07 TL-S Clutch issue..
11-12-2010, 07:01 PM
#1
07 TL-S Clutch issue..
Hey,
So the clutch on my TL blew.. Was getting the clutch changed, but the mechanic said theres some spring, that usually in the clutch in other cars, but in this one its in the flywheel, thats loose. They called Acura to see if its normal, or if it needs to be changed, but the dealer they called said they didn't know. Now I'm stuck waiting till monday. If anyways knows anything, please lemme know!
FYI (I just bought the car) So the previous owner, I guess, did not know how to drive.
Sorry about the shitty quality.
The old clutch
So the clutch on my TL blew.. Was getting the clutch changed, but the mechanic said theres some spring, that usually in the clutch in other cars, but in this one its in the flywheel, thats loose. They called Acura to see if its normal, or if it needs to be changed, but the dealer they called said they didn't know. Now I'm stuck waiting till monday. If anyways knows anything, please lemme know!
FYI (I just bought the car) So the previous owner, I guess, did not know how to drive.
Sorry about the shitty quality.
The old clutch
11-12-2010, 08:08 PM
#3
whew, makes mine look like it was brand new.
Southernboy helped me out.
heres my thread on my clutch.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/take-look-slightly-abused-clutch-797628/
Heres what he had to say about mine.
the part that you're interested in is in bold.
Southernboy helped me out.
heres my thread on my clutch.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/take-look-slightly-abused-clutch-797628/
Heres what he had to say about mine.
the part that you're interested in is in bold.
Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
First, let me try to answer your questions up front.
The "wear mark" on the pressure plate contact surface appears to be a bit of scoring. Assuming the car is not being raced, the prime cause would be improper techniques such as over-revving and riding the clutch, hold the car on a hill with the clutch, and improper downshifting especially into lower gears at high engine speeds. But aggressive driving, such as racing, would be first up.
The small mark on the rim... I don't know where that may have come from. The close up of the end of a pressure plate finger looks like it has been broken off.
Some other members have complained about their clutches being stiff after a run through the gears or after a race. It almost always occurs after high RPM shifts and like you said, goes away after the clutch pedal has been pumped a few times. I have never had this happen to me but my guess is that it is primarily due to the clutch delay valve causing a pressure buildup. I seem to remember reading that when this valve is removed, the problem disappears.
The clutch delay valve is supposed to protect the drive train from the shock of quick and/or aggressive shift by controlling the speed at which full engagement is obtained under these operating conditions. You will note that your friction disk has no torque dissapation springs arrayed around the center splined hug as you would expect to see. This is a solid friction disk. So shock, chattering, and shutter is controlled by the delay valve and the dual mass flywheel, not the friction disk which is generally the case. When making hard shifts at high RPMs in the higher gears, this delay value will slow full engagement enough to create some slip. So this a lot and you wear the disk and get scoring.
I would be a little concerned if your initial engagement point is higher than the factory spec. If you have a new factory OEM clutch and pressure plate then your pressure plate is self-adjusting. And the flywheel is a dual mass unit. If the initial engagement point is too high, it is quite possible that your release bearing may have a constant force being applied to it. This will prematurely wear the bearing.... kinda like resting your foot on the clutch pedal when driving. Check your clutch pedal free play (also called toe play). The factory spec for this is between .39 and .71 inches. Make sure there is sufficient free play.
As for taking it easy for the first 500 miles with a new clutch, this is not really necessary. You can just drive normally from day one if you wish, however I would go with some common sense carefulness for a bit.
The "wear mark" on the pressure plate contact surface appears to be a bit of scoring. Assuming the car is not being raced, the prime cause would be improper techniques such as over-revving and riding the clutch, hold the car on a hill with the clutch, and improper downshifting especially into lower gears at high engine speeds. But aggressive driving, such as racing, would be first up.
The small mark on the rim... I don't know where that may have come from. The close up of the end of a pressure plate finger looks like it has been broken off.
Some other members have complained about their clutches being stiff after a run through the gears or after a race. It almost always occurs after high RPM shifts and like you said, goes away after the clutch pedal has been pumped a few times. I have never had this happen to me but my guess is that it is primarily due to the clutch delay valve causing a pressure buildup. I seem to remember reading that when this valve is removed, the problem disappears.
The clutch delay valve is supposed to protect the drive train from the shock of quick and/or aggressive shift by controlling the speed at which full engagement is obtained under these operating conditions. You will note that your friction disk has no torque dissapation springs arrayed around the center splined hug as you would expect to see. This is a solid friction disk. So shock, chattering, and shutter is controlled by the delay valve and the dual mass flywheel, not the friction disk which is generally the case. When making hard shifts at high RPMs in the higher gears, this delay value will slow full engagement enough to create some slip. So this a lot and you wear the disk and get scoring.
I would be a little concerned if your initial engagement point is higher than the factory spec. If you have a new factory OEM clutch and pressure plate then your pressure plate is self-adjusting. And the flywheel is a dual mass unit. If the initial engagement point is too high, it is quite possible that your release bearing may have a constant force being applied to it. This will prematurely wear the bearing.... kinda like resting your foot on the clutch pedal when driving. Check your clutch pedal free play (also called toe play). The factory spec for this is between .39 and .71 inches. Make sure there is sufficient free play.
As for taking it easy for the first 500 miles with a new clutch, this is not really necessary. You can just drive normally from day one if you wish, however I would go with some common sense carefulness for a bit.
Last edited by justnspace; 11-12-2010 at 08:12 PM.
11-13-2010, 06:38 AM
#4
Registered Member
"Hey,
So the clutch on my TL blew.. Was getting the clutch changed, but the mechanic said theres some spring, that usually in the clutch in other cars, but in this one its in the flywheel, thats loose. They called Acura to see if its normal, or if it needs to be changed, but the dealer they called said they didn't know. Now I'm stuck waiting till monday. If anyways knows anything, please lemme know!
FYI (I just bought the car) So the previous owner, I guess, did not know how to drive."
Now that's scary... the dealer (hopefully their service department) didn't know the make up of the clutch assembly on one of their own models? Wow.
First of all, can you explain what you mean when you said, "So the clutch on my TL blew"? From the gist of your post, I would guess your flywheel is the part the let go. And the fact that your mechanic did not know anything about the clutch on a 3G TL tells me he's never worked on one before - at least on the clutch. Be careful here. Most likely you are going to need all four components (friction disk, pressure plate, flywheel, and release bearing) and probably the pilot bearing as well. Don't take chances with this. Get it done right.
BTW, how many miles are on the car and how long have you had it... in time and miles? Did you purchase it in a private sale or at a dealer?
So the clutch on my TL blew.. Was getting the clutch changed, but the mechanic said theres some spring, that usually in the clutch in other cars, but in this one its in the flywheel, thats loose. They called Acura to see if its normal, or if it needs to be changed, but the dealer they called said they didn't know. Now I'm stuck waiting till monday. If anyways knows anything, please lemme know!
FYI (I just bought the car) So the previous owner, I guess, did not know how to drive."
Now that's scary... the dealer (hopefully their service department) didn't know the make up of the clutch assembly on one of their own models? Wow.
First of all, can you explain what you mean when you said, "So the clutch on my TL blew"? From the gist of your post, I would guess your flywheel is the part the let go. And the fact that your mechanic did not know anything about the clutch on a 3G TL tells me he's never worked on one before - at least on the clutch. Be careful here. Most likely you are going to need all four components (friction disk, pressure plate, flywheel, and release bearing) and probably the pilot bearing as well. Don't take chances with this. Get it done right.
BTW, how many miles are on the car and how long have you had it... in time and miles? Did you purchase it in a private sale or at a dealer?
11-13-2010, 07:41 AM
#5
Not familiar with the DMF in the Acura, but with most, the damper springs are held tightly in place by bushings or metal retainers. Take a close look at the spring to see if any object is inside and look at the others to see the spring "retainers". If it is fractured on the loose spring, I'd purchase another flywheel.
Just looked up the price for the TLS flywheel, glad I was sitting down, $795 list $596 net.
Just looked up the price for the TLS flywheel, glad I was sitting down, $795 list $596 net.
Last edited by Turbonut; 11-13-2010 at 07:53 AM.
11-13-2010, 08:17 AM
#6
LiQuiDFleX81
i just got a flywheel for my 04 6spd TL,, and it cost $245 shipped to my door,, do your research and you'll find like i did, i got mine from Basiccarparts.com
11-13-2010, 12:45 PM
#8
"Hey,
So the clutch on my TL blew.. Was getting the clutch changed, but the mechanic said theres some spring, that usually in the clutch in other cars, but in this one its in the flywheel, thats loose. They called Acura to see if its normal, or if it needs to be changed, but the dealer they called said they didn't know. Now I'm stuck waiting till monday. If anyways knows anything, please lemme know!
FYI (I just bought the car) So the previous owner, I guess, did not know how to drive."
Now that's scary... the dealer (hopefully their service department) didn't know the make up of the clutch assembly on one of their own models? Wow.
First of all, can you explain what you mean when you said, "So the clutch on my TL blew"? From the gist of your post, I would guess your flywheel is the part the let go. And the fact that your mechanic did not know anything about the clutch on a 3G TL tells me he's never worked on one before - at least on the clutch. Be careful here. Most likely you are going to need all four components (friction disk, pressure plate, flywheel, and release bearing) and probably the pilot bearing as well. Don't take chances with this. Get it done right.
BTW, how many miles are on the car and how long have you had it... in time and miles? Did you purchase it in a private sale or at a dealer?
So the clutch on my TL blew.. Was getting the clutch changed, but the mechanic said theres some spring, that usually in the clutch in other cars, but in this one its in the flywheel, thats loose. They called Acura to see if its normal, or if it needs to be changed, but the dealer they called said they didn't know. Now I'm stuck waiting till monday. If anyways knows anything, please lemme know!
FYI (I just bought the car) So the previous owner, I guess, did not know how to drive."
Now that's scary... the dealer (hopefully their service department) didn't know the make up of the clutch assembly on one of their own models? Wow.
First of all, can you explain what you mean when you said, "So the clutch on my TL blew"? From the gist of your post, I would guess your flywheel is the part the let go. And the fact that your mechanic did not know anything about the clutch on a 3G TL tells me he's never worked on one before - at least on the clutch. Be careful here. Most likely you are going to need all four components (friction disk, pressure plate, flywheel, and release bearing) and probably the pilot bearing as well. Don't take chances with this. Get it done right.
BTW, how many miles are on the car and how long have you had it... in time and miles? Did you purchase it in a private sale or at a dealer?
11-13-2010, 12:55 PM
#9
Team Owner
Is a non DM flywheel an aftermarket option for the TL? Maybe an aluminum one?
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