2006 TL a couple of problems I need help with.
2006 TL a couple of problems I need help with.
So my car has quite a few issues that have just started happening lately. The most important ones that scare me is that during a cold start, my car make a loud clicking/ ratlle sounds. It gets louder with acceleration, and when you stop acceleration it'll make a gurgling /bubbly sound as the rpms drop and you slow down. Also during a cold start and with all the noises I just listed, if I'm driving and it's cold when I try to go faster with full throttle acceleration it won't go, and the rpms will just go high as if the car is in neutral, but it's being driven. These problems just get louder aso time progresses and I don't have money to send it to a mechanic , just so they can charge me a lot of money to pick away at the engine. Last thing that was done to the car was a valve adjustment, which the symptoms I've stated were already there before, and I hoped the valve adjustment would get rid of the noise but it didn't.
I didn't really get help on my last post. Everyone just said pulley, belt, sensor. I don't know if you're saying that take the belt off, or how to know if something is wrong with the belt or pulleys, plus I wasn't very specific in my last post , this post has more info on the problem. Also I should add everything goes back the normal when it's warm
The advice you got, was pretty much the same thing I would tell you. Most common issue is the belt tensioner and belt. Next common thing is the power steering pump O-Ring which causes a whining noise and goes away when warm. Best thing you can do is make a video of the problem. Diagnosis on line won't necessarily be the right fix. We can only guess and give you a direction. You might also have a transmission issue. Part of your noise could be a transmission whine. See, generally when cold, most fluids aren't up to temp. The transmission is just as critical as the oil, power steering, coolant ect. A lot of people think oil flow is only critical on cold start-up's, but that's wrong. I believe your transmission has an issue and I also think you have two different noises going on. One from the tensioner and belt setup, the other being the transmission. Again, guessing here without a video of what's going on. If you do have a transmission problem, it would be the deciding factor on keeping the vehicle or moving on to something better / reliable. Keep us posted.
The advice you got, was pretty much the same thing I would tell you. Most common issue is the belt tensioner and belt. Next common thing is the power steering pump O-Ring which causes a whining noise and goes away when warm. Best thing you can do is make a video of the problem. Diagnosis on line won't necessarily be the right fix. We can only guess and give you a direction. You might also have a transmission issue. Part of your noise could be a transmission whine. See, generally when cold, most fluids aren't up to temp. The transmission is just as critical as the oil, power steering, coolant ect. A lot of people think oil flow is only critical on cold start-up's, but that's wrong. I believe your transmission has an issue and I also think you have two different noises going on. One from the tensioner and belt setup, the other being the transmission. Again, guessing here without a video of what's going on. If you do have a transmission problem, it would be the deciding factor on keeping the vehicle or moving on to something better / reliable. Keep us posted.
Best thing to do, is take the belt off, start the vehicle and see if the noise goes away. Start eliminating things one by one. If the noise doesn't go away, its engine and exhaust related. If the noise does go away, its one of the rotational accessories (P/S pump, compressor, Alternator, belt & Tensioner). Take it from there and get back to me.
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Best thing to do, is take the belt off, start the vehicle and see if the noise goes away. Start eliminating things one by one. If the noise doesn't go away, its engine and exhaust related. If the noise does go away, its one of the rotational accessories (P/S pump, compressor, Alternator, belt & Tensioner). Take it from there and get back to me.
Best thing to do, is take the belt off, start the vehicle and see if the noise goes away. Start eliminating things one by one. If the noise doesn't go away, its engine and exhaust related. If the noise does go away, its one of the rotational accessories (P/S pump, compressor, Alternator, belt & Tensioner). Take it from there and get back to me.
Alright I forgot to record but I took the belt off, noise was still there. I managed to get a Honda dealer tech to come by and look at it, didn't charge me which was cool. To him he says it sounds like I should change the timing belt and see if that helps. Any thoughts on that possibility?
How many miles on the car? If timing belt isn't done and it's near 105K miles or 7 years it's time to replace. https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...*pics*-784622/
How many miles on the car? If timing belt isn't done and it's near 105K miles or 7 years it's time to replace. https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...*pics*-784622/
Alright I forgot to record but I took the belt off, noise was still there. I managed to get a Honda dealer tech to come by and look at it, didn't charge me which was cool. To him he says it sounds like I should change the timing belt and see if that helps. Any thoughts on that possibility?
That's not good. I had hopes it wasn't engine related. Yes, it's common for the timing belt tensioner to make noise. However, yours sounds more like a water pump on it's way out. Either way, when the timing belt gets done, do it with the water pump and tensioner. As a suggestion, I'd do it sooner than later. Also, I was a Master Technician for 11 years, worked for Acura a few years as a certified technician. I usually go through PM's to help members out.
That's not good. I had hopes it wasn't engine related. Yes, it's common for the timing belt tensioner to make noise. However, yours sounds more like a water pump on it's way out. Either way, when the timing belt gets done, do it with the water pump and tensioner. As a suggestion, I'd do it sooner than later. Also, I was a Master Technician for 11 years, worked for Acura a few years as a certified technician. I usually go through PM's to help members out.
How many miles on the car? If timing belt isn't done and it's near 105K miles or 7 years it's time to replace. https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...*pics*-784622/
click on the link.
Full timing belt service, includes water pump, timing belt and tensioner. I usually suggest doing the belt tensioner and drive belt, only if it's needed. It has to come off anyway, so at that time I inspect the tensioner and belt. The unknown would be the oil pump, if it's leaking. That would be the best time do replace the oil pump, when the timing belt is getting done. Plugs are also due at the same time and a valve adjustment. Also good to inspect the passenger side motor mount. In most cases, its due by the time the timing belt is due. Buy all the OEM parts yourself (tim @oem acura parts.com) (Amazon) (Your dealership) to avoid paying marked up pricing from whoever quotes you to do the job. Find an indy mechanic or have your friend who inspected your car to do the job. Most dealerships charge about 800-1,200 for a complete timing belt job. This doesn't include plugs, valve adjustment or anything else caught / needed. It's a costly repair, but luckily it gets done every 105K.
Generally speaking,
Full timing belt service, includes water pump, timing belt and tensioner. I usually suggest doing the belt tensioner and drive belt, only if it's needed. It has to come off anyway, so at that time I inspect the tensioner and belt. The unknown would be the oil pump, if it's leaking. That would be the best time do replace the oil pump, when the timing belt is getting done. Plugs are also due at the same time and a valve adjustment. Also good to inspect the passenger side motor mount. In most cases, its due by the time the timing belt is due. Buy all the OEM parts yourself (tim @oem acura parts.com) (Amazon) (Your dealership) to avoid paying marked up pricing from whoever quotes you to do the job. Find an indy mechanic or have your friend who inspected your car to do the job. Most dealerships charge about 800-1,200 for a complete timing belt job. This doesn't include plugs, valve adjustment or anything else caught / needed. It's a costly repair, but luckily it gets done every 105K.
Full timing belt service, includes water pump, timing belt and tensioner. I usually suggest doing the belt tensioner and drive belt, only if it's needed. It has to come off anyway, so at that time I inspect the tensioner and belt. The unknown would be the oil pump, if it's leaking. That would be the best time do replace the oil pump, when the timing belt is getting done. Plugs are also due at the same time and a valve adjustment. Also good to inspect the passenger side motor mount. In most cases, its due by the time the timing belt is due. Buy all the OEM parts yourself (tim @oem acura parts.com) (Amazon) (Your dealership) to avoid paying marked up pricing from whoever quotes you to do the job. Find an indy mechanic or have your friend who inspected your car to do the job. Most dealerships charge about 800-1,200 for a complete timing belt job. This doesn't include plugs, valve adjustment or anything else caught / needed. It's a costly repair, but luckily it gets done every 105K.
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