Hi,

I just got my 2006 TL manual yesterday from my local trusted mechanic, who replaced the slipping clutch (I owned the car since 64k, now 69k). I purchased the clutch kit myself from the dealer by VIN, as well as the clutch release bearing myself - guaranteed authentic and fit the model.

The result: the clutch engages VERY low - as soon as you start releasing it from the floor. It's nearly impossible to shift into the first gear from the stop - I may need push-release the clutch pedal 2 or 3 (on occasions more) times before it can be shifted in. Same with 2 gear while already moving - typically take 2 times to press-release the pedal. Third less problematic, higher gears are ok.

The shifting itself is rough - you feel as if you are forcing them in. Before, with the old clutch, it was effortless shifting.

The mechanic ran out of ideas, he says 'it may need some time to break in'. Yesterday, after the short drive, I got back to him and we bled the slave cylinder (it was bled already) - it did not help anything. He also thinks about the increasing the length of the connecting rod to the slave cylinder to increase the travel distance. I do not think it's a good idea though.

Any ideas? I want to rule out the improper clutch installation (can it be installed improperly?) - I used this guy a lot. Can it be master or slave cylinder? Why the cylinders worked fine with the old clutch? Is there anything else to adjust?

With the engine off, the gears shift smoothly, even without operating the clutch - I do not remember if I could do that with the old clutch.

Thanks a lot, community!

 

That's my guess. Maybe you have trapped air inside the system.

 

sounds like improper installation

 

Wouldn't bleeding the slave cylinder release the air? Or you are talking about something different?

 

did your clutch kit come with the special alignment tool?

 

No, it's just like Number 5 on the picture (part number 22105-PGE-325).

 

ditto, bleed the air from the clutch system and see if that helps.

If that doesnt help, bad install. It could be that the self adjusting clutch was not installed properly or installed in the "worn" position hence the super low engagement. Apparently it's pretty easy to release the spring tension for the SAC (the pressure plate is what contains the SAC mechanism).

A special tool is required to properly tension the pressure plate too according to the service manual, otherwise it will be damaged.

see: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/oem-clutch-replacement-tool-799072/

 

Thanks Ez12a for the explanation.

 

thisaznboi88 has a good thread describing how to verify that the SAC mechanism is properly set up.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/luk-clutch-do-not-come-preset-come-inside-860524/

Also, the dealer normally unbolts the slave cylinder from the transmission without opening the hydraulic clutch system. Did your mechanic open up the system?

If so, I would recommend fully flushing (if the fluid is over 3 years old) and bleeding the system.

 

I do not know at the moment if he had the hydraulics opened or not. Bleeding on the slave cylinder should do the job, wouldn't it? It's not much different from the brakes bleeding.

Speaking of pre-setting the clutch pressure plate, I suppose the job can be done with a press (http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng86.shtml), not necessarily hydraulic.

Will the clutch re-set to worn position after the installation, if, say, you did not follow the instructions (i.e. you did not align the flywheel and pressure plate on the white marking)?

I have browsed tens of messages on a similar problem for different cars since yesterday, seems that even tightening the bolts on pressure plate not by the spec can result in the problem.

 

I also wonder, is the installed without special tools the pressure plate gets permanently damaged, as factory service manual suggests, or it can be 'press-reset' and re-installed? Has anyone done that?

It will be a bummer (assuming it's the set-to-worn pressure plate to blame) to re-set it, re-install everything back, and find out nothing helped.

 

Update:
The mechanic took everything apart again and said that the pressure plate was defective (some fingers sat lower than the others).

I purchased a new LUK clutch set from partsgeek, $100 less, but exactly the same as I did from a dealer, the clutch release bearing included ( $67 extra from a dealer), and the 'special tool' (the piece with the splines) included. He put all in, now the clutch is perfectly fine.

My $270 loss on a dealer's clutch unless I am able to exercise a warranty.

 

Were the defective fingers on the pressure plate not noticeable before the first installation?

Has your mechanic replaced a Honda/Acura self-adjusting clutch before?

 

I saw the first clutch before the installation, and I saw it after the installation, as well as I saw the second one before the installation. Couple of fingers were a bit low, but for me it seemed the same on the second clutch.

The bottom line - he does not have a good idea 'why', but that's his best guess.

The clutch itself self-adjusted correctly - I visually compared the springs compression on the first one after the removal with the second one before the installation. They were nearly at the same compression level.

He is replacing lots of SAC clutches on BMW and Audi; he is doing quite a lot of work Hondas (he is a professional mechanic at the shop). I do not know though if he ever replaced SAC on Honda/Acura specifically.