2Shots

New to Acurazine, so thank you in advance to all the people on here. 2007 Acura TL, 215k miles with most tune up done, except for timing. Car has a rough idle and when I drive 15-30 minutes in, if I brake all the way, or go below around 800-1000rpms the car dies. Right after dying, it takes about 5-10 minutes for it to finally crank all the way over and start up. It is my daily and new to the mechanical scene of cars, just wanted any advice or tips that can be the problem. No codes are being thrown but I did talk to a buddy of mine and said it might be a faulty Fuel Pump Relay, which I replaced and did not fix it. Again thank you in advance!

peter6

Something wrong with the brake booster? Plug / pinch the hose going to the booster and check. Just be careful as you will lose the brake assist so probably not that good idea to drive the car with hose plugged.

Or do you mean that every time that rpm go below 800-1000 car dies? As "brake all the way" meaning "if I stop while driving and RPM drops below 800" ?

What are fuel trims? Pending codes? (cheap scanners might not read pending codes)

Pair of TLs

I'd check out that rough idle, first.
Fuel pump??

Chad05TL

I would do the easy stuff first and check your PCV valve. Make sure it is not clogged. See video below.

If the PCV vable is ok, then maybe check the MAP sensor??? But if there are no codes, that usually tends to remove any electronic problems.. Still a MAP sensor may not be working properly..
My initial thought was "check the IAC valve".. in the old days, an incorrectly operating Choke would cause rough idle and maybe even dying.. But that was replaced with a IAC valve many years ago with EFI.. But these TL's do not have a IAC.. IAC's were eliminated and I think that data is now extrapolated from the MAP sensor using funky math in their algorithms. But if the map sensor is bad, I would think it may give a code..But then again, not necesarily.. Its all about the "range" of the sensor which may be out of whack. Ultimately, You would need computer or a diagnostic tool to read the output range of the MAP sensor to verify it works within the proper range instead of having just 1 constant output voltage, which would be incorrect, but it may not be enough to set a trouble code.. So, it may be worth checking it out AFTER you verify your PVC valve is not clogged.

PCV are easy to check and cheap to replace. And they may not throw a code.

Chad05TL

1 other thing.. You may check for vacuum leaks.
I think the front motor mount works on a vacuum too. So verify that tube is connected.
Your brakes may work on a vacuum too. I have no idea. I never looked into it.