When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi I have a 2007 Acura TL and over the last year I have replaced a battery and an alternator. I went to the store today and came back out and it wouldn’t start. The only thing it did is click, wouldn’t crank or turn over, I even threw it in neutral, still nothing, all of the lights come on and accessories work as they should, it just won’t turn over for anything. Is there in fuses that could cause this or am I looking at a new starter. Side note:it does something Similar to this occasionally (once every two weeks or so) but if I put it in neutral it starts just fine.
I have this exact same issue. If I take a short trip when I go to restart the car it doesn’t start. Battery is strong, starter seems strong and my HFL has been disconnected for quite sometime 2007 Acura TL 87.9k miles it’s super frustrating because I can’t figure out what the issue is. I changed the A/C Compressor relay, but I don’t think that was the issue...it seems a lot of people have this problem the more research I do, but there doesn’t seem to be any real solutions and I’m not in a position financially to just start changing parts until the issue stops..
Starting system is not too complicated. If it clicks loudly, then most likely starter is going bad. But the click must be coming from under the hood - not from relays in interior fuse-box. If not sure either check if starter solenoid is getting power, or try to jump the starter directly from the battery positive.
Here's the diagram for auto 07-08. Other models will be different. There's is couple fuses to check.
Starting system is not too complicated. If it clicks loudly, then most likely starter is going bad. But the click must be coming from under the hood - not from relays in interior fuse-box. If not sure either check if starter solenoid is getting power, or try to jump the starter directly from the battery positive.
Here's the diagram for auto 07-08. Other models will be different. There's is couple fuses to check.
Thanks Pete! I will try to work on it this weekend using this information, and post back here.
Car doesn't display anything about checking starting system, right? If it wasn't clicking and battery is not dead, then I would start with checking out listed fuses.
Next step after fuses, figure out if starter solenoid is getting good power. Maybe try to jump the solenoid to battery positive to see if it will crank.
If starter is good, then take out Cut relay #2
When attempting to start the car, one side of this relay coil should have good power, and other should have a good ground. (pin #3 and pin #4 on schematic) (use test light)
If no ground, then take a look at trans range switch. If no power then pcm is not sending a signal, check the ignition switch. If both present check if power appears at pin #1 of the same relay when attempting to crank.
Update:I took out the starter and had it tested and it is confirmed to be faulty, makes sense, on NYE my father said he heard it going bad but didn’t know if that’s just the way it sounded. Anyway, I have a starter coming in later, hopefully that is the only issue.
Update:I took out the starter and had it tested and it is confirmed to be faulty, makes sense, on NYE my father said he heard it going bad but didn’t know if that’s just the way it sounded. Anyway, I have a starter coming in later, hopefully that is the only issue.
The problem I have with pointing a finger at the starter is what you wrote in your first post, "...but if I put it in neutral it starts just fine." Maybe it's just me, but I cannot wrap my brain around a starter which always works when a car is in neutral as being identified as a bad starter.
Update:I took out the starter and had it tested and it is confirmed to be faulty, makes sense, on NYE my father said he heard it going bad but didn’t know if that’s just the way it sounded. Anyway, I have a starter coming in later, hopefully that is the only issue.
I am weary about assuming it’s the starter because when the car starts it starts strong and gives me no indication that it’s going bad. I am truly perplexed by what this issue is being caused by, and don’t really wanna take it to a mechanic who will just start guessing and replacing things that don’t need replacing. It’s almost as if the alternator is only charging the battery sometimes and I’m more likely to lean towards that, because the battery will take and hold a charge. Idk, it’s a frustrating issue for sure.
And the Acura dealership mechanics don’t seem to be good for much other than telling you what they want to replace rather than addressing the actual problem you’re having.
Sorry, my bad, I somehow missed we were talking about two different cars here. @Gunmetal908, have you replaced your positive battery cable? I ask because I had an intermittent starting issue last year on my TL and I traced it to the cable. Mine looked perfectly intact, however, I found by playing with the cable during no-start scenarios, the engine would start with no issues. I then purchased a new cable from one of the online Acura parts stores and haven't had a problem since (seven months and nearly 20,000 miles).
Sorry, my bad, I somehow missed we were talking about two different cars here. @Gunmetal908, have you replaced your positive battery cable? I ask because I had an intermittent starting issue last year on my TL and I traced it to the cable. Mine looked perfectly intact, however, I found by playing with the cable during no-start scenarios, the engine would start with no issues. I then purchased a new cable from one of the online Acura parts stores and haven't had a problem since (seven months and nearly 20,000 miles).
this actually makes sense because both times I’ve had the issue, I’ve disconnected the terminal and reconnected it for cleaning or replacing the connector and both times it started after using the cable, I will replace the positive and negative cables and see what happens if it solves the issue
Funny thing that first you complain about mechanics throwing parts at the car and now you are going to do the same.
No hard feelings, happy new year, check voltage at the starter when cranking when it fails to start to check the cable's condition. Or check the voltage difference between starter and battery positive terminal / body ground and negative terminal.
Funny thing that first you complain about mechanics throwing parts at the car and now you are going to do the same.
Except I’m making an educated guess based on what I’ve encountered with this problem so far, and what other people who have had this exact same problem are telling me. I am going to run some test as you advised anyway, if it happens again, didn’t have the problem today to/from work so we’ll see.
this actually makes sense because both times I’ve had the issue, I’ve disconnected the terminal and reconnected it for cleaning or replacing the connector and both times it started after using the cable, I will replace the positive and negative cables and see what happens if it solves the issue
I suppose changing the negative cable cannot hurt, but I don't believe I've ever heard of that cable having an issue in the 3G TL; I have however read of numerous posters having issues with the positive cable.
I will keep all of this information in mind. Thank you guys for all the help so far. And I will keep you posted over the weekend as I attempt to tackle this issue.
I had this same problem a few years ago. Have you checked the + battery cable? At this age, it may be corroded internally where you can't see it. Turned out mine couldn't handle enough juice to start the car. Betchya that's it!
When I explained the problem to Paul, our star master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy, he INSTANTLY knew what the problem was!
.
.
I had this same problem a few years ago. Have you checked the + battery cable? At this age, it may be corroded internally where you can't see it. Turned out mine couldn't handle enough juice to start the car. Betchya that's it!
When I explained the problem to Paul, our star master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy, he INSTANTLY knew what the problem was!
.
.
if you don’t mind me asking where in North Jersey are you? I’m in Union County (Roselle to be specific) and could use a good mechanic when something comes up that’s above my level of aptitude
if you don’t mind me asking where in North Jersey are you? I’m in Union County (Roselle to be specific) and could use a good mechanic when something comes up that’s above my level of aptitude
Paul is in Clifton, not very far from you at all. 201-562-8576. The only mechanic allowed to touch my car. Tell him Don (The) sent ya!
.
.
Gunmetal908, how did you do with Paul? It was the + battery cable, wasn't it?
seems to have been, and he was TOP NOTCH thanks for the recommendation he’s about 40 mins away from me, but as Long as I don’t need any emergency work, he’s the only person that will be touching my Acura