lg8215

Hello,

I destroyed my 6mt. Does anyone know what year manual transmissions will fit? It's a 2004. I can't seem to find any near me that will work. I don't care what car or year it comes out of just need to know what will fit.

THanks in advace everyone!

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

According to the part number '04-'06
ACURA TL TRANSMISSION ASSY.
Part# 20011-RDE-C62 Manufacturer : Acura
Warranty by : Honda Motor Co.
Fits Years: '04 - '06 Our Price: $3823.67
Fits Models: TL 4DR SPORT, TL 4DR SPORT NAVI/SUMMERTIRE, TL 4DR SPORT NAVIGATION, TL 4DR SPORT SUMMER TIRE

SouthernBoy

May I ask, how did you manage to do this?

DMZ

So we can help you can destroy another one? How the hell do you drive?

No doubt you're in grave need of a new clutch too.
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lg8215

Thanks for the info. everyone. I went ahead and bought a 2005 6mt. It looks exactly the same as mines. The junkyard I bought it from said the gearing was different that's the only difference. I honestly don't care as long as it works. I'll make sure to update after I install it to see if there are any issues.

To answer your question no I don't want to destroy another one. That thing is expensive $1300 used! I got lucky to even find one in my state. The 6mt is very rare.

I actually have 187k miles. I had a job that required me to drive 60k miles per year so I loaded my TL with mileage. I've had a lot of cars and I'm very good on maintenance and keep up with everything so I made sure the TL stayed running like a top. Now I do drive like a bat out of hell. I constantly power shift and take it to the track sometimes. I had NO problems driving it like this until about 160k I got the annoying 3rd gear grind that these cars are infamous for. Then at 183k my original clutch finally went out. I changed it myself. Car drove good until 187k. I was actually not dogging on it when it broke. I just did a simple 1st to 2nd shift and I heard gears grinding everywhere now even in neutral there are jingling noises in the tranny and 2nd 3rd and 4th are dead.

SouthernBoy

First off, there is no difference in the gear ratios between an '04 and an '04 manual TL. Secondly, are you sure you were powershifting? Or was it speed shifting? There is a huge difference between these two modes of shifting a manual transmission.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Just thought I'd change the year. Actually all the 6MT's have the same ratios. A/T's are different though, trans and final drive.

SouthernBoy

Yes, absolutely. There is quite a significant difference between the gear ratios, and the overall final drive ratio, between the manual and the automatic, which in all cases favors the manual. While the automatic has a huge difference in the final drive ratio, in that it is much lower than that of the manual (auto = 4.43:1 vs manual = 3.29:1), the transmission gear ratios make up for this disparity so that the manual overall final drive ratio is lower in all forward gears.

This is why the manual has better throttle response and is quicker than the automatic even before allowing for the greater percentage of parasitic losses with the automatic.

I hate cars

If I had to say something good about the auto, it would be the taller top gear ratio. Still no idea why they did not do a close ratio 4 speed with 5th as the only OD.

VQPower37

southernboy can you please explain the difference between powershifting and speedshifting?

I hate cars

Speed shifting is just what it says, shifting fast.

Powershifting is not letting off the throttle between shifts.

There are some scenarios and some transmissions where it's acceptable. The TL is not one of them.

VQPower37

so speed shifting cant really be bad for the tranny can it? i can see powershifting being pretty abusive to the transmission though

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, what I was referring to was that all 6MT's have the same ratios, but the '04/'06 A/T is different from the '07-'08, both trans gears and final drive ratio.

lg8215

I was powershifting. I've been dragracing different cars for years and know how to do it properly. I know the TL is no race car but it handled me consistently powershifting for years and thousands of miles.

Also, my transmission did not break while powershifting it broke on a simple 1st to 2nd shift at 187k miles. I'm sure my powershifting didn't help but honestly how much longer do I expect it to last? I rather replace a tranny every 187k and have fun doing it than to have a tranny last 250k and be bored then entire time.

SouthernBoy

I should think you were fortunate that your transmission didn't let go much sooner.. along with the clutch, half shafts, and CV joints. I used to do a fair amount of drag racing myself with my street machine (1966 396/360 Chevelle SS), and even with that car, which was significantly stronger than a TL, I speed shifted. I was always worried that I might lunch the tranny if I power shifted and then there goes my daily ride. I could speed shift quite fast and only lost one race - to another '66 396 Chevelle no less.

In your particular case, as in anyone else's, it's all a matter of personal choices and priorities. If you're of a mind to do as you have reported and are willing to accept the cost, that is certainly your prerogative and no one's concern but yours. However, for others who might not know of the finer points of speed shifting and power shifting, I highly suggest avoiding both if they want to keep their TL healthy.

Just out of curiosity, let me ask you a question. I suspect when you power shift, you carry your engine up pretty close to the rev limiter because you know the engine is not going to spin any higher than that. This gives you the luxury of keeping your RPMs from going too high between shifts and also lessens the shock to your drive train. Is this the method you practice? Of course, this is going to take you beyond your torque peak for your next gear, but that's not so bad with a smaller lower torque engine like ours. You would still be building horsepower.

lg8215

You're definitively right on that note. I don't encourage anyone to powershift or speed shift. Specially anyone that's scared to get their hands dirty once things start to break (which there are higher chances that they will).

396 chevelle ss! that must have been some beauty! I started with v8's as well but have moved on to turbo honda's and now I also have an STI which is really fun to drive I enjoy seeing a tiny 4cylinder push 500hp. To answer your question yea I take it right up to the rev limiter but shift so fast that I never hit it (even between shifts). If you powershift it's gotta be very fast and very hard you can't granny shift it or it will cause you to miss a gear that kinda thing.

SouthernBoy

It was a beauty. Madeira Maroon exterior with a black vinyl top and black interior. I still have the original order form! I ordered the close ratio Muncie 4-speed (M21) and 3.73's out back. A little known option was sintered metallic brake linings for $36.90 as I recall - I order those. Obviously there were other options I order for this car, but no A/C, no power brakes, and no power steering.

Here's a link to a '66 Chevelle with an interior and engine bay identical to mine. I had the 360HP L34 engine also, which came with a 660CFM Holley and 4-bolt mains, plus the 427/390 cam. I later added some bolt-ons to up the HP to around 410 and the torque to approximately 440 ft/lbs. I elected to keep the factory Inland Steel shifter as I like it much better that the Hurst Comp-4 that a lot of guys were using. I could throw faster shifts with the stock unit.

http://mysterychevelle.homestead.com/

DMZ

I rest my case..............

These cars were not designed for the track. Treat your new transmission with respect so you won't have to go through this again. And this time, use the GM fluid.

Good luck.............
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lg8215

lol. I did have the gm synchromesh. The track did not break it. It was a simple 1st to 2nd standard shift. It was raining, I would not be driving aggressively. It's been at least 8 moths since I've gone to the track.

lg8215

What a beauty! I can imagine that baby with a 200 shot and some slicks. What was your 1/4 mile time with it?

I hate cars

That's awesome!

I got to ride in an all original 396 4 speed on replica tires. All stock but it spun 1st, 2nd, and a chirp in 3rd. It probably ran in the 14s but on those replica tires it was a handfull. The really neat thing was seeing what one of those cars felt like from the factory. These days everything that old has been modified so it was a real treat to ride in a stock one.

The Tl's drivetrain might as well be made of glass compared to American muscle, especially the older overbuilt stuff. Powershifting always claimed drivetrain parts even on the older stuff, it's going to claim even more on the TL. The only thing it has going for it is FWD and no traction.

SouthernBoy

I never ran my Chevelle on the track... truth be known, it saw a lot of street racing. When it was box stock, except for street slicks and the requisite carburetor and ignition tune, I ran another '66 Chevelle which six days prior had turned a 13.3 at Aquasco Speedway in Maryland. I beat him all three times, so based upon that, I figured the car was good for 13.2's in that state.

A few years later, I added a set of Hooker Headers (already had straight thru exhaust). This increased my intake manifold vacuum from a stock 21 inches at idle to 23 inches and by 4000 RPM, the engine was starving for air. The 396 Chevelle (notice in the pictures) had a "log" style exhaust manifold which was very restrictive. Not good for a semi-hemi engine and the headers really opened things up but needed a higher flow carburetor to feed them. And yes, I had wired the heat riser open and was running a 160 degree thermostat with a seven blade Corvette fan.

Enter the famous Holley R3310 780CFM dual feed with center pivot floats. Problem solved and I was at 20 inches of manifold vacuum at idle. This setup made the engine come alive and the felt difference was quite noticeable. I estimated it would have been good for 12.8's in the quarter based upon what the car was capable of when stock.

The Holley carb tune of which I spoke? This involved mostly eliminating the vacuum operated secondaries so that they would open when needed. A small bolt placed in the secondary throttle arm plus opening up the vacuum diaphragm with tiny washers and cutting about a link and a half from the diaphragm spring would force the secondaries to open immediately at sudden and full throttle. Now with this taking place, the Delco distributor needed attention. Lighter advance weight springs and/or heavier advance weights, or just removing one of the springs was the general backyard mechanic fix along with setting the initial timing higher. These little tuneup tricks along were good for between 1/4 to 1/3 of a second - according to Hot Rod Magazine.

SouthernBoy

Tires were the big restriction on these supercars. In '66, GM went with 7.75 x 14 tires which had a 5 1/2" wide footprint. Hardly enough to contain 420 lb/ft of torque. I never powershifted (well once just to see how my car handled it). I had a friend (he was the president of the car club I was in) who had a 1965 Chevelle Malibu SS with the L79 327/350 engine. He powershift quite a bit and once when it was on a lift, I was checking it out and called Ronnie over to take a look at the rear of his drive shaft. About 8-10 inches of it looked like it had been turned on a lathe because the drive shaft tunnel was slamming down on it. Since it was rather close to the U-joints, I expected if he continued doing this without replacing his shocks, he was going to break those.

I remember there was a guy who lived close to me who had his Muncie apart on his work bench. He was removing every other synchronizer tooth. I asked him why and he said for bang shifting. What this did was to decrease the change of hung shifts by the blocker rings.

Bang shifting = Like powershifting except you don't use your clutch.