I'm hoping some of the brains on this forum can help me figure this out.

I tried to start my car this evening and it would not start. I turned the ignition and all the lights and electronics were fine, but there wasn't a click or anything in terms of the car starting. It's not a battery issue because all other electronics, including headlights, work fine and a jump has no impact.

I had a similar issue about a month ago. This was the day after I replaced my air filter. It's kind of a long story, but when I was changing the filter a screw fell down into the engine. Being the perfectionist I am, I was determined to get the screw back and I had to take out the battery and the air filter housing to get to the screw. Well it was a real PITA taking all that stuff apart and putting it back together because everything is so tight, but I was able to do it. Everything was fine at that point. I started the car no problem several times until the next afternoon when I turned the key and it didn't start. All of the electrical stuff worked, but the car just didn't start. It didn't even make a noise. I then tried a couple more times and it started right up. I thought it was awfully coincidental that in 100k miles the first time I ever had a problem starting it was the day after I had torn that stuff apart and put it back together. Had I inadvertantly loosened a wire somewhere when I was messing around in there?

Well, a month has now passed and I have started the car without incident dozens if not hundreds of times. Then, tonight out of the blue, nothing. Again, I am certain it is not a battery issue.

Any ideas what could be going on?

Thanks in advance.

Kevin

 

It has to be starter-related. I have no clue where the starter is in our cars, but I'd imagine it's in the vicinity of the bell housing just below the area that your screw fell.

 

Ignition transmitter chip or ignition module?
IIRC, there were a couple of other threads in the past year or so with similar intermittent no-start problems, resolved by dealer service replacement of the ignition part.

 

Thanks for the replies. I spent some time today trying to diagnose and believe the problem is that no juice is getting to the solenoid or starter. Of course, I have no idea why not. I have confronted the fact that I have to have it towed to the dealer. I'll post the diagnosis when I have it.

 

Well, I had the car towed to the nearest Honda dealership. They said I need a starter motor, with the cost of the part being $600 and labor being $300

 

Ouch! Hope that corrects the problem. Not covered under warranty?

 

$900 to replace a starter?

 

900??!

 

This same thing just happend to me! About two months ago it didn't turn on for about 10 minutes then it suddenly worked. And now it is doing the same thing only for the past 12 hours. All the electronics work fine and the battery is totally full. Praying its not the starter and this all is similar by fluke!

 

you might also want to check these items under the recalls and make sure its not the issue.
http://www.autobuyguide.com/2005/12-...lls/index.html

 

your local honda dealership is helping you with your acura? wtf my local dealership referred me to the acura dealership in OKC....grr

 

This just happened to me this morning too!! I have 07 Type S though. All the lights and radio all work. When I try to turn it on, it just does this flicker thing. I didn't think it was the battery either because this car is only 2 years old. So this isn't covered under warranty?

 

is there anything you can do to check the condition of the starter and or other parts dealing with this delimma?? just wanna see if i can dodge the bullet and replace it before it dies

 

i have the SAME problem. ugh. money pit

 

any luck?

 

bump

 

Hey all I have a 05 acura tl with 144k regular maintenance timing belt water pump suspension air and cabin filters changed. Today I drove the car about 8 miles then drove it back never had a problem before. 2 hours later I go out to start the car and nothing only a click from the starter but my lights radio everything works. It's not the immobilizer because it's not showing the key symbol my keyless entry works. I cleaned the battery terminals tightened them up. It has the factory starter on it. Also I hit a mud puddle I suppose because there's a lot of dried brown stuff on the top of my engine. What are the chances it's the pcm vs the starter also the battery is showing 12.8 amps please help I'm dead in the water right now.

 

Probably just a dead battery-- esp. if the battery is OEM or more than 4 years old.

Get a jump-- if your car starts, it's the battery.

If the battery is new, then you may have a bad HFL/Bluetooth unit draining the battery when the car is off.

G/L, and welcome to AZ.

 

It's most likely your starter if you hear just a click. I had my starter died on my 2 weeks ago. Same symptom with just a click. I also have a 2005 TL with 197k(KM). I went to a Honda dealer and purchased a new starter for $350 (I know rip off), but hey if it last me 10 years, then it's well worth it.

 

honda/acaira starters are EASY to replace they are on top front of the automatic transmission. to see if it is your starter, tap it with a hammer, if car starts, that's your problem. You can also buy a rebuild kit and do it yourself... the starter motor it's self typically does not go bad. It's the bendex that quits working.

disconnect and remove battery
Remove air intake
then you should have plenty of room to get the starter out.

DO NOT USE CHEAP AUTO STORE STARTERS. BUY OEM ONLY. That stuff that gets sold at auto stores will not last...

 

It was a simple fix. I thought is was the battery and I thought it was the starter and it wasn't. It was a wire loose in the fuse box. That's it simple fix

 

I have had similar problem. The car does not start, however, lights radio etc. work just fine. It happened about a month ago and I actually put it in neutral and rolled it in my driveway to get it out of the way of my other car so I could get it out. Figured I would try one more time to see if it would start before I unloaded and loaded the other car and it cranked right up. Worked fine for several weeks.

A couple of days ago, same thing, would not crank. I put it in neutral and rolled it about 2 feet, and it cranked right up. Could it be the transmission not fully engaging in park? Computer not recognizing it is in park? Very strange.

Any ideas?

 

It sounds like a bad starter.

If you don't replace it in the next couple of weeks, hit the starter with a tire iron the next time it happens. If the car then starts, it's the starter.

 

Agree with Will -

 

I was thinking the park sensor as well...were you starting it in neutral or placing it back into park after moving it? Next time it happens, see if you can start it in neutral without moving it.

 

Thanks for all the responses...

I did try putting it in neutral and cranking it without moving it the first time, and nothing. The second time I put it into park.

The next time it happens, I will attack as follows:

I will hit the starter before doing anything else to see it a little pop might do the trick, thus proving it is the starter.

If that does not work, I will...

1. Shift it from park to drive and back to park and crank it
2. Put it in neutral and crank it
3. Roll it in neutral and crank it in neutral
4. Put it back into park and crank it.

I will report back as to what works/doesn't work

 

The hitting the starter with a hammer/tire iron/fist/whatever is not as reliable as most say. It should be used as a last ditch effort to get you back home and start the car as it works 60% of the time, every time. I would not count on it as a way to prove your starter is good or bad.

 

I would definitely not use it to prove your starter is good (lol), but it's most often a very good indication your starter is bad.

The knock moves the brushes ever so slightly so they make contact and then the starter works. It's a sign the brushes are worn and need to be replaced, whether you rebuilt the starter or replace it completely.

 

I agree with your first statement, but no so much your second. However it is all part of the diagnosis process.

 

Just wanted to clarify for folks that hitting it with anything does not fix the problem nor is it a sure way to identify its the problem. ( if it doesn't start after hitting it ) It might start the car once, 10 times, or not at all. Take my brother's jeep as an example, it wouldn't turn over, we beat the crap out of his starter and it still would not start. Once I replaced the starter... she fired right up. In this example if I used the tap method as diagnosis, that tells me to look elsewhere for the issue when the starter was the problem. Again, the method does sometimes work... whack away boys.

 

That's a better explanation. Like I said, tapping it and then the car starting definitely doesn't mean it's good and as you said tapping it and the car NOT starting also doesn't mean it's good.

 

Just a quick follow up...

It was the starter. finally would not crank, so I hit is with baseball bat from the top between the battery and the engine, got it started and got it replaced. Only cost me $270 for a new one which was a good deal since I called around and got quotes from $450 and up!!!

Thanks for all the help!!!

P.S.- Just hit 100,000 miles on Tuesday. Not bad for a 10-1/2 year old car.

 

I've been having a problem with my 05 TL where I go to start the car and sometimes it will start and sometimes it wont. When it doesn't start I keep turning the ignition and I hear this buzzing sound coming from underneath the steering wheel. At first I thought it was the starter, so I replaced it and even with the brand new starter it still didn't start and both starters were fully functional. Has anyone else had this problem or have an idea of what it could be since it isnt the starter?

 

Any of you wizards consider the + battery cable? Same exact thing happened to me a year ago whereby I had full power to everything except the starter. Turned out, after 12 years and 200K miles the battery cable had rotted out.
.
.

 

Or a bad battery? Mine couldn't hold the charge last week.

 

Could also be your flux capacitor, may need to be replaced. Its a pain though!

 

jus wanted to add my 2 cents same symptoms and my so far diagnosis ..

2004 118k AT..... So was swapping out power-steering tank and 2 o-ring fix. When come to sucking out old fluid I went to start the car... all lights come on dome dash etc... but no turn over.. just a Lil click under hood.

So checked all usual suspect fuses, and tested for current... all good! Battery took in to test.. perfect! but asked for a Lil charge anyway .. I don't have any HFL problems, alternator has less than 60k miles. Saw that condition of starter was not so good... corrosion and what not. So went and purchased OEM + and - new cables and an OEM refurbished starter just in case.

I was hoping to not need starter.. reading most threads blaming + cable the culprit. So I installed new - cable and started testing current.. A buddy helped with reverse hooking up of the starter to confirm it works and it does just fine.. The car started no problem.. tested the ignition switch.. no problem.. and checked and changed the relay cutoff by foot panel fuse box.

But where I'm stuck is.. when you test the flow from the "black n white" little clip on wire going to the starter.. no juice... meaning current ya know 12v stuff lol... NADA... any ideas? I think I should just try installing new + cable.. but that doesn't have a new Lil black/white wire...It only connects to the fuse box under hood and to starter.

My buddy thinks that even though the ignition switch tested OK.. that it still may be the culprit. I don't know... So in close I tested everything I have read up on to test my problem is the black/white wire clip to the starter has no current from ignition.

Any chime ins... that's when people responds with their own suggestions and ideas lol... would be appreciated