'07 TL Won't Start or Shift From Park

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Old 12-11-2010, 12:40 PM
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'07 TL Won't Start or Shift From Park

Sigh...just when everything was going smoothly, my 2007 TL won't start or shift from park.

It's not the battery, all the lights are good to go & radio is blasting.

Whenever I turn the key it just makes the "wu-wump wu-wump wu-wump" noise over and over.

It won't let me shift from park, no power steering, and brakes are very firm (I do hear the click of the relay in the brake switch though).

Any clue? AAA is on the way, but I figured it always helps to know a little bit about what it could be.
Old 12-11-2010, 01:29 PM
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Battery.

Powersteering works off of the acccessory belt and brakes work off of engine vacuum so if the engine is not running neither will work.

Do you have the key on and hitting the brake when you try and shift from park? You have to have the key all the way on and the brakes pushed. You might not be able to push the brake pedal far enough to trigger the unlock with the engine off.

You can pop the little rectangle clip from the shifter trim and insert your key to override the shift interlock if you need to shift it.

The lights and radio will still work long after the battery is too dead to turn the engine over. You should be good to go with a jump.
Old 12-11-2010, 01:38 PM
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Battery man just came out, said it wasn't the battery.

He says it sounds like it's not getting any fuel...

Any way to troubleshoot this? I decided not to have it towed until Monday, doesn't do any good just sitting at the mechanics if they are closed.
Old 12-11-2010, 01:42 PM
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I would start checking fuses.

When you turn the key on, can you hear the fuel pump come on for a second or two?

An easy way to see if it's fuel or not is to pull the air hose going to the throttlebody and spray a flammable fluid in there like carb cleaner, starting fluid, etc while someone tries to start it. If it starts it's a fuel issue. Just don't do this for long or use too much starting fluid. Just enough to see if it tries to start and then stop and stand back in case it back fires through the intake.

How did this happen, were you driving and it died or did you go to start it and it wouldn't start.

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key on?
Old 12-11-2010, 01:44 PM
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It drove fine last night, just got the Type S suspension put on.

Woke up this morning went out to start it and wouldn't start.

I'll go check for the fuel pump/fuses.

The Check Engine light some come on when I turn the key on.
Old 12-11-2010, 02:12 PM
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Car didn't come with the owner's manual either. Someone should start a 24-hr auto shop
Old 12-11-2010, 02:15 PM
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is the immobilizer indicator on its the green key that flashs and gos off, if it is staying on you will have to take it to the dealer and get the key reprogramed....
Old 12-11-2010, 02:16 PM
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Can you hear the fuel pump come on when you turn the key?

It won't come on every time once it's build pressure. If you're unsure, let it sit for 30 minutes and then try. You should hear the electric pump toward the rear of the car.
Old 12-11-2010, 02:24 PM
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I owe you guys a beer or a case.

Still not fixed yet, it's raining pretty hard so I'm not sure if the fuel pump is coming on or not yet.

I tried to look at the fuse diagram, but couldn't decipher which one was for the fuel pump. I've got to wait for a few friends to get here so I can push it in the garage.

I tried with two different keys, and still a no go. Unless it's the entire immobilizer system that is shot. Who knows?

I'll keep you posted. Taking Ihatecars advice and letting it sit for half an hour, testing it again, going to get some starting fluid and see if that does the job.
Old 12-11-2010, 02:34 PM
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if the green key immobilizer indicator on the gauge cluster is staying on or just stays flashing when you turn the key on thats going it..
Old 12-11-2010, 02:40 PM
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Immobilizer key keeps flashing while engine is cranking...
Old 12-11-2010, 03:04 PM
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You need to take the car and all key to the dealer and have them reprogram the keys I AM 99% SURE THATS YOUR PROBLUM
Old 12-11-2010, 03:09 PM
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Could it be the immobilizer fuse? If so, which one is that?
Old 12-11-2010, 03:14 PM
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I am at work right now and every tech here says program your keys!!!
Old 12-11-2010, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by AaronChiles
Could it be the immobilizer fuse? If so, which one is that?
No fuse for that if the light is flashing. If both keys don't work, you need to find out why it lost the program once you get it fixed so it won't happen again.

Great idea Lowlow.
Old 12-11-2010, 03:32 PM
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Just my luck :P Called the dealer, no openings until Tuesday.

Thanks for all the help, if you're ever in NC I'll buy you a beer.
Old 12-11-2010, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by AaronChiles

Whenever I turn the key it just makes the "wu-wump wu-wump wu-wump" noise over and over.
That sounds like poor cranking power...
While the battery itself might be good...what about the G1 ground to the chassis? look for oxidation. As far as fuses go..losing any of the fuses to either the immobilizer receiver, or controller, you would lose power to other things, since they share circuits/fuses with other stuff.

If you've lost power to anything else, then let us know...I mean to anything, on the dashboard, even clock/displays/hvac etc.

Do all the lights on the cluster come on with ignition? the batt light/cel/ I mean everything.

Check out fuse #8 under hood, just to rule it out.

Last edited by Opel; 12-11-2010 at 03:47 PM.
Old 12-11-2010, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Opel
That sounds like poor cranking power...
While the battery itself might be good...what about the G1 ground to the chassis? look for oxidation. As far as fuses go..losing any of the fuses to either the immobilizer receiver, or controller, you would lose power to other things, since they share circuits/fuses with other stuff.

If you've lost power to anything else, then let us know...I mean to anything, on the dashboard, even clock/displays/hvac etc.

I'm not convinced your battery/connections are good.
That's what I thought too but he said the "battery guy" said it was ok. I assume he thoroughly tested it out but maybe not.
Old 12-11-2010, 03:44 PM
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No power loss to anything else, but I've been cranking it all day so I think I may have drained the battery.

I'll clean the battery connections and give it another go. Where is the G1?
Old 12-11-2010, 03:45 PM
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Battery guy didn't even hook anything up, just heard the noise and said it sounded like it wasn't getting fuel. I guess I should go buy one of those battery jumpers.
Old 12-11-2010, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
That's what I thought too but he said the "battery guy" said it was ok. I assume he thoroughly tested it out but maybe not.
I saw where he said that, and this below is why I always have doubts lol

Originally Posted by AaronChiles
Battery guy didn't even hook anything up, just heard the noise and said it sounded like it wasn't getting fuel. I guess I should go buy one of those battery jumpers.
And there's no specific sound while cranking that indicates lack of fuel. That's why he's a battery guy
Old 12-11-2010, 03:53 PM
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I have been working for an acura dealer for over 6 years and if your green key light is flashing and the car wont start then your keys are not programmed to the immobilizer.....if key light is flashing the car will not start no matter what you try.....trust me
Old 12-11-2010, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by LowLow06TLNH6
I have been working for an acura dealer for over 6 years and if your green key light is flashing and the car wont start then your keys are not programmed to the immobilizer.....if key light is flashing the car will not start no matter what you try.....trust me
What causes the immobilizer to no longer recognize two keys? Is it just a random thing that happens or are the chances of it happening again pretty good?
Old 12-11-2010, 04:00 PM
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I read on some other random post that maybe the bad key caused the immobilizer unit to go bad...just a thought?
Old 12-11-2010, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by AaronChiles
No power loss to anything else, but I've been cranking it all day so I think I may have drained the battery.

I'll clean the battery connections and give it another go. Where is the G1?
G1 is the negative cable where it attaches to the chassis from the battery.

There's also a few fuses to check...I asked if anything else had power loss because the immobilizer control unit and receiver share fuses with other equipment. Like if the receiver fuse blew out, you cant unlock/lock doors with your remote. Losing the fuse to the Immobilizer control unit, you would lose power to half your dash, audio and hvac displays, and a bunch of other stuff.

I know you said while cranking the key indicator flashes. But what happens when you only turn the ignition on? The key indicator should shut off after a sec or 2, so does that happen? Is the CEL on when ignition is on? Is the battery light on when ignition is on?

There's a quiet a few electrical feeds to the ECU, so instead of telling you specifically what fuses to check for..I would check every single fuse, under the hood and under the dash, to make sure you cover ignition relay fuses as well. It takes about 10 mins and it's free.

Loss of power to ECM means that the immobilizer doesn't do what it's supposed to do, and that's why I ask you to check everything. They all communicate together.
Old 12-11-2010, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by AaronChiles
I read on some other random post that maybe the bad key caused the immobilizer unit to go bad...just a thought?
It's a transmitted signal from the key. The immobilizer either recognizes it, or it doesn't. That's like saying, point the wrong remote at your tv and hitting a button would cause the tv to go bad. But again, I could be wrong. Let the acura tech answer this.
Old 12-11-2010, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by i hate cars
what causes the immobilizer to no longer recognize two keys? Is it just a random thing that happens or are the chances of it happening again pretty good?
well the chances of it happening again are very slim but indeed possible. Low voltage from the battery may have been the cause but without the car in front of me this is a very difficult situation to diagnos. The only fact i can offer is that with the key light flashing it means that the immobilizer does not recognize the keys which means they need to be programmed
Old 12-11-2010, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by LowLow06TLNH6
I have been working for an acura dealer for over 6 years and if your green key light is flashing and the car wont start then your keys are not programmed to the immobilizer.....if key light is flashing the car will not start no matter what you try.....trust me
Agreed. If light is flashing, car will not start. There's a few reasons why the light will flash, other than just immobilizer not recognizing keys.
Btw, what do you do at acura?

Losing power to the ECM would cause these symptoms with the key indicator light.

and like IHC said, is it that likely to lose programming of both keys (3 with valet)?
Old 12-11-2010, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Opel
Agreed. If light is flashing, car will not start. There's a few reasons why the light will flash, other than just immobilizer not recognizing keys.
Btw, what do you do at acura?

Losing power to the ECM would cause these symptoms with the key indicator light.

and like IHC said, is it that likely to lose programming of both keys (3 with valet)?
AS A MATTER OF FACT I AM A TECHNICIAN.

Service Bulletin
©
2008 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved BTB 25071-38725 (0802) 1 of 7
CLIENT INFORMATION:
The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment, and
training to correctly and safely maintain your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers,” and you should not assume this
bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an authorized
Acura automobile dealer.

February 21, 2008
03-012
Applies To:
2004–08 TL – ALL

2004–08 TSX
– ALL

Immobilizer System (Type 4)
(Supersedes 03-012, dated June 27, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars.)
All of the vehicles affected have a Type 4 immobilizer
system that disables the vehicle unless a programmed
ignition key is used. The Type 4 system is different
than previous systems in that the transponder ID code
in the key is a rolling-type code instead of a set code. In
this service bulletin, a programmed ignition key refers
to a rolling code transponder-type key that has been
cut to fit the ignition switch and whose transponder ID
code is recognized by the immobilizer system. If you try
to start the engine without a programmed ignition key,
the starter turns the engine, but the engine does not
start.
This service bulletin covers these subjects:
• Immobilizer system components
• Adding or replacing programmed ignition keys
• Clearing transponder codes of lost programmed
ignition keys
• Starting the engine without a programmed ignition
key
• Replacing the immobilizer control unit-receiver
• Replacing the ECM/PCM
It also has a client situation and required items chart.
For more information on the immobilizer system refer
to the Body Electrical section of the appropriate service
manual.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None. This service bulletin is for information only.
IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM COMPONENTS
The immobilizer system includes these components:
• Immobilizer system keys (two master keys and one
valet key at new vehicle delivery)
• Immobilizer system indicator
• Immobilizer control unit-receiver
• ECM/PCM
Immobilizer System Keys
Vehicles come with two master keys (black grip) and
one valet key (light gray grip).
Each key (master or valet) has electronic circuits in its
grip that output a rolling-type code (set by the
immobilizer control unit-receiver) when you insert the
key into the ignition switch. The immobilizer system
uses this code to determine whether to start the
engine. There are no batteries or other serviceable
parts inside the keys.
NOTE: The 2007-08 TL has a sidewinder-type key. On
these models, use the Tri-Code H.S. key code cutter.
Some master keys have a battery-operated remote
transmitter built into the grip that lets you lock and
unlock the vehicle. The keys without remote
transmitters contain no batteries or other serviceable
parts.
Because of the rolling code characteristics of the Type
4 immobilizer system, you cannot use the Ilco
Immobilizer Key Code Duplicator or Ilco programmable
(T5) key blanks with this system.
Immobilizer System Indicator
The immobilizer indicator is on the instrument panel.
When you insert a programmed ignition key (master or
valet) into the ignition switch and turn the switch to ON
(II), the indicator comes on for
2 seconds and then
goes off.

MASTER KEY
(BLACK)
VALET KEY
(LIGHT GRAY) 2007-08 TL
MASTER KEY
2 of 7
03-012

When you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), the
indicator blinks for
5 seconds and then goes off.
If a nonprogrammed ignition key is inserted into the
ignition switch, the indicator comes on for
2 seconds

when you turn the switch to ON (II) and
then starts to
blink
. The indicator keeps blinking until you turn the
switch to LOCK (0) and remove the key. If you try to
start the engine with a non-programmed ignition key,
the engine cranks, but it does not start.

Immobilizer Control Unit-Receiver
The immobilizer control unit-receiver is inside the bezel
around the ignition switch. It uses electromagnetic
induction to energize the electronic circuits in the key.
There is no direct electrical connection. Once the
electronic circuits are energized, the key sends its ID
code to the immobilizer control unit-receiver, which
checks the code against the codes stored in its
memory. If the codes match, the immobilizer control
unit-receiver sends a unique serial code to the ECM/
PCM. But if the transponder ID code does not match,
no serial code is sent.
ECM/PCM
The ECM/PCM is an integral part of the immobilizer
system. When the ECM/PCM receives the unique
serial code from the immobilizer control unit-receiver, it
communicates with the immobilizer control unitreceiver
by sending back its own unique serial code. If
the serial codes are mutually recognized during this
communication process, the ECM/PCM energizes the
fuel supply system and the ignition system so the
engine can start.
ADDING OR REPLACING PROGRAMMED IGNITION
KEYS
Vehicles come with three programmed ignition keys.
The immobilizer control unit-receiver accepts a total of
six transponder codes, so three more codes can be
stored in its memory. Use the following procedures to
add a key, to add multiple keys, or to replace all keys.
Adding a Key
Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) with Acura
key blanks to add a key. The HDS rewrites the
immobilizer control unit-receiver, storing the
transponder code of the new key in the immobilizer
control unit-receiver’s memory.
Preparation
NOTE: Refer to the parts catalog for the P/Ns, and
search by VIN for the correct blanks.
To add a key with the HDS, you need these items:
• Immobilizer master key blank
or
Immobilizer and transmitter master key blank
or
Immobilizer valet key blank
One programmed ignition key (master or valet) for
the vehicle
• Vehicle’s key code for cutting new ignition keys
• Suitable key cutter
• HDS with the latest software
NOTE: Make sure the market, the date, and the time
on the HDS setup screen are correct. Select the
F12

key in the upper right corner to get the
Set-up
Details
screen. Make sure Market: is set to USA.
Select the time display in the lower right corner to get
the
Date/Time Properties pop-up window. Make
sure the date and time are correct. For details, refer
to the
Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) Setup
Instructions
listed under Tool Information in ISIS.
• 1st Password (Get this five-character code from the

i
N Immobilizer Code Inquiry.)

Procedure
1. Use an appropriate key blank and a suitable key
code cutter to cut a new ignition key (see
S/B 99-010,
Cutting Keys With the Exacta Key
Code Cutter,
or the Tri-Code H.S. operating
manual for the 2007-08 TL).
2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (data link connector).

IMMOBILIZER
SYSTEM
INDICATOR
(TSX shown)
IGNITION SWITCH
IMMOBILIZER CONTROL UNIT - RECEIVER
(TSX shown)
03-012
3 of 7

3. Insert a programmed ignition key into the ignition
switch, and turn the switch to ON (II). Turn on the
HDS.
4. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the
odometer reading, then verify the correct date and
time.
5. From the
System Selection Menu screen, select

IMMOBI
.
6. From the
Mode Menu screen, select Immobilizer
Setup
.
7. From the
Immobilizer Test Mode Menu screen,
select
Add and Delete Keys.
8. From the
Add and Delete Keys screen, select Add
1 Key
.
9. From the
Add 1 Key screen, select Begin to add 1
key
.
10. From the
1st Password screen, enter the 1st
Password, then follow the screen prompts. When
you are finished, turn the ignition switch to LOCK
(0), then turn off and disconnect the HDS.

Adding Multiple Keys
Use the HDS with Acura key blanks to add multiple
keys. The HDS rewrites the immobilizer control unitreceiver,
storing the transponder codes of the new
keys in the immobilizer control unit-receiver’s memory.
Preparation
NOTE: Refer to the parts catalog for the P/Ns, and
search by VIN for the correct blanks.
To add multiple keys with the HDS, you need these
items:
• Immobilizer master key blank
or
Immobilizer valet key blank
All programmed ignition keys for the vehicle
• Vehicle’s key code for cutting new ignition keys
• Suitable key cutter
• HDS with the latest software
NOTE: Make sure the market, the date, and the time
on the HDS setup screen are correct. Select the
F12

key in the upper right corner to get the
Set-up
Details
screen. Make sure Market: is set to USA.
Select the time display in the lower right corner to get
the
Date/Time Properties pop-up window. Make
sure the date and time are correct. For details, refer
to the
Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) Setup
Instructions
listed under Tool Information in ISIS.
• 1st Password (Get this five-character code from the

i
N Immobilizer Code Inquiry.)

Procedure
1. Use appropriate key blanks and a suitable key code
cutter to cut new ignition keys (see S/B 99-010,
Cutting Keys With the Exacta Key Code Cutter
, or
the Tri-Code H.S. operating manual for the 2007-08
TL).
2. Gather up
all of the programmed ignition keys
(master and valet) for the vehicle.
3. Connect the HDS to the DLC (data link connector).
4. Insert a programmed ignition key into the ignition
switch, and turn the switch to ON (II). Turn on the
HDS.
5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the
odometer reading, then verify the correct date and
time.
6. From the
System Selection Menu screen, select

IMMOBI
.
7. From the
Mode Menu screen, select Immobilizer
Setup
.
8. From the
Immobilizer Test Mode Menu screen,
select
Add and Delete Keys.
9. From the
Add and Delete Keys screen, select

Delete or Add Multiple Keys
.
10. From the
Delete or Add Multiple Keys screen,
select
Begin to Delete or Add Multiple Keys.
11. From the
1st Password screen, enter the 1st
Password, then follow the screen prompts. When
you are finished, turn the ignition switch to LOCK
(0), then turn off and disconnect the HDS.

Replacing All Keys
If no programmed ignition keys are available, you need
to replace all of the keys and rewrite the immobilizer
control unit-receiver with the HDS. The HDS clears all
transponder codes from the immobilizer control unitreceiver’s
memory and stores the transponder codes of
the replacement ignition keys.
Preparation
NOTE: Refer to the parts catalog for the P/Ns, and
search by VIN for the correct blanks.
To replace all the keys, you need these items:
• Immobilizer master key blank
or
Immobilizer valet key blank
• Vehicle’s key code for cutting new ignition keys
• Suitable key cutter
• HDS with the latest software
NOTE: Make sure the market, the date, and the time
on the HDS setup screen are correct. Select the
F12

key in the upper right corner to get the
Set-up
Details
screen. Make sure Market: is set to USA.
Select the time display in the lower right corner to get
the
Date/Time Properties pop-up window. Make
sure the date and time are correct.

4 of 7
03-012

For details, refer to the
Honda Diagnostic System
(HDS) Setup Instructions
listed under Tool
Information
in ISIS.
• PCM Code (This four-digit code is available on the
iN
Immobilizer Code Inquiry.)

Procedure
1. Use appropriate key blanks and a suitable key code
cutter to cut the requested number of ignition keys
(see S/B 99-010,
Cutting Keys With the Exacta Key
Code Cutter
, or the Tri-Code H.S. operating
manual for the 2007-08 TL).
2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (data link connector).
3. Insert a newly cut ignition key into the ignition
switch, and turn the switch to ON (II). Turn on the
HDS.
4. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the
odometer reading, then verify the correct date and
time.
5. From the
System Selection Menu screen, select

IMMOBI
.
6. From the
Mode Menu screen, select Immobilizer
Setup
.
7. From the
Immobilizer Test Mode Menu screen,
select
Add and Delete Keys.
8. From the
Add and Delete Keys screen, select All
Keys Lost
.
9. From the
All Keys Lost screen, select Begin to
register keys
.
10. From the
PCM-Code screen, enter the PCM Code,
then follow the screen prompts. When you are
finished, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then
turn off and disconnect the HDS.

CLEARING TRANSPONDER CODES OF LOST
PROGRAMMED IGNITION KEYS
If one or more (but not all) of the programmed ignition
keys are lost, you should rewrite the immobilizer
control unit-receiver with the HDS to prevent the lost
keys from starting the engine. The HDS clears the
transponder codes from the memory of the immobilizer
control unit-receiver, and then stores the transponder
codes of the remaining keys. This process, in effect,
clears the codes of the lost keys so they cannot start
the engine.
Preparation
To clear the transponder codes of lost keys, you need
these items:
All of the remaining programmed ignition keys
(master and valet)
• HDS with the latest software
NOTE: Make sure the market, the date, and the time
on the HDS setup screen are correct. Select the
F12

key in the upper right corner to get the
Set-up
Details
screen. Make sure Market: is set to USA.
Select the time display in the lower right corner to get
the
Date/Time Properties pop-up window. Make
sure the date and time are correct. For details, refer
to the
Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) Setup
Instructions
listed under Tool Information in ISIS.
• 1st Password (Get this five-character code from the

i
N Immobilizer Code Inquiry.)

Procedure
1. Gather up
all of the remaining programmed ignition
keys (master and valet) for the vehicle.
2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (data link connector).
3. Insert a programmed ignition key into the ignition
switch, and turn the switch to ON (II). Turn on the
HDS.
4. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the
odometer reading, then verify the correct date and
time.
5. From the
System Selection Menu screen, select

IMMOBI
.
6. From the
Mode Menu screen, select Immobilizer
Setup
.
7. From the
Immobilizer Test Mode Menu screen,
select
Add and Delete Keys.
8. From the
Add and Delete Keys screen, select

Delete or Add Multiple Keys
.
9. From the
Delete or Add Multiple Keys screen,
select
Begin to Delete or Add Multiple Keys.
10. From the
1st Password screen, enter the 1st
Password, then follow the screen prompts. When
you are finished, turn the ignition switch to LOCK
(0), then turn off and disconnect the HDS.

STARTING THE ENGINE WITHOUT A
PROGRAMMED IGNITION KEY
If your client is stranded because he or she has no
programmed ignition keys, or a part of the immobilizer
system has failed, you can still start the engine using a
properly cut key blank and the five-digit Immobilizer
Brake Code.
This procedure is suited for situations where your
stranded client either plans to drive the vehicle directly
to an Acura dealership for immobilizer system repair, or
he or she has the other programmed ignition keys at
home and plans to drive there with no side trips.
If your client has lost his or her programmed ignition
key but has additional programmed ignition keys at
home, advise him or her to schedule an appointment to
have the immobilizer control unit-receiver rewritten for
the remaining ignition keys; this way the transponder
codes of the lost keys are cleared from the immobilizer
control unit-receiver’s memory. Refer to CLEARING
TRANSPONDER CODES OF LOST PROGRAMMED
IGNITION KEYS.
03-012
5 of 7

If your client has lost
all of the programmed ignition
keys, he or she will need to have them replaced and
have the immobilizer control unit-receiver rewritten.
Refer to Replacing All Keys under ADDING OR
REPLACING PROGRAMMED IGNITION KEYS.

Preparation
To start the engine without a programmed ignition key,
you need these items:
• Acura key blank (Refer to the parts catalog for
P/Ns, and search by VIN.)
• Vehicle’s key code for cutting a new ignition key
• Suitable key cutter
• Immobilizer Brake Code (This five-digit code is
available on the
iN Immobilizer Code Inquiry.)

Procedure
1. Use an Acura key blank and a suitable key code
cutter to cut a temporary ignition key (see
S/B 99-010,
Cutting Keys With the Exacta Key
Code Cutter
, or the Tri-Code H.S. operating
manual for the 2007-08 TL).
2. Release the parking brake.
3. Insert the temporary key into the ignition switch.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Wait for the
brake indicator bulb check to complete.
5. Enter the first digit of the five-digit Immobilizer
Brake Code by setting and releasing the parking
brake that number of times within
30 seconds. For
example, if the first digit is four, set and release the
parking brake four times.
6. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). This enters
the first digit into the ECM/PCM.
7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), set and release
the parking brake the appropriate number of times,
and turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to enter the
second, third, fourth, and fifth digits.
NOTE: When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II),
the immobilizer indicator stays on. The indicator
stays on even when the ignition switch is turned to
LOCK (0).
8. After you enter the fifth digit and turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0), the immobilizer system
indicator blinks three times and then goes off. You
can now start the engine with the temporary key.
NOTE: This procedure is only a temporary fix.
When you start the engine with the temporary key,
the immobilizer indicator comes on and stays on
while the engine is running. And when you turn the
ignition switch to LOCK (0), the indicator does not
blink three times as it normally would.
9. Start the engine within
10 minutes or you must
repeat this procedure entirely.

REPLACING THE IMMOBILIZER CONTROL UNITRECEIVER
If you replace the immobilizer control unit-receiver, you
must rewrite it with the HDS, or the engine cannot start.
Preparation
To replace the immobilizer control unit-receiver, you
need these items:
• Replacement immobilizer control unit-receiver
All of the programmed ignition keys (master and
valet) for the vehicle
• HDS with the latest software
NOTE: Make sure the market, the date, and the time
on the HDS setup screen are correct. Select the
F12

key in the upper right corner to get the
Set-up
Details
screen. Make sure Market: is set to USA.
Select the time display in the lower right corner to get
the
Date/Time Properties pop-up window. Make
sure the date and time are correct. For details, refer
to the
Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) Setup
Instructions
listed under Tool Information in ISIS.
• PCM Code (This four-digit code is available on the
iN
Immobilizer Code Inquiry.)

Procedure
1. Replace the immobilizer-keyless control unit
receiver.
• Follow the procedure in the Body Electrical
section of the appropriate service manual, or
• Online, enter keyword
IMMOBI, and select

Immobilizer-Keyless Control Unit Receiver
Replacement
from the list.
2. Gather up
all of the programmed ignition keys
(master and valet) for the vehicle.
3. Connect the HDS to the DLC (data link connector).
4. Insert a programmed ignition key into the ignition
switch, and turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn
on the HDS.
5. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the
odometer reading, then verify the correct date and
time.
6. From the
System Selection Menu screen, select

IMMOBI
.
7. From the
Mode Menu screen, select Immobilizer
Setup
.
8. From the
Immobilizer Test Mode Menu screen,
select
Replace Immobilizer Receiver/Control
Unit
.
9. From the
Replace Immobilizer Receiver/Control
Unit
screen, select Begin to register Keys in the
new Immobilizer Receiver/Control Unit
.
10. From the
PCM-Code screen, enter the PCM Code,
then follow the screen prompts. When the process
is complete, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0),
and then turn off and disconnect the HDS.

6 of 7
03-012

REPLACING THE ECM/PCM
If you replace the ECM/PCM, you must use the HDS to
instruct the new ECM/PCM and the immobilizer control
unit-receiver to recognize the other’s unique serial
code, or the engine cannot start.
Preparation
To replace the ECM/PCM, you need these items:
• Replacement ECM/PCM
One programmed ignition key for the vehicle
• HDS with the latest software
NOTE: Make sure the market, the date, and the time
on the HDS setup screen are correct. Select the
F12

key in the upper right corner to get the
Set-up
Details
screen. Make sure Market: is set to USA.
Select the time display in the lower right corner to get
the
Date/Time Properties pop-up window. Make
sure the date and time are correct. For details, refer
to the
Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) Setup
Instructions
listed under Tool Information in ISIS.
• PCM Code (This four-digit code is available on the
iN
Immobilizer Code Inquiry.)

Procedure
1. Replace the ECM/PCM.
• Follow the procedure in the Fuel and Emissions
section of the appropriate service manual, or
• Online, enter keywords
ECM REPLACEMENT,
and select
ECM/PCM Replacement (M/T) or

(A/T)
from the list.
2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (data link connector).
3. Insert the programmed ignition key into the ignition
switch, and turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn
on the HDS.
4. At the screen prompts, enter the VIN and the
odometer reading, then verify the correct date and
time.
5. From the
System Selection Menu screen, select

IMMOBI
.
6. From the
Mode Menu screen, select Immobilizer
Setup
.
7. From the
Immobilizer Test Mode Menu screen,
select
Replace ECM/PCM.
8. From the
PCM-Code screen, enter the PCM Code,
then follow the screen prompts.
9. Do the idle learn procedure:
• Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit,
defogger, lights, etc.) are off, then start the
engine.
• Let the engine reach its normal operating
temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice).
• Let the engine idle (with throttle fully closed and
all electrical items off) for
10 minutes.
10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and then turn
off and disconnect the HDS.

03-012
7 of 7

CLIENT SITUATION AND REQUIRED ITEMS CHART
This chart lists the client situations most commonly associated with the immobilizer system, along with the required
items needed to remedy each situation. If you need to repair the system, refer to the Body Electrical section of the
appropriate service manual. If you need the HDS, make sure it is loaded with current software and that the setup
for it is correct before you use it. If you are clearing the transponder codes of lost programmed ignition keys or
replacing the immobilizer control unit-receiver, make sure you get all of the ignition keys (master and valet) for the
vehicle, along with the vehicle’s key code (if available).
Client Situation Required Items
Your client has at least one
programmed ignition key, but wants an
additional key.
Immobilizer master key blank
or
Immobilizer valet key blank
(Refer to the parts catalog for the P/N, and search by VIN for the correct
blanks.)
One available programmed ignition key (master and valet)
Suitable code key cutter and vehicle’s key code
HDS and 1st Password
Your client wants multiple programmed
ignition keys.
Immobilizer master key blank
or
Immobilizer valet key blank
(Refer to the parts catalog for the P/N, and search by VIN for the correct
blanks.)
All available programmed ignition keys (master and valet)
Suitable code key cutter and vehicle’s key code
HDS and 1st Password
Your client wants to clear the
transponder code of a lost programmed
ignition key.
All available programmed ignition keys (master and valet)
HDS and 1st Password
Your client has lost all of the
programmed ignition keys.
Immobilizer master key blank
or
Immobilizer valet key blank
(Refer to the parts catalog for the P/N, and search by VIN for the correct
blanks.)
All available programmed ignition keys (master and valet)
Suitable code key cutter and vehicle’s key code
HDS and PCM code
The immobilizer control unit-receiver is
faulty.
Immobilizer control unit-receiver
(Refer to the parts catalog for the P/N.)
All programmed ignition keys (master and valet)
HDS and PCM Code
The ECM/PCM is faulty. Replacement ECM/PCM (Refer to the parts catalog for the P/N, and refer to
the appropriate service manual for the procedure.)
A programmed ignition key (master or valet)
HDS and PCM Code
The ignition key cylinder is faulty or
damaged.
Steering lock assembly
or
Key cylinder set (Refer to the parts catalog for the P/N.)
NOTE: If you know how to rekey locks, use the steering lock assembly, and
rekey the rest of the locks to match the new assembly. If not, and your
client does not mind needing more than one key, you can still use the steering
lock assembly. However, if your client wants all the lock cylinders to match
and you do not know how to rekey locks, use the key cylinder set.
One or more of these locks are damaged:
door(s), glove box, trunk, trunk release
handle, or rear seat trunk access.
Key cylinder set
(Refer to the parts catalog for the P/N.)
NOTE: If you know how to rekey locks, replace them individually; otherwise,
use the key cylinder set.
Old 12-11-2010, 04:25 PM
  #30  
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STARTING THE ENGINE WITHOUT A
PROGRAMMED IGNITION KEY

Anyway to get the Brake Code for my car so I can at least drive the car to the dealer instead of getting it towed?
Old 12-11-2010, 04:32 PM
  #31  
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the key has lost sync with the immobilizer, the car will crank, but not start because fuel is cut off, correct?

Maybe that battery guy knows his stuff...

Can you start the car via jumpstart?

It's possible to have a perfectly good battery, but if the battery terminals are even slightly loose, no start. Your headlights will work, stereo, A/C work, but it won't start. This happens more often that you'd imagine. I'd pull your battery terminals, clean them, and then re-tighten them. You never know...

Last edited by nfnsquared; 12-11-2010 at 04:38 PM.
Old 12-11-2010, 04:42 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by LowLow06TLNH6
AS A MATTER OF FACT I AM A TECHNICIAN.
Relax techie boy. I only asked because some techs specialize in certain areas more than another. Didn't doubt your expertise, so no need to shout.
Just like a battery guy telling the OP, it sounds like car's not getting fuel. You know what I mean. No offense intended.

Very good info by the way.
What I've been throwing at the OP is based on my own experience with the TL in more occasions than I care to remember, and it was never a matter of having the keys reprogrammed. Not once.
However that doesn't exclude the fact that It may very well be the case for him.
Old 12-11-2010, 04:47 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by nfnsquared
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the key has lost sync with the immobilizer, the car will crank, but not start because fuel is cut off, correct?

Maybe that battery guy knows his stuff...

Can you start the car via jumpstart?

It's possible to have a perfectly good battery, but if the battery terminals are even slightly loose, no start. Your headlights will work, stereo, A/C work, but it won't start. This happens more often that you'd imagine. I'd pull your battery terminals, clean them, and then re-tighten them. You never know...
That's correct. Car will crank all day, but wont start.
I have been preaching more than I cared to, about how sensitive the car is to poor batt terminal connections.

What he's dealing with is the key indicator light. What's causing it, is still hard to tell at this point. It may and may not be loss of key programming.

OP: What happens when you turn the ignition on? does the key light keep blinking or it goes off? Do all lights on the cluster turn on?
I asked this earlier, but I'm very curious to know. Hopefully you aren't dealing with what I'm dealing with right now.
Old 12-11-2010, 04:55 PM
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When the key is in the ignition it starts solid for 2 seconds and then starts flashing. It continues flashing when it's cranking.

All of the lights on the cluster are on.

Going to do a jump here in a little bit. Luckily, the rain let up.
Old 12-11-2010, 04:55 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by AaronChiles
Could it be the immobilizer fuse? If so, which one is that?
I'd assume not if you're getting the green key light....It's fuse #7 in the under dash box.

Also check fuse #19...

Last edited by nfnsquared; 12-11-2010 at 04:59 PM.
Old 12-11-2010, 05:05 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by AaronChiles
When the key is in the ignition it starts solid for 2 seconds and then starts flashing.
Hmmm. Well, here's what the ETS manual says:

"If the proper ignition key is used, the immobilizer control unit-receiver sends a coded signal to the ECM/PCM and illuminates the immoblizer system indicator LED for 2 seconds.

That makes it look like the key chip is communicating with the immobilizer receiver unit.....but not sure why it goes to flash after indicating a good signal....Check fuse #19....
Old 12-11-2010, 06:07 PM
  #37  
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Well, the ETS manual gives incomplete information. Here's what the SM says. Based on that, I agree with LowLow. Your key/s need to be reprogrammed... or you got something wrong in the immobilizer circuit...but check fuses #7 and #19 (under dash), and fuse #15 (underhood box) just for the heck of it...


Last edited by nfnsquared; 12-11-2010 at 06:14 PM.
Old 12-11-2010, 06:11 PM
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Looks like we have a winner!

Now the real question is...can I get an Acura tech to tell me that magic combination of things to do to bypass this so I can drive my car to the dealership?
Old 12-11-2010, 06:19 PM
  #39  
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Don't think so, looks like you have to have the HDS hooked up to the car....

Did you check those fuses?
Old 12-11-2010, 06:22 PM
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Fuses 7 & 19 looked good. Went through the others too and all look fine to me.

Oh well, thank goodness for AAA.


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