, I drove the car for 3 years and do TB/WP at 87k miles earlier this year. The noise only present during cold start up once the engine warm up its gone. BTW I got my TB/WP replace by Acura dealer for $1350 (for the whole service) but I bought the kit my self for $250 instead of $550 (dealer price) and have them install it the labor come out to $810. Grand total is $1060.

 

Thanks so much for the info, the cost really blew my mind for the service. I got pissed as soon as they told me....I will check out my alternatives for this service. BTW, they made it sound like this was a crucial service. They told me if I didnt do it all sorts of issues could arise, even blowing the whole engine out. So I know I have to do it, but will research my cost options prior to committing.

I drove the car alot today, both highway and stop and go. I notice the car still feels sluggish even after I filled up again with premium gas. And now the check gas cap light keeps coming on.

I see the feedback I got on the gas cap message and there is also another thread going on right now discussing this issue I will check out.

Appreciate the feedback and knowledge you guys have shared on my problem.

 

I only hear the noise at startup and then it goes away. Also, I notice the car seems to feel like it drives more heavy while the AC is running if this means anything????

 

I also forgot to mention in all the info I provided...it seems my gas is burning out quicker. I plan on taking back to dealer tomm or Tues and stress my concerns and see if they check the egr valve. I will report back midweek.

Thanks

 

Yes, having the AC on will make it feel a little sluggish. Very noticeable if you car is a manual.

 

the tensioner is leaking fluid which make your TB loose causing the noise, once engine temp up to operating the tensioner work like it should this is why the noise goes away. You can actually drive the car like this but don't push it too hard until the noise is completely gone. There are a chance that your TB can skip tooth result in incorrect timing similar to TB breaks (this is what the dealer talking about). like I said I drove the car for 3 years 26k miles with no problem with engine blow up, just make sure the noise is gone if you decide to push it. Gas cap message can be fix for $90 and 10 mins.

 

do not fill from BP or some shitty gas station! Always go with Shell V Power.

 

 

check the accessory belt tensioner and make sure that isn't slipping. It could be slipping due to a binding alternator or power steering pump issue. Remove the belt and spin each one by hand including the A/C pulley.